Subs, boxes, and amps.

[Zakradu398]

I am new to this and looking to get 2 15" subwoofers. The subs i am looking at are 15" Kicker 05CVR154 and the amp is a nitro bmx-486 which is a 2000w. With the subs, what do the ohms mean?

If there is something else for around the same money that are better quality, please let me know.

I am also looking to build my own sealed box. Where can i find dimensions for 2 15"s in one box?

links:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3411_Kicker+05CVR154.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2717_Nitro+BMW-486.html#

Ohms are the resistance. 05CVR154 I dont know what the 05 means but CVR is the Kicker Comp VR Series, 15 is the size, and 4 is the Ohm. I have 2 CVR 12's 2 Ohm and they will pound! Your better off with 1 Kicker 15" L7 Solobaric rather than 2 15" CVR. You need atleast 1.8 cubic feet per sub in a sealed box. Like I said though 1 15" Solobaric L7 is equal to 2 15" CVR. You will take up much less space with just 1.

You can find out all the specs at kicker.com

[XCRacer236]

check out soundsolutionsaudio.com A LOT of useful info over there. and plenty of guys that will help you. i would stay away form square subs, since the cone is bigger it puts more force onto the motor to push it, and causes too much stress, causing premature sub failure.

that amp is too much for that sub anyway. im guessing its 1000 watts per channel, and that sub can only handle 500.

[Zakradu398]

Originally posted by CaseDawg350
check out soundsolutionsaudio.com A LOT of useful info over there. and plenty of guys that will help you. i would stay away form square subs, since the cone is bigger it puts more force onto the motor to push it, and causes too much stress, causing premature sub failure.

that amp is too much for that sub anyway. im guessing its 1000 watts per channel, and that sub can only handle 500.

I believe each sub have a max output of 1000w

[XCRacer236]

subs dont have outputs. and if you put the PEAK rating into a sub it will blow in no time flat. you have to go by the RMS rating, thats for daily. PEAK is just for one time for a short amount of time that the sub can take before it will fail.

[Kickstarts-suck]

Ok in 05CVR154 the 05 mean year 2005,then CVR, 15 is 15", 4 means 4ohm.

With 2 4ohm subs you will want to run a 1ohm load.

I feel Kicker is the best for the money.

I would deff go with a ported box with 2 15s. The bigger the better.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVR15-15-Comp-VR-DVC-SUB-WOOFER-07CVR154-D4-new_W0QQitemZ200316053951QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Su bwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item200316053951&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A15|39%3A1|240%3A1318

^^^ I bought my L7 from them and had no problems. That one is the 07 version.

For an amp I would run a Hifonics BXi-1206D. They are stable at 1ohm and great for the money.

[ben300]

Originally posted by CaseDawg350
check out soundsolutionsaudio.com A LOT of useful info over there. and plenty of guys that will help you. i would stay away form square subs, since the cone is bigger it puts more force onto the motor to push it, and causes too much stress, causing premature sub failure.

that amp is too much for that sub anyway. im guessing its 1000 watts per channel, and that sub can only handle 500.


completely not true about square subs...they function just as well as a round sub or a triangular sub...if you are talking about them putting stress on the sub motor i hope...this is not true as well since the engineers as kicker have designed that motor for that sub.... i hope your not talking about the vehicle engine..

you can also get an advantage wtih square subs because they require less sealed volume to opearate..i believe that l7's can operate at .86ft^3....plus if you figure the surface area of the cone, where a square 12 inch sub is 144in^2 vs a round sub that is 113.0973in^2.....so in reality, a square sub can push more air cause it has more surface area...

and to who said you need a 1ohm wiring configuration...thats not necessarily true, since 1 ohm allows more current, more heat and more distortion...its true at 1 ohm you can usually get the most from your amp, but it also can damage an amp qucker, and cause more distortion....if you can get an am to run 1000 watts rms combined for the two subs at 2 ohm...then you may be better off....if buy a high current amp...which they dont make much of and are expenisve considering they are competitive amplifiers..then you can run 1 ohm with no problems with the amplifier..

i have an old adio art high current amp..one of the best high current amplifiers that i have ever used..

