c.sparks says no to the timing key on my 416. anyone ignored this.lol

[Dathon Lawler]

i'm currently pushing the limits with my motor. if i rev too high i'll float my valves. i do have the h.cam. 2 and i have floated my valves on two occasions. no, i don't have a rev box.
no i don't have over sized studs. i am not sure if i'll create too much compression and float the valves.....blablabla. you know what i mean if your a motor head. anyone tried this so far with a similiar setup?

[brian76708]

uh if your not running any higher rpms then stock how r u floating your valves.

[crxjarred]

ive herd that u can use it on the 406 and 416 but not so good on the the 426 and so on but not sure dont see why it would be a problem

[BossHogg420]

high compression is why u cant run it on big bores....keep it under 11

[BossHogg420]

high compression is why u cant run it on big bores....keep it under 11

[Dangerous400EX]

excessive compression does not float valves, weak valve springs and high rpms does, along with valves that are out of adjustment

I would like to know why you are floating valves too if your not going past the stock rev limiter. Mine sees it from time to time it will be pulling WOT and hit either softer sand or a small bump and tag it for a second or less when the rear breaks free. My friend bounced his off the limiter for a few seconds messing around to show it wont do any harm. He did it all the time and no problems. They made the rev limiter there for a reason its the safe limit to rev to with stock valve train. Usually you shouldnt have a problem with just a stage 1 or 2 cam.

[drew416ex]

Originally posted by Dangerous400EX
excessive compression does not float valves, weak valve springs and high rpms does, along with valves that are out of adjustment

X2. Get some kibblewhite springs, i promis they wont float then

[Dathon Lawler]

well i didn't disclose this info out of shamefull disregards to engine building.
i didn't clay the piston to check valve clearance when i originally rebuilt my motor, and i upgraded to a hotcam 2.
well when i very recently took off my jug to repair a stud. i cleaned off the top of the piston to find an indentation from the valve on the exhaust. but i always do my valves from the hotc. specs. i figured since it ran an entire season like that it wouldn't hurt to reassemble anyway. well this time when i put the bike together. (the stud was the front. closest to the exhaust where i was losing compression, i had to hele-coil it.) so now i was running correctly for the first time. and i took off through a field and when i hit the top of a gear, it was like 4th or 5th. it just reved up high out of no where and i lost power. it went back to normal after i let off. but it was the first time i ever floated a valve so i am not sure if that was even it. but back to the issue of the advance key. if this makes the compression rise and then i'm riding and float the valve. what will happen. or will it be no different than before cause.....(someone correct me if needed) the advance key won't change anything mechanically since it just tells your plug to fire earlier. and regardless of how i am thinking, why would c.sparks tell me not to run a key in the 416. sooooo....
the one and only question.
.............has anyone ran an advance key with a 416.

and on a small note. i realize what floats the valves. but nobody mentioned what will happen if i raise the timing and compression and float them.

[barton1398]

They (curtis sparks) will tell you not to run that advanced timing key with ANY mods done to your engine. My advice would be to do away with that key put the stock key back in and spend 80 bucks for a BIG GUN cdi box and you will be amazed how that box will wake that 400 up.

[Dathon Lawler]

i haven't went to c.sparks key yet. i don't understand how the high revs work. is it more power all around or does it just raise your rev limit? cause i don't really enjoy the sound of hitting the limiter, it just sounds unhealthy.

Originally posted by barton1398
They (curtis sparks) will tell you not to run that advanced timing key with ANY mods done to your engine. My advice would be to do away with that key put the stock key back in and spend 80 bucks for a BIG GUN cdi box and you will be amazed how that box will wake that 400 up.

I LOL @ you. Your completely wrong and giving not so great info. They even say on the website works great with aftermarket cams. Call them up and talk to them they will tell you its fine with other pistons to them 12.5:1 is what they meant by high compression. The timing key would blow the rev box away all day. Rev box will just make floating the valves easier and the timing advance is so small on it... waste of money. They tell you not to run with big bores because of the extra heat. 10° advance raises the temperatures in the combustion chamber 70 - 100° C. If you research spark plugs the next colder plug would be for someone running in that range. Now the key is 6° advance so the heat isnt as much but a colder plug still works great no fouling. Higher compression motors or big bores should be running a colder plug.

[Dathon Lawler]

thank you flewbyu352!!!! that is enough said that makes me comfortable enough to go ahead and buy the key. and thanks for explaining that so well. i'm gonna order it but do you have a ball park figure of what cold of plug would be sufficient. i do burn 110 oct. but just to be on the safe side i never let it idle. (unless of course i am warming up.)
thanks again.