what oil to use?

[mity4]

I'm ready to do an oil change ( I've already done several) and was wondering if I should go synthetic or simi-synthetic. Also what brand and is it available through the dealer?

[fasterblaster02]

If you have the KTM motor, you can use polaris PS-4 PLus and it is available form the dealer. I am still on my break-in period on mine and dont know a lot about these machines yet, so there may be a better oil than what I am using. Yes this is a full synthetic oil, I paid about 10 bucks a quart. I have always thought that it is not best to switch between conventional and synthetic oils on the same motor more than necessary. I hope this helps a little.

[birdman7389]

Forget all that $$. Go to wal-mart or the local auto parts store and get a gallon of Rotella 10-40 non-syn for like $12.
All the KTM guys run it in their race and trail bikes, and lots of the quad guys are catching on.

Read up on it at ktmtalk.com.....

[Outlaw212]

That's what I use in my 525 outlaw.

The owner's manuel said NOT to use the Polaris PS-4! First it says to use it but then has a note not to use it.

The Rotella 10w-40 non- synthetic or the Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic is what most guys are using.

You can buy it by the gallon at Wal-mart

[Chris525]

Rotella 5-40 syn
love it, never gonna switch

[fasterblaster02]

Originally posted by Outlaw212

The owner's manuel said NOT to use the Polaris PS-4!

That may be true but PS-4 PLUS is recommended for use. Although I have been reading about the 5w-40 Rotella T and it sounds like that is what i will get next.

[scuzz]

Guys,

Take the time out to read this page (http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html) it explains why you shouldn't use diesel oil or anything other than motorcycle oil. One of the main reasons is because of how car and diesel engine oil doesn't resist foaming (as would occur in your tranny). Keep in mind that not only does oil that is foaming not lubricate, but it also traps heat and clutch debris causing further problems.

Will other oils work? Of course they will!

It's just not the best idea for your precious baby.

[birdman7389]

Originally posted by scuzz
Guys,

Take the time out to read this page (http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html) it explains why you shouldn't use diesel oil or anything other than motorcycle oil. One of the main reasons is because of how car and diesel engine oil doesn't resist foaming (as would occur in your tranny). Keep in mind that not only does oil that is foaming not lubricate, but it also traps heat and clutch debris causing further problems.

Will other oils work? Of course they will!

It's just not the best idea for your precious baby.


Rotella is not energy conserving, there are no friction modifiers, and it does not hurt our clutches.

Lots of people run Rotella in these same KTM engines, and run them HARD. Everyone has had great results. Race teams that would tear down their engines after the season would find no wear, and the trails guys that would do the same after several years found the same.
I know this stuff works in the KTM RFS motor, and will keep using it.
I have read the site you posted before, and there is some good info there. It just seems pretty general, not specific to our usage.

[scuzz]

Check this one out:

http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf

SYNTHETICS IN THE USA ©2006
In the USA there are a few different types of synthetic base stocks used in engine oils. We will just
touch on three in this paper.
The word Synthetic is confusing; it describes a process, not a material. For example, White sand is
synthesized into glass, but glass is never called “synthetic sand”. Most people think that ALL
Synthetic oils are made of the same base, THIS IS WRONG! For most of the USA, there are mainly
Two types of synthetic oils (or as we like to say, synthetics are DESIGNER oils).
The first type is a GROUP 3. This is a Petroleum oil that is re-refined to deliver a good base oil.
The process and end product is the least expensive of the 3 types of synthetics. Actually this type of
product was considered a Petroleum oil until a recent legal battle was lost. The molecules are not as
consistent in their size as in a PAO or ESTER (mentioned below) but are better than a Group 1
and 2 petroleum oil. The advantages of the G3 are a cleaner base, a higher Viscosity index (ability
to flow) and better all around performance.
The second type is a PAO, short for POLY-ALPHA-OLEFINE -or easier to understand, it is
SYNTHESIZED PETROLEUM oil. It is refined in a special process, or in simple words
“synthesized”. It still starts out by being pumped out of the ground. PAO’s are better than regular
petroleum oil for handling heat, oxidation, low temperature startups and higher film strength.
Drawback, PAO and PETROLEUM are dynamic types of oil, you have to build up oil pressure and
have rotation before a film is produced. Better said, you have to HYDROPLANE the engine parts
like you hydroplane a car in the rain, to create a film! (Or in the case of water-skiing, you have to
build speed for the skier to get up and plane on the water) PAO’s are NOT VERY expensive
because they are made from crude oil and produced in large quantities.
The third type of synthetics is a, SYNTHETIC ESTERS. (Diester, Polyolesters, polyesters and
complex esters) Motul® uses esters in its products. ESTERS ARE MOSTLY MADE OF
VEGETABLES, minerals and animal fatty acids. (Motul’s® esters contain a lot of coconut
derivatives) Esters are much more expensive because the ingredients all have to be collected from
natural RENEWABLE resources and synthesized (a very expensive process) in smaller quantities.
Esters have all the advantages of a PAO but more of them. ESTERS CAN HANDLE HEAT
BETTER THAN PAO’s AND WHEN BURNED, ESTERS LEAVE FAR LESS (COKING)
DEPOSITS. ESTERS ARE POLAR/STATIC types of OILS and ARE ATTRACTED TO METAL
PARTS WITH AN ELECTRO-CHEMICAL BOND. THIS MEANS NO MORE METAL TO
METAL START UPS, This also means that a film is THERE BEFORE The Oil Pressure Light
Goes Out preventing Premature Ware Of High-Stressed Parts Like Cam Lobes. The Film created is
up to 5 times stronger then petroleum oil..
THE NUMBER 1 REASON TO RUN AN ESTER SYNTHETIC OIL is BOND. The Electrochemical
bond is made because the ESTER MOLECULE IS POLAR! Sort of like a refrigerator
magnet! It is attracted to metal and it sticks.
THE PAO MOLECULES ARE NEUTRAL and act like a piece of plastic placed on the Frig. They
just fall off. FYI, all commercial jet planes use an ester synthetic of some type and not a PAO! You
need to run an ester of some sort for maximum protection!
Dave Wolman 2005 1
LET’S EXPLAIN WHY HANDLING HIGHER RUNNING TEMPS IS IMPORTANT .
With petroleum oils there is a much better risk of failure from volatility problems than with
synthetics. Why?
HAVE YOU EVER BURNED BUTTER while cooking? YES, everybody has burned butter!
The running temp or maximum temp is low. When butter reaches its’ maximum running temp it
starts to evaporate (volatility) then it carbonizes and then it sticks to the metal pan. Now compare
butter to VEGETABLE OIL in which you deep fry “French fries”! The only way to heat vegetable
oil so hot as to make it carbonize, you would almost need a direct flame.
Petroleum oil is like Butter as far as handling heat! And SYNTHETICS are like
VEGETABLE oils, synthetics won‘t burn up and stick to your engine parts or go out the breather
as fast as petroleum oils will. (Remember ESTERS leave almost no DEPOSITS if they do burn)
THIS IS THE SECOND REASON to run a SYNTHETIC OIL. (Because you’re not
supposed to have extreme heat problems everyday)
BASIC TECH POINTS: RACING AND HIGH PERFORMANCE OILS (MOTUL
300V RACING SERIES ARE RATED AS SG/SH, WHILE OR HIGH
PERFORMANCE STREET OILS ARE THE NEW SJ RATED.
· Engines, especially air or oil cooled designs need lubricants that can handle higher running
temps to INCREASE VISCOSITY RETENTION, while reducing consumption and oil film
breakdown.
· High Performance engines always increase the load pressures placed upon moving components.
High lift cams and stiffer valve springs load up the lifters, rocker arms and valve ends. Newer
designs incorporate gear driven overhead cams which bring a new challenge. More internal