[ben300]

Originally posted by Kickstarts-suck
For an amp I would run a Hifonics BXi-1206D. They are stable at 1ohm and great for the money.

great amplifiers...well worth the money....

just watch that you dont kill your battery

[F-16Guy]

I'm getting ready to build a system, and I'll probably be using all older stuff. I've always liked Soundstream Reference and older Phoenix Gold amps, and I'd like to get a pair of older Kicker Competition or Orion XTR3 12" subs. I like JL Audio, but their older stuff is still getting top dollar. There are classic subs that sound just as good for a fraction of the price.

I've always thought the stuff from the 90's was really well made. PPI, Kicker, Orion, JL Audio, Phoenix Gold, MB Quart, etc., were all putting out some really nice stuff back then. You can find some killer deals on eBay if you search for "old school amp" (or subs, or whatever).

I think that if you know what to look for, you can get a much better quality system for a lot less money by buying some nice, older components.

[ben300]

Originally posted by F-16Guy
[B]I've always thought the stuff from the 90's was really well made. PPI, Kicker, Orion, JL Audio, Phoenix Gold, MB Quart, etc., were all putting out some really nice stuff back then. You can find some killer deals on eBay if you search for "old school amp" (or subs, or whatever).[B]

this is true...alot of the stuff made in the early 90's through mid to late, was made exceptionally well and is of real quality. there was alot of really great audiophile quality stuff made in that era....


this can really be seen in terms of amplifiers from that era...they may not be tricked out with alll the new bells and whistles of new amps but in terms of power delivery and distortion, the high current amps from that era are far superior to most...hence i say MOST...class D amps manufactured today....

no granted...there werent super subs at the tiemt aht could hand 10k watts rms, which is jst insane, but they had subs and speakers of great sound quality..thats why older jl audio subs go for so much money. their older lower end stuff is far superioor i believe, in sound quality to new low end jl audio stuff....now the new w7's adn w6's...those are monsters...

you can not go wrong with using older audio equipment...however...you always have to watch buying something used...

[F-16Guy]

Yep, definitely "buyer beware", but you can get some killer stuff at Walmart prices! I think the only piece I would want to be more modern is the head unit. I know that powered external crossovers are generally better, but I love the ease of having the controls in the deck. My last Pioneer Premier deck had all of the x-over and sub controls plus a parametric EQ.

[ben300]

Originally posted by F-16Guy
Yep, definitely "buyer beware", but you can get some killer stuff at Walmart prices! I think the only piece I would want to be more modern is the head unit. I know that powered external crossovers are generally better, but I love the ease of having the controls in the deck. My last Pioneer Premier deck had all of the x-over and sub controls plus a parametric EQ.

heck...all hte pioneers pretty much have the 16 band equalizers...not just the premier models..thats whats great about the pioneer headunits...you can also with the better models..focus hte sound to different regions of the car...its a pretty trick option they come with..

.i may be biased towards pioneer...i think they are the best out there because of their quality, functionality, tunability adn sound that they produce...hter are some others out ther too...alpine, eclipse, some kenwoods and sony's...but i would never skip the money on a good head unit

[F-16Guy]

Yeah, I've always loved Pioneer decks. I really like the OEL displays and how the menus are set up; they're very intuitive. I've had a couple Sonys and a Kenwood, but they just didn't feel or sound the same for me.

