clutch kits ...which one?

[sandalanalyst]

hey guys, i got a used 2000 400ex a couple months ago, snows goin and i keep gettin more chance to screw around on it, but... noticed today my clutch is slipping bad under heavy load... i bought it used, but im assuming it probably has all stock components in there... kid said it had the 440 kit... but.. who knows, now, if the clutch is all oem parts... i should probably replace all disks? i just dont know what to go with,, there are a few on ebay, new.. but theres the dirt racer by ebc.. i think. oem, a few others also, i dont have to go with ebay.. but...what would be my best bet? i gotta keep it under $150ish..? also, i just changed my oil, got redline 30wt. full synthetic, would that affect it? the clutch was actin wierd before i changed the oil though, sometimes when you would start to let it out in first, it would be like you let it too much, but in all reality u didnt move it like that, like grabbing really hard sometimes outta nowhere.. any ideas would help i wanna be ready for the summer.. thanks guys in advance.

[randelator]

barnett dirt digger is the best period, dont go cheap with clutch,after all..the clutch is wath get your power to the ground!!

[sandalanalyst]

i was wondering if my basket would be ok.. i was reading reviews of a clutch on RM's site lookin at ebc and tusk.. actually the tusk had really good reviews for a cheap clutch.. but i will go with the dirt digger prolly, worth a shot.. but this one guy kept loosing his plates, and said his basket was toast... is there a good way to tell if mines bad when i get it apart?... i dont wanna make the same mistake as him.. lol

[sandalanalyst]

also this oil that i just put in is redline 30 wt. synthetic, very expensive almost 60 bucks for a gallon, i have enough to do another change with new clutch.. but this is ok to run this synthetic in my wheeler? what i understand its THE BEST.... but ive read of synthetic not being good for wet clutch? any truth to this? id hate to think i wasted money on that oil....

[honda400ex2003]

I have the tusk from RM and it has held up for a year now. I have not had any problems or anything with my 416 on the ice or racing my buddies alittle bit or anything. Steve

[Sanddraging28]

the only clutch i buy is the hinson 8 plate kit. its only $100. its the only clutch i have found that handles the abuse of drag races .

your clutch basket should be alright, just check it for scoring and discoloration.

[sandalanalyst]

well i dont drag, but i do ride hard, i hear the hinson 8 plate is good too, since it has the 440 kit i hear its best.. but will the hinson 8 plate fit in a stock basket? and where can i get it.. link?

[Sanddraging28]

i am not sure if the 8 kit plate will fit in the stock basket....hinson also has a 7 plate kit..its just as good, i have it in my 416..you can buy it online from hinson

www.hinsonracing.com

[NacsMXer]

There is no subsitute for OEM Honda fibers and steels if you want the clutch to last the longest. If you want to save a little money go aftermarket but it won't last near as long.

I have a Hinson 8 plate kit in mine, and as far as I know you need the Hinson basket, pressure plate, and inner hub for the 8 fibers to fit in there. Costs quite a bit for the full setup but it's definitely worth it. For a much cheaper option I would suggest GT Thunder's 8 plate clutch kit. It uses a machined stock inner hub in order to accept the 8th plate. Comes with HD springs too, it's a pretty good deal IMO for a true 8 plate setup...check it out here: http://www.gtthunder.com/400EXClutchKit.html

[sc400ex_rider]

heres the sparks 8 plate kit and it fits the stock basket. i think these are just 250r fiber and steel plates.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=200316671535

[brian76708]

i just put in a ebc clutch kit with hd springs so far so good, but time will tell how good.

[Dathon Lawler]

haven't seen anyone say anything yet so i will. i would NOT use the synthetic unless somewhere on the label it says that it's ok for wet clutches. if you ask anyone of us that ride 200 days out of the year what to use, i wouldn't be saying the most expensive prod. on the market. i have ran maxim, honda, spectro, hell i don't drink it so i can't tell the difference. but all the oils i just mentioned are safe for wet clutch 4-stroke motors.