gearing will shares the engine oil faster. Because of that, Motul® adds more medium
EXTREME PRESSURE (EP) additives such as ZINC and a STRONG EP additive, called a
SULFURIZED ESTER to handle the shear / meshing of the engine.
1. EP additives come into play at the instant a medium extreme pressure is applied and high
temperatures are created. ZINC lays down a barrier that prevents metal to metal contact and
the SULFURIZED ESTER produces a sacrificial film that is destroyed during very strong
extreme pressures as it prevents SEIZING. EP additives are generally corrosive especially those
used in gearboxes. WE use this ESTER because it is FAR LESS CORROSIVE and more
environmentally safe than others that can do the job. (This is what those TV advertised
products forget to tell you when you see them test a ball bearing under 100,000 pounds of
pressure)
2. To explain it easier, let’s take a sandwich wrapped in plastic wrap (the EP additive
would be the plastic wrap). If you were to squeeze the sandwich you would contact the plastic
wrap with your fingers (your fingers representing the gears) and the sandwich would squish ,
however, your fingers NEVER actually made contact with the sandwich!
· Performance engines NEED A BALANCED FRICTION MODIFIER PACKAGE! So that the
ring seal stays strong, roller and ball bearings roll in the race and plain bearings have as little
drag as possible.
NOTE: The SULFURIZED ESTER is a part of this friction reduction package due to its ability to
STICK to engine parts (ferrous metals)
· Performance engines used in endurance type of competition need strong A NTI - ACID (BASE)
(TBN, total base number)!
Dave Wolman 2005 2
1. Condensation (the steam that you see coming out of your tail pipe in the morning)
which is a natural by-product of combustion in an engine. This condensation which is acidic
water, passes by the rings under compression into the crankcase and mixes with the sulfur,
SULFURIC ACID is created. ANTI-ACID (base) neutralizes the acid before it can cause any
damage.
· High revving engines need strong ANTI-FOAM ADDITIVES.
1. Higher RPM aerates the oil more.
We must pop the bubble before it causes damage! Why,
a. Foam is air, air does not lubricate: friction from metal to metal produces higher
heat and wear.
b. Foam is air; air is a better insulator then a transmitter of heat. It does not transmit
heat from hot metal parts to the oil very well or vice versa.
c. Problems - OIL PUMPS DO NOT PUMP AIR!
1. Oil pressure can DROP!
2. TEMP’S can RAISE due to inefficient heat exchange
Endurance engines NEED STRONG DISPERSANTS to suspend the combustion by-products that
are created and materials rubbed off during normal operations. If you find worn components in
your older race engine, ask yourself a question? WHERE DID THE MATERIAL GO?
a. The parts were beaten or compressed and the material is still there
b. The materials were rubbed off and washed RIGHT INTO THE OIL!!! We want the
material to stay in tiny pieces and stay mixed in the oil, so that the oil filter can do its
job. There are many devices on the market now that surround the filter with a magnet to
capture some wear metals.
· Race engines NEED A STRONG DETERGENT, WHY? Because of more heat generation (more
horsepower per ci) trying to fry the oil onto the engine parts, and added dirt being dropped into
the oil from the by-products from combustion.
· M otul SYNTHETICS C AN be mixed with MOST high quality mineral, Group 3, PAO or
ESTER synthetic oils, without major problems. Try to stay close to the viscosity range. (I.e.
10w40 mixed with 10w40). If you have mixed oils, Motul Recommend an oil change when you
get home from the Event, since the oil additives and base from our oil is now not balanced.
THESE ARE SOME OF THE MAIN ISSUES THAT MOTUL® LOOKS AT WHEN DESIGNING A
PERFORMANCE ENGINE OIL.
As discussed earlier, synthetics can handle much higher running temperatures than conventional
petroleum oils and can withstand more stress. Many people ask, so what! I don’t push my vehicle
that hard and I change oil every 1000 miles! I don’t need expensive performance oil in my car.
Dave Wolman 2005 3
This type of thinking is wrong!!!!
The question we have for you folks is a simple one?
Why do you wear a helmet, Gloves, boots, jacket and WHY do you buy INSURANCE? In case of
an accident! Right!! If within the first fifty (50) miles after an oil change, a rock hits your radiator
or the thermostat sticks, the water pump stops pumping or whatever causes a major heat problem
in your cooling system, what would you rather have in your engine? A mineral oil that acts like
butter, that burns up and evaporates very quickly and also carbonizes OR an oil that can handle
high RUNNING temps like synthetics (325°f to 367°f).
High quality oils are INSURANCE not only maintenance. The same is true about brake fluids and
gear oils.
THE API CONTROLS THE STANDARDS FOR AUTOMOTIVE ENGINE OILS.
SJ , SL AND NOW SM MAY NOT BE AS GOOD FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE
RACING ENGINES AS THE OLDER SG/SH RATING.

