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View Full Version : Flipped front rims for wider stance



schism
01-28-2009, 03:55 PM
Has anyone here flipped the front rims to get a wider stance? The rims are off-set so if you have them on the other way you gain a few inches.

I am about to order new front tires and Im wondering if I should keep this set up or if there is a issue with doings this( dont think there is because Ive had it this way for years).

stevenroberts
01-28-2009, 06:35 PM
u can but vavle stems will hit the calipers id gp with a arms or spacers

graham300ex
01-28-2009, 08:32 PM
don't flip rims or get spacers. The best and only good way to do is a arms. Cause the further you get the tire from the point in which it swilvels the harder it is to steer cause your pushing the tire more then turning it. Also bumpsteer will be even worse cause it being further out from where the spindle attaches it will exxagerate more. just my .02

JohnT_98300EX
01-29-2009, 03:50 AM
And it will "push" terrible at low speed. I have Douglas wheels on mine, they have more offset than stock. Low speed handling can be terrible on tighter trails. You turn the bars but the wheeler just doesn't turn.
Just as soon as I don't have to shovel to get to my biddies shed the stockers are going back on mine. I love the look but the greater offset doesn't work well for me.

QuadCobbler
01-30-2009, 07:41 AM
I myself (not my budie or just hear say) ran flipped rims on my 300 for at leats 4 years, the only problem I had is I bent a ty rod, so I straightened it back out no problem. I cought a tree in 3rd gear with the sideway (ouch). I didn't tearup ball joints or wheel bearings either. I rode the **** out of the thing with the wheels flipped. If you want to flip your rims drill a hole maybe 3/8th or a little smaller on the opposite side of the original valve stem 180 degrees from the original hole. Take out the original valve stem and messure the hole to get exact size. Then put a valve stem in the original hole back wards ( so the threded part would be inside the tire) then put another valve stem in the new hole the right way. Now you have about +4 in the front. Or you could buy some stock 400ex a-arms and get the same result. I have (my self) ran both setups. I do like the 400 a-arms better but more money more mods and more parts.

tkm
02-02-2009, 07:33 PM
Originally posted by JohnT_98300EX
And it will "push" terrible at low speed. I have Douglas wheels on mine, they have more offset than stock. Low speed handling can be terrible on tighter trails. You turn the bars but the wheeler just doesn't turn.
Just as soon as I don't have to shovel to get to my biddies shed the stockers are going back on mine. I love the look but the greater offset doesn't work well for me.

You sure this is the cause of your 'push'? Did you do anything else to the alignment when you put the wheels on there?

Also, are you running different tires? All are factors that could cause a low-speed push.

JohnT_98300EX
02-03-2009, 03:03 AM
Did nothing else at the time. The 400 front end was already under it. just added the rims and tires. It could be the added grip of the rears? (ITP Holeshot SR radials front and rear) Adding an extra spacer to the top a arms helped but not totally.
To be accurate, it is not terrible. But at low speed on a tight trail when I turn in it starts in, then just "pushes " a bit at the end. The handling on fast trails is great, and so is the stability. Other than in tight woods it's great.
It seems to just be a combination of the wider stance in the rear (again from the wheel offset) and the offset in the front.