Shifting Not So Good

[cdoskocil9]

Shifting from 1st to 2nd its very hard to get second every time anyone else experience this????

Also after it gets hott its harder to hit the other gears whats going on????

Thanks

[k4f5x0r]

change the oil first. then see if its really hard to shift. i know any quad or dirtbike ive ridden is hard to shift when it needs an oil change... that or it could be your clutch going out :ermm:

[jlrenken]

see if u can get a set of these through brp. discription
Hard to shift
The bike transmission may become hard to shift, jump out of
gear upon landing or fall into neutral. The spring that sits against
the shift pawls can slide sideways; causing less pressure on the
shift pawl. A new shift pawl with a slot has been designed and is
presently available from the Racing department with part
number 420 257 821. Please note that around the end of April
the original part number 420 257 820 will be replaced by 420
257 821. At that time, they will become available from the
dealer network and the BRP Mobile truck.

[cdoskocil9]

Thanks Bro Ill try to get one how much do you think they run ...... And I just changed the oil..... You still heading down here to ride???

[jlrenken]

so far but light chance of rain the whole week so kinda worried. were going to stay in canton tx. ill give u a ring when we are on the way. dont think they cost that much maybe 30 or so ill have to look at work tomarrow

[cdoskocil9]

Kool Thanks man how hard is the install???

We rode the track in Athens this weekend it was awesome thats not very far from Canton so we could definetly try that man.......

[dbkbushwacker]

Has anyone had the part above installed yet? My ds pops into neutral under hard acceleration and was wondering if it really fixes the problem?

[grannysleeper]

I was looking at these on the parts fiche, and noticed that the shift drum had an updated part number as well. Anyone know if it's related to this problem?

[maconu]

Any info on this would be great. I have the manual but I'm hoping someone has some pics of the correct position when installed.

The manual says to pull the engine to get to the shift pawls. Is this necesary or can you change them with the engine in the bike???

thanks
matthew

[hotshotgoal30]

luckily i have not had this problem on my 08. the neutral light propblem either. i mean and i ride wheelies shifting with no clutch 1st through third. i wonder if getting the clutch update would help?

[grannysleeper]

Here's what I found... Just replaced the pawls on mine, they're cheap, like $7 for both (you need two). I did it while I had the clutch apart for the 2009 update. It was only an extra 2 steps with the clutch apart, took me about five extra minutes to do. You do NOT have to take the motor out, just the clutch and cover assembly. Mine was hitting a false nuetral OFTEN, and sure enough, one of the pawl springs had slipped off of the pawl, and was wedged in there side ways. Haven't had a chance to go for a test ride yet due to the weather, but I'll let you know, when I do, if it makes a difference.

[grannysleeper]

Also, it's pretty easy to see how they go in if you pay attention to how the old ones come apart, you just need to fit the spring into the notch on the new pawls.

[maconu]

Thanks for the info. It looks Like I will be doing mine soon then. I just got my pawls last week.....

[maconu]

I'm going to do this tomorrow so I figured I'd look at the manual...

The only problems I see are:
1. Do I really need new gaskets if I don't tear the ones on there now?

2. I don't have a clutch spanner so is there something else I can use?

3. Is there anything tricky??


I appreciate the help. This is as far as I will have gone in an engine by myself.....

thanks!!!!!!

[grannysleeper]

Finally got some time to ride my DS after installing these, and it makes a pretty big difference. Here's what I found:

1. Most of the "gaskets" are really just big o-rings. Your odds of successfully reusing them are pretty good. The large gasket for the clutch cover is paper though, and although mine didn't rip while coming apart, the sealing "squish" is usually no longer present once these types of gaskets have been installed. I replaced them all when I did mine, (but I also replaced the clutch cover for the 2009 update), I figured the extra $30-$40 was cheap insurance for preventing an oil/coolant leak down the road.

2. I didn't have a clutch spanner either; just used an impact gun to get the cluch basket off, and the put the bike in 5th gear with the parking brake set to torque it back on. It loads the chain and suspension up when you do it this way, but it will eventually torque.

3. It's pretty straight forward, I found that if you just slide the shifter shaft out a little and rotate it down, you can access the pawls and their cover pretty easily without removing anything other than the clutch cover, basket, and the little plastic idler gear (you'll see what I mean). Just pay close attention to how everything goes, take pictures if you need to, and lay everything out in order as you take it apart. If you haven't had the 2009 clutch update, now is the time to do it. It would also be a good time to do an oil change. Oh, and make sure you have a set of Torx sockets. Most of the bolts have T-25 and T-30 size heads, with a few exceptions. Having the manual should help; I wasn't so fortunate.

[HOBS DS450]

Hey grannysleeper, could you post/pm the 09 clutch update parts list for me. I want to do this soon. Thanks!

Matt if you need any tools just let me know.

[Justwin]

I was looking at these on the parts fiche, and noticed that the shift drum had an updated part number as well. Anyone know if it's related to this problem?

No - the new shift drum only suits the 09 gearbox which has slightly thicker gears than the 08 - they are not interchangable.

They can be installed in an 08 if you change the gears too...

[grannysleeper]

Thanks Justwin, good info to know, glad i didn't miss out on anything while I had the engine apart.

Here are the parts for the 2009 clutch update, dealer list for all this stuff (less oil and antifreeze) is just over $250

Necessary parts:

703 500 742 New Hub

420 259 910 Additional Clutch Plate

420 611 666 New Clutch cover

2 Quarts of XP-S Oil and Antifreeze

Recommended Parts:

420 250 455 Shifter Oil Seal

420 430 995 Clutch Cover Paper Gasket

420 431 432 Clutch Cover O-Ring

420 431 030 Water Pump Cover O-Ring

420 430 920 Oil Filter O-Ring

420 257 821 Updated Shift Pawl, 2 Required

420 256 455 Oil Filter

Also note that the water pump has 2 seals for the shaft installed in the clutch cover, I was able to reuse these in the new clutch cover by pressing them out with a socket (saving $20). Just make sure you reinstall them facing the same direction as in the old one and with the correct spacing around the weep hole in the cover (ie: pay attention to how they come apart).

The clutch plates are to be reinstalled with a particular side facing out (referring to the chamfer on the outside edge of the plate), the new hub should come with instructions about this and where to put the extra plate.

Also, the old clutch cover requires a metal bushing which is installed in one end of the oil filter, the new one does not, so just remove the bushing if reusing the filter.

Let me know if you have any other questions.