[scuzz]

Also, FWIW I'm not trying to be a "Mr. Knowitall" - I'm just trying to be helpful.

[sleddog66]

Nice post SCUZZ! I do agree with what is stated here but there is one thing that always bothers me when choosing oil. The information is very hard to obtain by a consumer(except the API rating). I wish the companys would make this information more available on a web sight or something. Amsoil does!. You know, for a couple of years now I have heard people say that they have had zero issues with Rotella oil, but these seem to be the same people that are having overheating issues and have put in a clutch or two. HUMMM???:confused:

[Outlaw212]

Wow! Nice write up.


...but what oil do you use, Mr. Knowitall?!?! :D :D :D

[scuzz]

I Honda's synthetic now without moly. The gold stuff. :D (and almost as expensive) I know a lot of people have used the rotella t with great results but for me a trail rider, one of the last paragraphs says it all:



Why do you wear a helmet, Gloves, boots, jacket and WHY do you buy INSURANCE? In case of an accident! Right!! If within the first fifty (50) miles after an oil change, a rock hits your radiator or the thermostat sticks, the water pump stops pumping or whatever causes a major heat problem in your cooling system, what would you rather have in your engine? A mineral oil that acts like butter, that burns up and evaporates very quickly and also carbonizes OR an oil that can handle high RUNNING temps like synthetics (325°f to 367°f). High quality oils are INSURANCE not only maintenance. The same is true about brake fluids and gear oils.


BTW, I didn't write all that up, but rather cut-and-pasted from the article. I'm a smart guy, just not that smart about oil.

It made a lot of sense to me so I thought I would share.

[coalrat]

I just use the ps4 plus thats called for, have no reason not to. it works. The money is not a big deal , I'm sure I blow more of it than I need to on other things too.

[Evasiveone]

Well the KTM factory bike race teams use Rotella Synthetic. And there have been multiple oil analysis that have shown that many of your "motorcycle" oils contain far more Moly than many of your "non" motorcycle oils.

Rotella is designed for high shear loads, which is exactly what these quad engines need and after the thousands and thousands of miles everyone has put on their quads/dirtbikes/road machines using Rotella there is not doubt that it is clutch safe.

[scuzz]

So, what you the consumer need to decide is where the price breaking point is for you.

I chose the science behind the synthetics and the few extra dollars more.

[birdman7389]

Originally posted by scuzz
So, what you the consumer need to decide is where the price breaking point is for you.

I chose the science behind the synthetics and the few extra dollars more.
The Rotella synthetic is still under $20/gallon.

[scuzz]

Originally posted by birdman7389
The Rotella synthetic is still under $20/gallon.

Many if not most so called synthetic oils are just more highly refined dino oil. this is what the Rotella is. Most true synthetics proclaim PAO or ester on the label.


So rotella has a lower flash/burn point.


But playing devil's advocate against myself...

MANY people use Rotella T synthetic with ZERO issues.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-557205.html

[mity4]

So the 15w-40 rottela synthetic is a good choice in Texas?

[scuzz]

What kind of quad do you have and what kind of riding do you do?

[mity4]

Originally posted by scuzz
What kind of quad do you have and what kind of riding do you do?

I have an outlaw 525irs and I ride anywhere except wet conditions. Nothing real serious though just me and the kids or friends having fun on the trails, sand or track.

[scuzz]

I would go no-moly synthetic, but synthetic that isn't based off of regular crude (ESTER)


You go riding at Red River Motorcycle Trails in Bulcher much?

