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View Full Version : Help!! No spark on 600 Grizzly



knibbeje
01-22-2009, 05:20 AM
99 Yamaha Grizzly 600
Had no spark. We changed the stator with one purchased from Ricky Stator. It ran fine about 4 hours while snow plowing and it died again. Again, no spark. We changed out the CDI box, ignition coil, new plug. We have a Yamaha service manual and checked everything, resistance on factory specs and also the ones for stator and pickup provided by Ricky Stator. Everything checks out fine. We cleaned the grounds and untaped the wiring harness and checked the ground crimps on the harness. We also did a point by point amp test by putting 2.5 amps through each wire to check for corrosion and broken strands. All that checked out fine. The source coil is putting out 91 volts. The pickup is fluctuating when cranking between 2 and 4 millivolts. I do not how many amps the source coil is actually putting out. I also put a inductive timing light around the feed wire to the ignition coil and when you are cranking it does not flash. But, when you let off it flashes once or maybe twice. Also if you crank it with the electric start, the timing light will flash once the battery is drawn down the point that it will barely crank. I have taken the kill switch apart and checked the contacts. I ohmed it and checked voltage. Also the main switch checks out fine. I'm out of ideas! Please help!

knibbeje
01-22-2009, 06:08 PM
More feedback,
Tonight we hot wired the neutral safety switch, checked all connections and cranked it both with battery and with a external 12V power supply running off AC (battery charger) On battery power it reads out just over 12V and even when it cranks and the battery slows down we still get above 10.5V so I don't think that is it. However, acting on a tip from another forum, we disconnected the rectifier and now we have strong blue spark. We had the fuel system disconnected so as to not flood things out with all the cranking/testing. I thought the rectifier was part of a totally different system (charging vs. ignition) and there shouldn't be cross over between the systems. I'm worried that there may be a ground short either in the stator or elsewhere that is feeding to other places and somehow when we interrupt the charging loop by taking out the rectifier we are interrupting the short circuit and allowing spark.
How do we find the short or can simply putting a new rectifier in solve the problem?

charles ford
02-04-2009, 08:00 AM
mine lost spark did you get yours going.?? I'm going to unplug my ret, too. I need to get a manual to check my stator. I picked up a nother cdi box and still nothing mine will hit like two times when you turn it over once in a blue moon. but then nothing.let me know if you have any extra parts after you get it running.
charliekat@oh.rr.rr.com
coil,stator w/pick-up coil, cdi box. is there anything I sould check to find my problem.???

knibbeje
02-04-2009, 08:27 AM
Well,
We ended up finding out that initially the stator was the bad part for us. It ran for about 4 hours while plowing and then quit again. Turned out after replacing all kinds of electrical parts and no luck, we found that unhooking the rectifier allowed it to run for us. Then put a new rectifier in and ran for a few minutes and died again. Blew up new rectifier. Then tore it all apart again and found 2 wires burned together at the grommet where the stator wires leave the stator and head to the rectifier. Took out the stator and sent it back to see if they will cover it under warranty.
Probably you should check stator and if it is bad, replace both the stator and the rectifier together. Cheapest rectifier I could find was at RMStator.com although I got it cheaper through their ebay store. Also they offer a 1yr warranty on the rectifier. Ricky is a good place to get a stator and they are helpful on the phone.
Ricky stator can give you ohm readings for testing resistance on all the parts of the stator. I'm not good on testing stators but apparently if you put it under 5000rpm load you should be able to get 90V or more AC out of the stator. I don't have equipment to test the rectifier so once we have a known working stator installed again, we'll just test DC back to the battery and make sure we are getting juice sent back (around 14V at the battery maybe?)
Ignition coils are cheap $30-40 and ours had a very short wire from continued cutting and splicing so we'll keep the new ignition coil even though ours was good. We have a used CDI that works fine (we tested the new vs the old CDI while the engine was still running) We may have a working rectifier (the 1st rectifier wasn't blown as far as we can tell, just the 2nd) but we'll have to wait to test it until the new stator comes back.
The best ideas on testing for spark would be to check your whole wiring harness for continuity/shorts especially at the multiple places where the grounds are attached to each other and at places where electrical components mount to the frame. Then make sure you have no continuity between the various parts of the stator (should be some resistance in ohms and ricky can tell you how much), then check that you have a good battery, check spark plug gap, make sure the spark plug boot tests good and that there is proper resistance through the spark plug cap.
Otherwise check my posts on doityourself.com, search for grizzly no spark. The guy there was very helpful in walking me through all of my problems.

Hope that helps.

knibbeje
02-13-2009, 06:45 AM
A big thanks to all who have stuck with me on this. The stator with the melted wires was sent back and they replaced it under warranty. We installed it and it fired right up. So it appears that when the stator went back the second time it didn't fry the rectifier as we thought, as we are now using the factory rectifier and doing just fine. We did keep the new CDI box in since it seems to run better with this new one and we aren't sure how to test the old one. We are getting good charging back to the battery. The ignition coil was replaced but it wasn't the problem, we mostly replaced it since the wire going to the plug was too short from repeated trimming back. Thanks again to all!

86250rbanshee
03-28-2009, 11:51 AM
Sort of in the same boat any help would be awesome It has no spark or no crank, with the bottom. We jumped across the solenoid and used a push button starter basically a button with 2 leads from it and it cranks. We have all the plastic off this thing, when you push the button the solednoid clicks so current is getting there. We sort of think there is a bad or loose ground wire somewhewre but what a pain to find anyone got any other hints?