[ben300]

Originally posted by F-16Guy
Yeah, I've always loved Pioneer decks. I really like the OEL displays and how the menus are set up; they're very intuitive. I've had a couple Sonys and a Kenwood, but they just didn't feel or sound the same for me.

ya the organic EL displays are completely tits....


just one of the best products out there imo..


im currently running a 4 year old pioneer wiht the organic el display in my one vehicle...and then im running a kenwood excelon hooked up to one sub in my truck and hte pioneer is jsut way better, more adjustable, and sounds better imo

[Zakradu398]

Originally posted by Kickstarts-suck
Ok in 05CVR154 the 05 mean year 2005,then CVR, 15 is 15", 4 means 4ohm.

With 2 4ohm subs you will want to run a 1ohm load.

I feel Kicker is the best for the money.

I would deff go with a ported box with 2 15s. The bigger the better.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVR15-15-Comp-VR-DVC-SUB-WOOFER-07CVR154-D4-new_W0QQitemZ200316053951QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Su bwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item200316053951&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A15|39%3A1|240%3A1318

^^^ I bought my L7 from them and had no problems. That one is the 07 version.

For an amp I would run a Hifonics BXi-1206D. They are stable at 1ohm and great for the money.

i see that that amp is 1 channel. I'm sure that 1 15" will be plenty. Now, its a 1000w sub, so running 1 ohm is 1200w, is that bad for the sub?

EDIT: is there any advantage in getting the newer 1208D?

[ben300]

Originally posted by Zakradu398
i see that that amp is 1 channel. I'm sure that 1 15" will be plenty. Now, its a 1000w sub, so running 1 ohm is 1200w, is that bad for the sub?

EDIT: is there any advantage in getting the newer 1208D?

no it really wont hurt the sub...concidering that unless you get the 2ohm version of the 15" cvr...your not gonna hve problems with that..cause if you wire the the 4ohm version in parallel to the amp..it will only be delivering current at 2 ohms..

i wouls steel clear personaly of buing the dual 2ohm cvr's or any sub similar because of the fact aht if you wire it in parallel, it will be running at 1 ohm...and if you wire 2 of the subs in parrellel, they will be running at .5ohm's..which there are not many amplifiers that the average person out there is gonna buy that can handle that ammount of current flow...

plus if you buy the 4 ohm version, that gives you alot of wiring options wiht many ohter amplifiers and system set ups...

you have to look at it this way...you want to run your subs on rms, not peak power....rms is way more importatn...those 15's are 500 watts rms, so if you have a sub wired to an amp, that in taht configuration can give the sub 600 watts rms, then all you would do is adjust your gain slightly down a little..and then turn your bass boost down a little....this will then not harm your sub..

[ben300]

Originally posted by Kickstarts-suck
I would deff go with a ported box with 2 15s. The bigger the better.

this not always true...i have seen 3 tens in the correct enclosure powered correctly smoke the **** out of 2 15's.....

its all about application...

also..the 05 at the begining 05CVR15 is the generation of the sub..it does conicide wiht a year, but that is the year taht generation of sub came out...

[Zakradu398]

so with the rms at 500 and peak 1000, it would be safe at around 600 then if i were to get an amp with 2 channels and keep 2ohms at 600w per channel? such as this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17623_Sound+Storm+SSL+F2.1200.html

[Zakradu398]

Originally posted by Zakradu398
so with the rms at 500 and peak 1000, it would be safe at around 600 then if i were to get an amp with 2 channels and keep 2ohms at 600w per channel? such as this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17623_Sound+Storm+SSL+F2.1200.html

does this make sense or am i speaking nonsense?

Alright so I have (2) 2 Ohm speakers and a single channel amp. This is how they are wired the wires run into eachother. Is it still 2ohm?

[Kickstarts-suck]

Originally posted by Zakradu398
so with the rms at 500 and peak 1000, it would be safe at around 600 then if i were to get an amp with 2 channels and keep 2ohms at 600w per channel? such as this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17623_Sound+Storm+SSL+F2.1200.html

Dont ever worry about the peak wattage. RMS is what really matters. so the CVR15s are 500rms each. Amps can be turned down. Like im running a 1500rms amp to my 750 rms sub. So if an amp says 1000 rms you can run it on even a 300rms sub just have to turn it down some.