[400ex28]

OEM

[Sanddraging28]

cant go wrong with honda HP4... its all i use

[honda400ex2003]

valvoline 10w40 or pennsoil 10w40. Whatever my dad gets. I used some 20w50 for a while but it was too thick for the cold mornings and such in wisconsin. steve

[mittman]

I thought it was alright to use pretty much any kind of oil out there as long as it didnt say engery conserving on it? I use honda's oil plus I get a discount from them so it's a pretty cheap oil change.

[sc400ex_rider]

Originally posted by mittman
I thought it was alright to use pretty much any kind of oil out there as long as it didnt say engery conserving on it? I use honda's oil plus I get a discount from them so it's a pretty cheap oil change.

Ya i heard that too, the other thing is that they started leaving out the phosphates in auto oil to reduce acid rain. phosphate's are a slippery substance that high reving motorcycle engines like. you also have the anti foaming additives in motorcycle oils although i dont think that matters as much on the ex cause its a dry sump engine and pulls the oil from the bottom of the tank. then you have motor gurus like mikey dunlap here in the articles section that recommend straight SAE40 wt for racing engines which is basicly lawn mover oil cause it still has the phosphates in it and high film strength. alot of people use the rotella oil for heavy equipment it also has the phosphates still in it. some people on here swear by the royal purple synthetic well YESTERDAY i called the honda shop and ask if they carried it and they said no that royal purple dont make a motorcycle oil so that might be a problem if it energy conserving. the synthetic motorcycle oil is $13-16 a quart so its all a trade off of price verses quality. if you change it all the time you could get away with the cheaper cycle oil if you change it less ofter use the synthetic oil. that being said i copied this from the MICKEY DUNLAP "articles" section and what add is on the top and left? a Royal purple ad so im going to click on it and read what they got LOL

~~~~UPDATE I JUST GOT OFF THE PHONE WITH ROYAL PURPLE ALL ROYAL PURPLE OILS ARE WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE~~~~~~~
they also make a max cycle that out performs there auto oil.

http://www.atvriders.com/articles/askmickey1.html

NJ300ex asks;
How do you feel about porting and when do you feel it is necessary? When would you recommend full race porting? Do you recommend play porting(cleanup port) and when?

Also:

What oil do you recommend and what do you use on your race machines? Do you use oil based, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic?

answer;

Depending on what model you have, port and flow work can benefit most motors. The 300EX actually has a 250X head on it which has small valves even for a 250 let alone anything bigger. Port and flow work on this machine, even with stock size valves, will benefit greatly. When you go to port the head on it and you find it has bad intake valves (which most will) it would benefit you to go to a big valve port and flow for an extra $100 or so (plus valves which you have to buy anyway) from a reputable engine builder. The 400EX on the other hand has very little gain in power from doing a mild port job with standard valves on a 416 motor or smaller. You won't see a difference until you get into a 440 engine or bigger going to a big valve head on this one. For most trail riders, the stock head will work fine. If you run in the higher RPM's and have a bigger carberator then the big valve head will benefit greatly.

I see a lot of motors run on everything from 10/30 automotive oil to full synthetics and straight weight performance oils. I personally like a straight 40 weight oil most of the time except for on frozen lake beds where the wind chill factor can cause the oil to thicken up and cause the engine to cold seize. I experienced this the first time I raced for Team Honda at Lake George back in 1983. I have seen full synthetics (Mobile One 15/50, Amsoil 15/50 and Red Line 15/50) work very well with motors that run OEM clutch plates and heavy duty clutch springs. Mike Penland used to run it in his 435 Wolverine with an automatic clutch with no problems. I stay away from multi-grade 10/40's and 20/50's because the polimers it takes to change the oil from the light weight to the heavier tends to brake down the film strength and not give as good of protection as the straight weight oil. We personally run a Shaffer's straight 40 oil (same thing I used when I raced for Powroll) but you can use Valvoline or Kendall and it will be easier to acquire from your local auto parts store. Most of the time you will have to order in a case of it unless you are in an area that has a lot of auto racing and then they may stock it.