[fasterblaster02]

Rotella IS meant for gear cases and i have read places where is great for wet clutch applications. Remember that most heavy duty diesels have a gear case on the front of the motor that runs the power steering pump, air compressor, water pump, etc. They do resist foaming and have good shear properties.

[scuzz]

Just debating for debate's sake...not arguing.

But...

Diesels have BIG radiators, don't share gear oil and engine oil and don't wind out to 9 grand. They also don't run slipper pistons.

Engine oil goes in the front and tranny oil goes in the tranny. Gear oil goes in the back. They also have two filters that filter almost e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g out of the engine oil down to a few microns.

A motorcycle engine's oil does all the above and in some cases also has to cool the engine all with a little bitty 'ole filter.

A typical modern truck motor is 15 liters and can produce 600HP at a whopping 2100 rpm. It also uses 10 gallons of oil.

Your atv engine runs a mere half gallon of oil makes more HP/liter than a diesel engine, uses the same oil for everything, runs at a higher RPM and you trust (in many cases) your life to it.

I say get the right oil for the right job. It's why I don't wear a football helmet when I ride....

[fasterblaster02]

If you read my earlier post, diesels do run engine oil on the front gearcase of the motor. It is THE SAME oil that goes through the motor. Also, it is good for turbos that are running very high rpms.
I currently work for a trucking company, and know a little bit about these things, but I do not claim to know it all either. It seems that many people have been running this oil in their KTM motors with no problems. About the big radiators, you are right, they run in the 180-200 degree range, I have no idea what temps quads are running.
Im not trying to start an argument, just trying to say what I know.

[scuzz]

:)

I didn't take your reply as an argument at all...just great information.

They do have two filters no?

[coalrat]

This is what KTM recomends, 10/50 above 32f and 5/40 below. not sure how this compares to the recomended polaris oil.

http://www.motorexusa.com/prod_detail.asp?id=62

[Chris525]

Diesels do not have big radiators
Trucks have big radiators

Fact;
07 Outlaw 525
55.5 hours total
50 hours has Rotella 5w-40 syn.
Had to replace tie rod end











Because I hit a tree

[sleddog66]

Caolrat, Polaris oil recomends/and is 2w50 synthetic. for the KTM

[fasterblaster02]

Originally posted by scuzz
:)

I didn't take your reply as an argument at all...just great information.

They do have two filters no?

The Detroits have 2 filters, the Cat and Cummins motors we have use 1 huge filter, and the Volvo motors actually use 3 filters.

[scuzz]

I guess a better question would have been the quality of those filters filtering out down to a few microns.

You could have ten screen doors, but the ants could still get in.

[Evasiveone]

What do the number of filters have to do with what oil you use? Filters just pick out large engine contanements. The Outlaw is running 4 filters, but that does not mean 1 oil is better for it than another.

Remember diesel engines are not limited to just trucking applications. Many industrial diesel engines have internal wet clutches in them.

There are way too many oil analysis on the internet that shows many 4 stroke oils work as good or better than your "motorcycle" oils. Do not buy into the marketing campaigns that tell you you have to buy $10 a quart oil or you will fry your clutch!

[somewon]

I've been ruunning Rotella since I bought the quad and I'm still on my factory clutch.

I'm not planning to ride my quad to the moon, so I don't feel I need a NASA engineered oil to get me where I'm going.

And If the oil I'm using is prematurely wearing out my clutch plates, how does the cost of replacing them differ from the ammount I would have spent on the more expensive oil that would have extended the life of my clutch for X more hours?

Prob not much.

[scuzz]

What do the number of filters have to do with what oil you use? Filters just pick out large engine contanements. The Outlaw is running 4 filters, but that does not mean 1 oil is better for it than another.

What I'm pointing out is that diesel engines generally spin at a lower RPM, don't have clutch debris and burn much cooler. (and found out that some engines share the same crancase oil with the tranny too so I can't use that one any longer) Diesel oil doesn't have to be engineered to have a higher flash point so it doesn't carbonize inside your motor.

