audio guys

[ridered92]

i need a quick answer im building sub boxs tomorrow. im useing partical board. so heres my question im building 2 boxs one for each sub. there 12in kickers 800watts a peice. what do i need for air space? there going under my back seat in a f150. so the size of the bax cant be to big thanks

[ben300]

look at the kicker spec sheet, it'll tell you the correcting volume, and tuning diognostics for the subs...

but to get the maximum potential fo the subs, i would just either have them built by a professional or buy prefab kciker boxes for the f150

[ridered92]

is the spec sheet on there site?

[XCRacer236]

you really need to use MDF. kicker website will say whats needed for air space, but most likely under the back seat isn't gonna work.

[ben300]

Originally posted by CaseDawg350
you really need to use MDF. kicker website will say whats needed for air space, but most likely under the back seat isn't gonna work.

particle board is mdf..but yes...1/2" to 3/4" mdf is perfect for any kicker sub, consider that majority fo their subs operate ona near standard 1.0in^3, with the solo baric subs being able to handle less than one cube....

also, depending on what year f150, you can raise teh back seat up wiht custom brackets any where from 2 to 3 inches....i did it with 3 jl audio 12w3v2's....makes the seat a little more uncomfortable, but it is completely possible

[gcart2]

Originally posted by ben300
particle board is mdf..but yes...1/2" to 3/4" mdf is perfect for any kicker sub, consider that majority fo their subs operate ona near standard 1.0in^3, with the solo baric subs being able to handle less than one cube....

also, depending on what year f150, you can raise teh back seat up wiht custom brackets any where from 2 to 3 inches....i did it with 3 jl audio 12w3v2's....makes the seat a little more uncomfortable, but it is completely possible

pictures?

[ridered92]

i cant find the chart on there site

[ridered92]

i dont have the money to have it done thats why im doing it myself:rolleyes:

[<DRS>GPF]

if the speaker you have is available on crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/g_520/Component-Subwoofers.html?tp=111&nvpair=FFBrand%7cKicker&nvpair=FFSize%7c%5brank4%5d12%22) then you can look at the "hands on research" tab on the item page.
there they talk about optimal cubic space for vented and non-vented enclosures and recommend the best size for the speaker youre looking at.

[ridered92]

nope i have the old kickers comp cvr

[<DRS>GPF]

the 2 ohm the 2 ohm, (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2067C12VR2/Kicker-CompVR-07CVR122.html?search=kickers+comp+cvr&tp=111) or the 4 ohm. (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2067C12VR4/Kicker-CompVR-07CVR124.html?search=kickers+comp+cvr)?

[ridered92]

i couldent tell u i bought them used

[<DRS>GPF]

their recommendations are the same for either one..

Recommended Sealed Box Volume:

Compact (minimum enclosure volume): 1 cu/ft; the woofer can handle up to 400 watts RMS (200 watts per voice coil)
SQ (maximum enclosure volume): 4.6 cu/ft; the woofer can handle up to 300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)

Recommended Vented Box Volume:

Compact: 1.75 cu/ft; 2.5" x 12.5" port opening; 20" port depth; the woofer can handle up to 300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)
SPL/Deep Bass: 2.25 cu/ft; 3" x 12.5" port opening; 20.5" port depth; the woofer can handle up to 300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)

Note: The power handling specifications listed with the vented enclosure recommendations apply only when a 25Hz, 24dB/octave subsonic filter (sold separately) is used with this woofer. If a subsonic filter is not used, power handling may decrease, excessive port noise can occur, and the life of the woofer may be shortened.

[ridered92]

mine do not look like either one of those

[Alberta_Qaudin]

Originally posted by ben300
particle board is mdf..but yes...1/2" to 3/4" mdf is perfect for any kicker sub, consider that majority fo their subs operate ona near standard 1.0in^3, with the solo baric subs being able to handle less than one cube....

also, depending on what year f150, you can raise teh back seat up wiht custom brackets any where from 2 to 3 inches....i did it with 3 jl audio 12w3v2's....makes the seat a little more uncomfortable, but it is completely possible

not trying to argue but for the sake of the sub box, particle board and MDF arent the same, particle board is much more ridgid, which in the case of a sub box makes for more vibration and not as clear of a sound. mdf is made up of much finer fibers isnt as ridgid of a material and obsorbes (sp) vibration better giving a cleaner sound, also is easier to work with IMO(doesnt splinter or break apart when cutting) particle board is more for cabinets, cubbords, ect.

[ridered92]

http://youtube.com/watch?v=_tbDUcBpHG8&feature=related they look like those but 12in

[ben300]

Originally posted by Alberta_Qaudin
not trying to argue but for the sake of the sub box, particle board and MDF arent the same, particle board is much more ridgid, which in the case of a sub box makes for more vibration and not as clear of a sound. mdf is made up of much finer fibers isnt as ridgid of a material and obsorbes (sp) vibration better giving a cleaner sound, also is easier to work with IMO(doesnt splinter or break apart when cutting) particle board is more for cabinets, cubbords, ect.

yes i fully understand, i have built boxes using both materials, and yes mdf is the prefered, optimum material for the application...

also i would not port a box unless you are certain of the correct location of the ports to optimize sound quality adn performance from a sub...there are software packages you can download from teh internet for free which will give you these lcoations, but even then, it is still hard to get the correct sound witha port...and weather the subs 2 or 4 ohm does not determine teh size of the box

gcar2...i dont have pictures, frineds vehicle..and it has long since been sold...sorry

[Alberta_Qaudin]

i have to say i am not a fan of ported boxes, like ben said you have to be very particular about getting the right size right lay out, and right positioning to get the best out of them. where as non ported are more forgiving

[ben300]

Originally posted by Alberta_Qaudin
i have to say i am not a fan of ported boxes, like ben said you have to be very particular about getting the right size right lay out, and right positioning to get the best out of them. where as non ported are more forgiving

i totally agree, a ported box will blow your ear drums out, but a correctly made enclosed box that will match teh frequecies of teh sub and allow for proper linear excursion without pushback will not only be window shacking but will melt your ears with sweet sweet sounds.

thats why it is so importatn to knwo hwat you want to do...also, you have to hae the corrrect ammount of space for a ported box, other wise it just wasted adn you would have been jsut as good to go wtih a closed box, plust wiht what you watn to do, if you want to put the subs under he seat, its gonna be extrememly tough to make a ported box and make the back seat still functional....

also you need to take into consideraton what direction you want to face your subs...in order for subs to work properly, yo uneed to utilize reflective reverberations of the sound waves, this is what in yoru case a down fireing sub setup wtih teh subs cones elevated about 2.5 inches from the floor fo the truck you work great. also, if you have the room, you can firethem backwards...


also..you could fire the supbs forwards, if you were to creat a bandpass set up, but that will take an aweful large ammount of room

[rbgnwa45]

I had a compVR 15 in a sealed bassworx box, my old test box was louder - it was a 3-times the size kitchen cupboard sealed up with particle board and 4 nails, and it got lower and everything, and there were like 20 air leaks, in a crap buick trunk, on 550W. So use MDF, it will get a lot louder and sound better, make sure you have enough airspace, take into account how much space the woofer takes up when in the box.