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riding4fun
03-31-2009, 06:49 PM
How do you achieve a high stall speed. I have seen some say their stall is at 6500. How is this done? I haven't seen stall springs that high.

ecmini1
03-31-2009, 07:58 PM
One way is cut weight from the rear shoes on the clutch. Other is lessen the variator weights. Remember you MUST have the power in your machine to back this set up.

bulldogfallon
03-31-2009, 08:14 PM
The clutch springs are not rated at a total RPM stall and other variables affect the stall as well.

Clutch weight plays a huge role in the stall along with belt length.

Since you are dealing with ratios the longer the belt the higher it could sit on the rear pulley allowing the motor to turn more rpms before the rear pulley generates rpms to engage the clutch, which is affected by the torque spring/roller combo which can allow the belt to dive into the rear pulley or stay at the top of the rear pulley sooner/later.


We like adjustable clutches like the Stage 6 unit for a few reasons:

Tuning Ability (spring assortment, weights in/out etc)
Ease of Maintenance
Clutch Shoe Springs (in/out easy--not vise or awl)
Cost Effective
Parts are readily available

The adjustable part allows you to preload the clutch shoes springs to fine tune your stall.

If you go with lighter rollers you may forfeit belt travel, so be careful using this method.

We determine what stall we want....then pick the torque spring and roller combo and then watch the the belt in regards to the clutch engagement---Where is the belt on the rear pulley when the clutch engages??

If it dives in before the clutch engages you are starting in 2nd gear basically....so what do most do? They throw more stall...which masks the fact that they are really losing low gear.

You need to start with an idea of what roller/torque spring set up will work, but if your belt dives too early we add more spring

If the motor allows you can actually drop the clutch rpm engagement and get a better launch and reduce cvt wear (heat/slippage, etc)...

Call me if you have any questions..

Hope this helps

riding4fun
04-01-2009, 05:01 PM
Thanks for the replies.

Here is what has me baffled. I was using a koso variator w/3.5 rollers and a hit clutch with 1000ztr spring. The motor was rippin.

After I overheated it, the motor was sent back to motor builder and a new ring was put in (said that was the only thing wrong)

Motor was put back in with same set up and now can't get out of it's own way. This is what makes me think it is motor related and not clutch/ variator related.

I will explore all avenues this weekend. Since I dont have any rollers in the 2 to 3 range, could I put 3 5's in to average 2.5 and leave the other 3 open as long as they are spaced right. This will at least point me in the right direction.

hotquads1
04-01-2009, 05:47 PM
you could just bump up to a 1500 ztr spring and not have to fool 2.5 roller weight .
marc

riding4fun
04-01-2009, 05:48 PM
Originally posted by hotquads1
you could just bump up to a 1500 ztr spring and not have to fool 2.5 roller weight .
marc

Marc,

I tried that also.

Thanks

bignasty
04-01-2009, 06:48 PM
With that light of a roller, I think your going to burn up your belt. There wont be enough rotational enertia to collapse the rear spring all the way down. Its gotta be something with the engine and not the clutch. :) :)