NEW ESR motor overheating

[FL-R]

I just bought the new ESR 310 kit, broke it in etc. I went riding Sat and it started spitting a little bit of water out the overflow line, did this a couple times, I had a temp gauge and everytime it was 200 to 210 on the head and a little lower on the rad- inlet and outlets, After short full throttle hill runs it started steaming, shut her down still not above 220. When i went on a good hour and a half trail run id did fine. Im in FL and it was about 65 degrees that day, Im runnin a 38 a/s with 175/50 jets, When I got back to the house a changed out the 175 for a 180 and fattend the air mix screw up a bit, Any other ideas. The rad worked fine before the new top end. Im prob gunna buy a inline cooler for it to.

[05LSR250R]

Make sure that water pump is within specs! Once you go big bore any weal link in the cooling system will rear its ugly head.

[mxduner]

darn i think someone else had a problem with their new esr 310 kit.check other threads about the new top end.i think it was something about the head gasket leaking if not mistaken.

[Honda 250r 001]

jetting. your too lean.

[1promodfan]

So,what is the correct running temp? And how many degrees is too hot? I plan on running a temp gauge, what temps should I be running between?

[Honda 250r 001]

Originally posted by 1promodfan
So,what is the correct running temp? And how many degrees is too hot? I plan on running a temp gauge, what temps should I be running between?

proper runinn temp is 160-180, but thers nothin wrong with pushin 200. like when your in the open and ridin mx or xc or somethin. you should run 160-180 but when your in trails you will defeneatly bump 200. hell i have seen times when my R runs 210, but when i take it wide open across a field, it drops like a rock back to 160. kinda long but lots of good info.

[FL-R]

I change from a 175 to a 180 we will see and also richend it up a bit on the air mix screw

[morse250r]

your not to lean if anything the pilot go up to a 55

[kit bazile]

im running a 330 esr top end and live in south louisiana and mine in the heat of the day after riding it it still running at 160 and thats a temp guage and a temp gun shooting the head temp but i was told by eddie that when it hits 205 shut it down and look at you antifreeze i just run distilled water with no antifreeze im a mechanic and i can tell you that water has a lot faster cooling point then antifreeze dos and some people wont agree with me but it does in other words boil antifreez and boil water and you tell me with one cools faster

[Honda 250r 001]

DONT RUN STRAIT WATER!. YOUR STOOPID!!! dont you know that will corrode your water pump and causes over heating? run wetter watter if you dont want to run antifreeze. its there for a reason!

[FL-R]

I run water wetter in mine also

[k265r]

Originally posted by kit bazile
im running a 330 esr top end and live in south louisiana and mine in the heat of the day after riding it it still running at 160 and thats a temp guage and a temp gun shooting the head temp but i was told by eddie that when it hits 205 shut it down and look at you antifreeze i just run distilled water with no antifreeze im a mechanic and i can tell you that water has a lot faster cooling point then antifreeze dos and some people wont agree with me but it does in other words boil antifreez and boil water and you tell me with one cools faster

the point is keeping it from boiling. what boils faster water or 50/50 mix water antifreeze?

[wes350x]

I run "engine ice" and have never had heating troubles.

[machwon]

The coolant will expand some but it should go below the top fin in the radiator. In other words, if you filled your radiator to the top it will expand and lose about a 1/2-3/4 of an inch. Next, I would try a different radiator cap if its just spitting. Otherwise you likely have a head gasket issue. A good radiator shop can also test this to see if you have a leaking head gasket, but the cost is about as much as the gaskets. If it continues, ESR or a good engine guy needs to reevaluate the head set up they sent you.

[05LSR250R]

I think you can run a KX500 radiator cap and its a 15 pound cap, compared to 13 pounds.

[86 Quad R]

also. antifreeze is easier on the pump seals, helps keep em lubed. a rad cap for a 86 and up nissan Z24 L4 will work aswell.

at this point i believe i would try and pressure up the system to make sure that you havent a head gasket leak in conjunction with a new rad cap. :cool:

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Randy,
I caint wait till Kit comes back, wonder what hes going to say. :eek2: :eek2: :(
Neil

[NJChris]

Years ago ESR sent me a jug with the exhaust ports unfinished. the port/cylinder edge was rough/sharp. I didnt know back then to check this stuff. As soon as I ran it hard the piston melted. Always check their work cause their quality control is bad(at least it was 8 years ago!!!!

[machwon]

Originally posted by 05LSR250R
I think you can run a KX500 radiator cap and its a 15 pound cap, compared to 13 pounds.

I've recommended these caps to several guys I've done motors for. I personally use one as well. Just be sure you ask for the optional 1.6 kPa cap. Otherwise you will get the standard 1.3 kPa. KX 500's were notorious for spitting coolant.

