Just bought a 97 LT80

[nicker71]

Just picked up a non-runner today. Dont know anything about them at all. I assume the oil injection still works but dont know which oil to run??? Also the guy I bought it from said that the motor would run( and that it ran last summer) But that tranmission wouldnt go, and that the nut had fallen off inside that contects the tourque converter to the motor??, if that makes sense.

any idea's?? Im going to try and work on it soon. What other things should I look for.
Thanks
nick

will post some pics of it soon

[LT80]

You can use any 2 stroke oil that's made for injection.
The nut falling off is very rare. Get in side and tell us what you see. We'll go from there. :)

[nicker71]

Right on, thanks.

[nicker71]

Well I got it started today. I cleaned out the carb and everything. I had to start it at the solinoid, start switch wouldnt work?. It didnt want to start right away. But after a little work and a lot of cranking it fired up. One thing I didnt understand is why no fuel would come out of the fuel valve with it turn to on, I left it on prim. Whats the purpose of the prim?? If it starts buy jumping it at the soliniod does that mean its faulty in the start switch or might there be something else?

Once I had it running for a little bit and made sure it would run I took to cover off to access the belt clutch. The first thing I noticed was when we pulled the cover off it had about one inch of oily water, or watery oil. I dont think there is suppose to have any oil in there and I drained it out. That leads me to my next question does the LT80 take any crank case oil??

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/P1100617.jpg

I took the rear drive off to clean off all the oil and noticed a part that looked like it had been welded. What ever work that had been done to it seem ok. I think it will work fine.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/P1100621.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/P1100620.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/P1100622.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/P1100619.jpg

I started it up to left the case open to see what the problem was and the first clutch assembly never ingaged the belt. So then next I took that assembly apart and found the Main problem. Inside the movable drive had some parts broken. I could see broken parts inside and some even fell out. I never did open it because I ran out of time. I looked up on online parts diagram and it looks like I can open it up and just buy the parts I need. I think Im going to start with the first cluth assembly and then check and see it if will engage the belt. Hopefully the back one will work.(there's alot of parts to the back one) Also there wasnt any gaskets on the case, but since it doenst hold any oil I really dont need to have one, right??

These are bad pics but this part has the broken pieces
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/P1100625.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/P1100624-1.jpg



Where the best place to get parts for the LT80's? Just how fast will one of these move? I have an 85TRX125 and I want to know how the motors will compare in power??

I'll need a battery, air filter for sure. Maybe a belt and a couple clutch parts. I dont want to spend more than $100 in parts if I can. The plastic and the rest of the quad are in good shape.

thanks
nick

[LT80]

Your going to need a new front clutch variator, rollers and roller plate. The brass bushing is broke, correct?
The welded piece is fine if you don't race.
No sidecover gasket is needed. They come w/one but it's no big deal. I never replace em.
The gearbox takes 10-40 oil. There is a bolt in front of the drive sprocket. Take the bolt out and fill till it weeps out. Fill is at the top of the case.
You are correct, the water/oil shouldn't be there.
The belts wear forever and work the best old and wore.
I've seen the push buttons go bad. Use a ohm meter to check.
Petcock::On is off till the motor creates vaccum and opens the diaphram in the petcock. Prime runs all the time.
That's a newer machine (or a older one w/new cases). It amazes me at times the way ppl let em go to heck like this.
Their loss,,your gain. :)

[nicker71]

Thanks LT80, you are a big help. I paid only $100 for it, its a 97 and the plastic is in good shape as well as the seat. I knew $100 was almost to good of a buy, but it came with title so I felt better about it. I didn't realize how much these are worth and how well they hold their valve.

O It think the brass bushing was still intact but the inside of the part were broken. I'll know for sure once I take it apart

thanks again
nick

[airmobile101]

Nick, you stole that thing bro ! Congrats !
Timmy!!!