Again, the diesel vs synthetic arument amounts to someone riding with a football helmet on. I mean it is a helmet right? It does protect your head right? It just might do better if you were playing football...


how does the cost of replacing them differ from the amount I would have spent on the more expensive oil that would have extended the life of my clutch for X more hours?

Because I bet I can change my oil 6 times faster than you can change your clutch. (and it will cost me 6x less)

Again guys, I'm just debating with you all about this. :D

I L-O-V-E to ride my quad, there's actually nothing else as far as hobbies go that I would rather do more. Paying an additional $16 for an oil change is less than it costs me to go to a riding park. Also, for what it's worth as much as I love riding I equally hate tearing an engine apart. (well, aside from an upgrade)

[Evasiveone]

I am on my 3rd year on my stock clutch also and those are not easy years, they include a full season and a half of XC racing.

Your debate about diesels turning low rpm's doesn't hold water either. Most diesels are running turbos that are running 70,000 RPM's plus. I am sure our little 1 cylinder 4 strokes turning at 7-8000 rpm is nothing.

[scuzz]

Turbos are generally very ballanced with little to no vibration. It also must contain a bearing system to suspend the shaft, allowing it to rotate at very high speed with minimal friction. Your ATV engine is quite different.

Also, as an example the Cummins motor for a Dodge uses 12 quarts of oil.

Your little motorcycle/atv engine has to do everything with just 15% of that amount of oil *and* a slipper piston that introduces even more debris into the oil.

[scuzz]

Oh and this will be my last post in this thread. I don't want to....

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j254/gwwaddle/BeatDeadHorse.gif

Thanks guys.

:D

[fasterblaster02]

Rotella guys--
What are you guys running in your bikes, Rotella 15w40 or the synthetic 5w40?

[somewon]

synthetic 5w40

[Chris525]

synthetic 5w40

[Evasiveone]

Synthetic 5w40

[Outlaw212]

Synthetic 5w40

[mity4]

So Rotella 5w-40 synthetic should be my choice?

[schjimz]

Change your oil OFTEN and you will never have any problem..I always change oil before a race and after a hard day trail riding..I use the Wal_mart oil Rotella, oil changes often are a cheap way of protecting your investment!

[wannaride4]

I use Cross Power 4T, Full Synthetic, 10w-40 in my 525irs. It is expensive, but I would rather spend a little more on my oil and not have major expensive motor problems.

[powertechn2]

I dont have a 525... yet... but i have had a few issues with oils im my built 400 ex, mainly with the act>evo oil, made by castrol, it worked GR8 in my wr400, worked really gr8 in my quad when stock, i could go on several weekend rides and change it and it had no burning, no clutch issues nothing at all, even ran the stock clutch for 3 years riding hard, even after mildly modding the quad it was fine.

did the full teardown, piston still spec'd out like a machine with 10 hours on it, cam was the same thing, even the clutch plates.

so, after the engine was turned into a 461, then went to a 15% stronger clutch, and getting all the bugs worked out and tuned in properly, first run up the hill, was ok, second run, clutch slipped from 3rd to 4th majorly, had to let off throttle to get it to grab, then by that time i lost enough forward momentum to slow...

im sry, turning a short story into a book.

so anyways, i replaced the clutch again, the clutch i took out still spec'd out fine, no wear yet, but slipped like hell under a load at about 7k rpm.

called castrol, they told me that that oil was not designed for use in my quad, so i may see issues with it.

wtf?

thats all i could say to the castrol tech guy. i bought an expensive oil that works gr8 in everything else, except my built quad.


i used i think motorex (i think, it was blueish/greenish jug, was like about 20/gallon)when i changed the clutch again, and that clutch at least lasted a few rides. it is slipping again, but not as bad, only if i shift under full throttle.


soo, i say if it works for you, then do it, just you cant be mad at someone else if you have issues, once the warranty is up, its all on you anyways.