[Aceman]

Originally posted by kit bazile
im running a 330 esr top end and live in south louisiana and mine in the heat of the day after riding it it still running at 160 and thats a temp guage and a temp gun shooting the head temp but i was told by eddie that when it hits 205 shut it down and look at you antifreeze i just run distilled water with no antifreeze im a mechanic and i can tell you that water has a lot faster cooling point then antifreeze dos and some people wont agree with me but it does in other words boil antifreez and boil water and you tell me with one cools faster

I'm glad you're not my mechanic!!!:eek2:

[FL-R]

The ESR jug/head has two o rings in the jug. Im gunna check it out and buy a new cap

[C-LEIGH RACING]

FL-R,

Best I can remember, & I'm pretty sure about it, the ESR heads, all the coolant flow passageways are the same machined size all the way round the head & by it being like that, it could mean the coolant is flowing more around the back of the cylinder than it is around the exhaust port.
Now that could cause one to heat up more than normal, but I also know the coolant outlet is in the front over top the exhaust, not on top & to the right like the Pro-x heads.
This is why the Pro-x heads have the small coolant flow holes at the rear as to promote more flow around the exhaust.

And you know for sure the radiators flowing good on the inside & no silt is built up in between the cooling fins on the outside blocking air flow through the core.

I've seen a bunch that were half stopped up on the outside with build up & the owners never knew it untill they check it closely.

The Polaris ATVs are the worlds worst for plugging up the core fins. That fine mesh protector screen they use over the front will cause real find dirt to build up & then you got to pull the front end apart just to presure wash it out. Riding through a high water creek wont even wash it out.

Not to far fetched, to thing it could be the ignition acting up making it over heat.
Neil

[jhtrx250r]

Man there is a lot of bad advice on here,

First never run just water , where did that guy come from? mechanic? must work for FORD LOL.

anyways your jetting looks OK for sea level if you have the correct needle (that you failed to mention)

I would go to a 52 maybe ? only if you need it.

If you think you may have a coolant leak in the cylinder pull the pipe , check the exhaust port if you see green/red soot (depends on the type of coolant you run) in the exhaust chamber than you have a leak check your head.

as for coolant, you need it or something like it, water wetter, engine ice ( thumbs up on the engine ice)

I ride dunes ( sea level)my jetting is close to yours with a CPI sphinx PV cylinder and it doesn't get hot. ( I have a 52 pilot and my needle is on the 4th clip DEJ or DEK needle)

Its been a long time since I checked what needle is in my carb the bike runs great no need.

Neil appears to be is a smart feller, every thing he puts in, alaways looks correct, so you cant go wrong with his advice.

only use the correct cap, look at yours if the rubber is worn get a new one OE only, or take it to the closest dealer and have the parts dept check it.

Also if you see advice that looks like it came from a mental case chances are it did , don't take it.

[FL-R]

I know before the bottom end went south, it smelled real sweet when I stoped, kinda like syrup, So i was kinda thinking it has a leak some where and I still smell it, but I dont see it leaking anywhere, Is there ant way to check the water pump.

[EXtreme-]

Let me add some from experience....

I have 2 new 310pv's from ESR. Both are jetted perfectly. One's a short and one's a long. Different heads and different jetting. Your jetting seems ok, or close, because my 175 was too rich for this motor. Spent hours of trial and error dialing it in. 178 fouled the plug, it was sooo rich. Fuel wasn't the prob.

I bought temp guages for both machines. Both run 180-200 most of the time. Varies on speed and airflow thru the rad. Our stock rads just would not cut the mustard so we bought high-roller rads at 400.00 each! It made some difference to the above temps, but its still not to my liking. We still often hit 225 or so when using slower speeds carving woods or shooting hills over and over....which is why I wanted the bigger motors to begin with.

We experimented with antifreeze. ESR recommends 80-20 prestone. No good here in PA unless I drain the motor. So I went 50-50 and still heated up. Tried 60-40 and no diff. Then changed out to propylene glycol (same ingredient as EI) at 60-40 and helped a little but still heats. BOTH MOTORS. Coolant flows good in both rads. These motors seem to want lots of airflow. The last try is going to be switching to EI, but haven't had the notion to do it during the cold winter.

225 scares me alot

[Aceman]

Originally posted by EXtreme-
I bought temp guages for both machines. Both run 180-200 most of the time. Varies on speed and airflow thru the rad. Our stock rads just would not cut the mustard so we bought high-roller rads at 400.00 each! It made some difference to the above temps, but its still not to my liking. We still often hit 225 or so when using slower speeds carving woods or shooting hills over and over....which is why I wanted the bigger motors to begin with.

That seems odd. I've hit 220-230 a couple times with my stock rad while snow riding. My tires were spinning constantly and my trail speed was low, but other than that, it never happened.

When I decided to rebuild my 310 non-pv I switched out my stock rad for an Afco and also switched to Engine Ice at the same time. My temps went from about 180 to 150-160 or so. During heavy duning or tooling around on the trails in the slow gears it'll get up to 180 but as soon as I drop the revs or pick up trail speed the temps drop pretty quickly seems like. It takes at least 8-10 min to warm the quad up to 130, I ride it around easy for a bit and then it'll hover around 140-150 usually at an idle.

My Afco has a larger coolant capacity than the stock rad, plus the radiator hose locations are both on the left side which added extra coolant capacity since I had to run a new longer lower hose.

Just my experiences...:)

[kit bazile]

aceman you lucky i got to keep my mouth shut on here and i guess you a no it all
:mad:

[Aceman]

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Poopfarmer/scaredkitty.jpg

[wes350x]

yall are funny