View Full Version : Jetting for lid removal only?
BULLET99Z28
03-12-2009, 03:12 PM
The 03 I got last fall has the lid removed. When I changed the float needle I cleaned the carb and noticed it was jetted factory(38/148). I wont have a slip on for a while, so while I was at the dealer today I got a 40/150 set, since I read on here that these bikes are a little lean anyway. Just started it and rode it down the street and it seems to run ok, not sure if its a tad rich, a/f screw is just a hair past 2.25 turns out. Does this sound like an ok setup to run? 30 degrees here in Iowa today if that helps, i just want it to run good this spring,summer. Thanks
Homerx
03-12-2009, 05:54 PM
Probably good just check your plug. gl
BULLET99Z28
03-13-2009, 01:39 PM
bump
Wheelie
03-13-2009, 09:42 PM
The 40/150 combo sounds right for your setup.
dave4881
03-19-2009, 09:19 PM
Originally posted by BULLET99Z28
The 03 I got last fall has the lid removed. When I changed the float needle I cleaned the carb and noticed it was jetted factory(38/148). I wont have a slip on for a while, so while I was at the dealer today I got a 40/150 set, since I read on here that these bikes are a little lean anyway. Just started it and rode it down the street and it seems to run ok, not sure if its a tad rich, a/f screw is just a hair past 2.25 turns out. Does this sound like an ok setup to run? 30 degrees here in Iowa today if that helps, i just want it to run good this spring,summer. Thanks
Going from a 148 to a 150 mainjet isn't much of a change. Once you get a slip on or full exhaust, try a (Keihin) 160 or 165. You will need to open up the airbox also. The engine is an air pump, bigger exhaust = bigger intake = more fuel (larger mainjet) = more power. I would recommend a #42 pilot right away to improve cold starting and make sure you're not "lean". Lean engines run hot. Heat kills metal parts.
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