[holeshotoutlaw5]

i am also confused about what oil to use? i was afraid to use ps4 because of the rumors years back about polaris having transmission problems with the 500 fuji motor. so i've been useing castrol actevo 20w-50 4t (meaning clutch & trans. additive) but i was told by polaris headquarters in minn. that the ps4 was a straight 0-20w . nobody sells a straight 0-20w except mobil 1 and the price is 179.89 for 6 qt. they just releast this product recently. but does it have teflon in it like the ps4 and clutch & trans additive. buy the way my polaris dealer told me that ps4 was made buy the same company that packages mobil 1 but thats here say? i think my next oil change is going to be mobil 1 20w-50w v-twin harley oil with clutch& trans. additive! we pound our machines they need the best protection!

[holeshotoutlaw5]

I'M WITH YOU GUYS THIS TOPIC HAS BEEN ON MY MIND FOR THE LAST COUPLE MONTHS. I RUN ROTELLA T IN MY 05 DURAMAX AND MY1993 KABOTA 2 CYL. LAWN TRACTOR. MY FATHER INLAW IS ON HIS SIXTH JOHN DEERE TRACTOR! SINCE I BOUGHT MY TRACTOR 15 YRS. AGO I'VE RUN SCHELL OIL ALL THOSE YEARS. I WENT ON A FORUM TODAY CALLED THUMPER TALK THEY CLAIM NOFRICTION ADDITIVES IN OIL WITCH RUINS WET CLUTCHES AND WEARS TRANS. I'M DEFINITLY SWITCHING TO 5W-40 SYN. NOW THAT MY OUTLAW HAS BEEN BROKE IN WITH ACTEVO 20-50 CASTROL 4T I'M READY FOR STRAIGHT SYNTH.

[Brown450R]

Amsoil 0w-40 4stroke Power Sports Synthetic Motor Oil. It has a picture of a 4wheeler and a snowmobile on the bottle. I use it in all my quads and it has been good. No problems with anything. Just use it and change it regularly and quit worrying about it. I have also run the cheapest Walmart oil I could find without any issues, but I just don't feel good about doing it, so I use the expensive stuff. I don't care what you use, just change it often.

[powertechn2]

Originally posted by holeshotoutlaw5
I'M WITH YOU GUYS THIS TOPIC HAS BEEN ON MY MIND FOR THE LAST COUPLE MONTHS. I RUN ROTELLA T IN MY 05 DURAMAX AND MY1993 KABOTA 2 CYL. LAWN TRACTOR. MY FATHER INLAW IS ON HIS SIXTH JOHN DEERE TRACTOR! SINCE I BOUGHT MY TRACTOR 15 YRS. AGO I'VE RUN SCHELL OIL ALL THOSE YEARS. I WENT ON A FORUM TODAY CALLED THUMPER TALK THEY CLAIM NOFRICTION ADDITIVES IN OIL WITCH RUINS WET CLUTCHES AND WEARS TRANS. I'M DEFINITLY SWITCHING TO 5W-40 SYN. NOW THAT MY OUTLAW HAS BEEN BROKE IN WITH ACTEVO 20-50 CASTROL 4T I'M READY FOR STRAIGHT SYNTH.

if your talkin like the newer deere's, they are junk, so go figure, esp like teh l series lol

l means laugh out loud as you are on your way out... the l series is cheapo deere.


anywho, the breakin peroid is better to use normal oil, if you break in using a really good oil, then switch to a crappy oil, you may have issues from going from a good super slick oil to a not as slick oil.

i have seen odd engine issues, many of them... and honestly, break in on whatever is in it, then run what you want, dont run a good expensive oil then think wtfever oil is oil...

and the durajap has like tons of oil vs quad and bike engines man.

what is straight synth oil?

the synthetic is the base... thats about it... everything else is additives. i have also never heard of schell oil lol... jk just punning there...

and im not saying that rotella is crap oil, just getting humor from this. :)

[sleddog66]

Powertechn2, Rotella IS Shell oil!

[powertechn2]

i was joking, i know shell is rotella, but never heard of schell... lol spelling humor ha ha ha :rolleyes:

[oilguy]

THIS FOR 2 CYCLES


https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/tdr_qt_300pxh.jpg


MOST ARE USING THIS FOR WET CLUTCH TYPES
https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/mcf_qt_300.jpg