Kicker subs take a beating so even if you did want to put 600rms to a 15" cvr it would handle it great.

I would not go with those low end amps you are linking us to. They will overheat easily and put out "dirty bass" Plus that amp is an A/B class amp for Highs not Lows like subs need. You want a class D amp.

Running 2 4ohm 15" cvrs you will need an amp that is 1ohm stable so the Hifonics amp I linked you to will be perfect.

[<DRS>GPF]

Originally posted by FlewByU352
Alright so I have (2) 2 Ohm speakers and a single channel amp. This is how they are wired the wires run into eachother. Is it still 2ohm?



no..
you have them wired in a "parallel" fashion, which will leave you with 1-ohm of impedance at whatever watts theyre rated for.

Originally posted by <DRS>GPF
no..
you have them wired in a "parallel" fashion, which will leave you with 1-ohm of impedance at whatever watts theyre rated for.

I think that would be bad. The amp I believe was only rated to 2 & 4ohms. The guy that I bought it off of said he bought the amp that size so you couldnt blow the speakers. You might not blow the speakers but what about the amp? He had it for a while and when I tested it out everything worked fine but that was maybe a half hour or less of running time. Should I just try it and if it blows then buy a better amp? I doubt this amp could sell for much its a Bazooka ELA500.1. 500watts max at 4ohm, 750watts max at 2ohm I believe and each speaker is 2ohm 400watt RMS. I dont know since its paralelled it makes it running a 800watt RMS or you dont add them and its just 400watt RMS.

[ben300]

Originally posted by Kickstarts-suck
I would not go with those low end amps you are linking us to. They will overheat easily and put out "dirty bass" Plus that amp is an A/B class amp for Highs not Lows like subs need. You want a class D amp.

Running 2 4ohm 15" cvrs you will need an amp that is 1ohm stable so the Hifonics amp I linked you to will be perfect.

you can run subs from a a/b class amplier...sure they are more suited for running highs andmids but as long as there is a low pass option on the cross over on the amplifier...you would be more than fine running each sub to one channel at two ohms on an amplifier...a class D amplifier does not mean it is striclty for sub woofers....class D is a form of circuitry and how it draws current from you vehicle and then delivers it to your subs...this is different from class a/b amps because of the high wattage capabilities that can be achieved with a class D..sure yes most of these amplifiers are mone channel...but you can see them as multi channels as well.

the problem with the amp that you linked us to is not that it is an a/b classs amplifer adn not a d class..but the fact that a cheaper amplifier such as that...most to the time..delivers under what it is rated for...this can be accounted to because of the cheaper circuitry that is used in these amplifiers..when you use a higher end amp...such like the jl audio 1000/1 amplifer that i am running in my explorer, its circuitry is designed to deliver 1000 watts at 4,2,1, or 0.5 ohms....but when acttualy tested at maximum rms...it actually produces 1254 watts..this is because of the better circuitry used inside...

so you have to be careful buying a cheaper amplifier...cuase you may not be getting...or i can almost garantee that you ar not getting what it is rated at....

[TGW_400ex]

Originally posted by CaseDawg350
check out soundsolutionsaudio.com A LOT of useful info over there. and plenty of guys that will help you. i would stay away form square subs, since the cone is bigger it puts more force onto the motor to push it, and causes too much stress, causing premature sub failure.

that amp is too much for that sub anyway. im guessing its 1000 watts per channel, and that sub can only handle 500.

You should tell my 3 year old L7 that.

[hypersnyper6947]

I had a buddy with one 12" L7 and that thing pounded, i am a big fan of JL audio for my vehicles.

Isn't the lower the ohm the lower the base, or the sub can pick up and produce lower base with lower ohms ??

[ben300]

Originally posted by hypersnyper6947
Isn't the lower the ohm the lower the base, or the sub can pick up and produce lower base with lower ohms ??

no...the electricity applied to your subs is a signal in the form of a sign wave...you are recieveing the same base note no matter what resistance teh sub is wired or how much powe is being delivered....what an amplifier does is it increases the amplitude of that sine wave...this making the the subs cone's excursion greater moving more air, which in theory increases sound volume...

so does wiring a sub at 1 ohm vs. 4 ohms making the base deaper....no.....but incresin the power ot a sub...will increase the volume it produces..

[F-16Guy]

Yeah, you have to look at the speaker as the load device (resistor) in the circuit. It's Ohm rating is the measurement of it's resistance. Using a lower impedance speaker will convert more of the amp's output into sound. You have to be careful, though, because as you lower the amount of resistance "seen" by the amp, you get closer to what is basically a short circuit (think touching battery wires together). With less resistance, the extra current will cause the amp to heat up and eventually fail if it can't dissipate the heat fast enough.

[rbgnwa45]

You should google what you want to know.

[ben300]

Originally posted by rbgnwa45
You should google what you want to know.

or just got to a dealer/shop and pay a professional dealer

[<DRS>GPF]

fyi. Crutchfield.com has a 'buy one get one free' sale going on right now on sub speakers..

they can also answer alot of questions and clear up sub misconceptions.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nkv34bBrLro/app/product/collection/collection.aspx?cID=4771&omnews=7741018

[Kickstarts-suck]

Originally posted by <DRS>GPF
fyi. Crutchfield.com has a 'buy one get one free' sale going on right now on sub speakers..

they can also answer alot of questions and clear up sub misconceptions.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nkv34bBrLro/app/product/collection/collection.aspx?cID=4771&omnews=7741018

To bad they dont have buy one get one free Kicker CVT10s... I need 4... :chinese:

[Zakradu398]

Sorry for this, buuuutt, 2 15"s wouldnt work as im working with a jeep wrangler here so I decided that 2 10s will be plenty. Suggestions??

I also decided to go with a class d amp since thats wht some of you suggested.

[Zakradu398]

Originally posted by <DRS>GPF
fyi. Crutchfield.com has a 'buy one get one free' sale going on right now on sub speakers..

they can also answer alot of questions and clear up sub misconceptions.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nkv34bBrLro/app/product/collection/collection.aspx?cID=4771&omnews=7741018

should i go with the 10" kicker comps since its my first system?

[Zakradu398]

Originally posted by Zakradu398
Sorry for this, buuuutt, 2 15"s wouldnt work as im working with a jeep wrangler here so I decided that 2 10s will be plenty. Suggestions??

I also decided to go with a class d amp since thats wht some of you suggested.
for 2 4 ohm subs i would need a 4 ohm amp correct?

[<DRS>GPF]

Originally posted by Zakradu398
Sorry for this, buuuutt, 2 15"s wouldnt work as im working with a jeep wrangler here so I decided that 2 10s will be plenty. Suggestions??

I also decided to go with a class d amp since thats wht some of you suggested.

if youre asking me..

then on that link i posted earlier, my top 3 picks :
#1 - Kicker Comp 07C104
#2 - MTX Thunder5500 T5510-04
#3 - Rockford Fosgate P1S410

[Kickstarts-suck]

Go with the CVR 10"

They are pretty cheap. Get them on ebay brand new for like $70

If you are limited on space check out the Kicker CVT subs. They are shallow mount subs and are like 3" deep compared to 6" deep like normal 12"s

If you have the money buy the 10" Kicker L7s. They are beast.

[ben300]

Originally posted by Kickstarts-suck
Go with the CVR 10"

They are pretty cheap. Get them on ebay brand new for like $70

If you are limited on space check out the Kicker CVT subs. They are shallow mount subs and are like 3" deep compared to 6" deep like normal 12"s

If you have the money buy the 10" Kicker L7s. They are beast.


completely agreed.....shallow mount design subs open a whole new world of mounting and installation possibilities