[nicker71]

found a little time and started taking apart the clutch variator tonight. I stripped 2 of the 3 screws off and may have to replace (dont think I can get the studs out) all the rollers or what ever they are called are bad. The brass bushing is broke like you said. And the whole thing was full of oil or maybe it was grease? I would like to buy a whole assembly if I can with breaking the bank. or maybe I can just get by with replacing the brass bushing and 6 rollers? would do you think? How much does the whole assembly cost??


6 rollers (outside part is plastic)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/DSCN0113.jpg


Inside part looks ok except for the broken studs
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/DSCN0117.jpg


This little plastic piece was also torn a little, dont think it will hurt anything
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/DSCN0116.jpg


looks like this whole part has to be replaced
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/DSCN0114.jpg


I just noticed when looking at this pic, that they're some pits where the roller had worn. Should this part be replaced?

Thanks
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/nicker71/DSCN0118.jpg

[LT80]

hehe, all that's scrap. The grease hardens and stops the rollers from rolling thus wearing in one spot like shown.

Variator-$35-40
rollers -$18
Roller plate-$5
Insulators (the lil horseshoe things) $10.
That's the approx cost.

[nicker71]

got a used variator on ebay. opened it up and looks good, but the grease is old and harded up, what sould I do?? Should I clean the old stuff out and repack it with new grease?

[LT80]

Clean the old grease out and just use a dab of grease on each roller for installation.
What did the ebay parts cost?

[nicker71]

ok thanks. I spent $45 shipped for the whole clutch assembly but all I need was that variator. I'll try and sell the other parts on ebay. Was that a good buy?

[LT80]

Not sure what all you got, but prolly a good deal.
Did you replace the rollers and the plate that covers the rollers?
Let me know what else you got, I may be interested.

[nicker71]

yep the whole thing came assembled, I opened it up and took a look at the rollers and they look good.

I have the rest of the clutch parts that went on the front and the clutch parts that went to the rear assembly

[nicker71]

Well I put the clutch back together and tried running it. It started right up to my amazement. I was able to test the clutch and it seems to work fine now. But It wouldnt stay running for long, not sure why?? Seems fuel related I may take the carb apart again to clean it. I was able to drive it down the street a couple of times but each time it would die on me and I would have to push it back.

I have a couple of questions

The motor turns over very quickly, I have jumper cables running off my lawn mower battery, which has more power but it sure turns fast. When I had the clutch apart I was able to turn the crank over fairly easy by hand. Would low compression cause the motor not want to run??

I still cant figure out why the start button wont work. I tested the start button and it tested good. What about the soliod?? I really just need to buy a service manual. But what are the 4 wires that run into the soliod, or at least the orange one??

Thanks

[LT80]

Yes, compression will effect running. Better check it. :)

[nicker71]

Had some time to look it over again and I found the problem with it not running right. The petcock valve was full of junk. After cleaning that its started right up (by jumping it at the soliod) I drove it around for about 15mins runs and idle good. Breaks work good and everything feels tight. Now I need a battery and wiring diagram so I can figure out the starting problem, or maybe just a pull starter.

My daughter is only 9 months old, so it will be a while before she can use it. I think i may just sell it so I can get some funds together to get a newer racebike.

[nicker71]

Finally figured out the wiring problem. Got a battery and the had if running for about 15mins. When ever it was a idle it would want to die, like it was starving for fuel. Couldnt get it to stay running for very long.

I had just put on all the plastic and parts. Now I guess Im going to have to take it all apart again and maybe boil the carb. Do all the lt80 motors turn over so fast?? What are signs or low compression, I might check that first before I take it all apart.

By the time I finally get this thing running my daughter might actually be old enough to ride it:D :D

[LT80]

Originally posted by LT80
Yes, compression will effect running. Better check it. :) :confused:

[nicker71]

Compression checked out around 100, boiling the carb right now. Spark looked really good.

My petcock valve doesnt seem to be working like it should gas will always flows no matter if its on res or prim. But as long as the carb is getting fuel it should be fine right??

[LT80]

The petcock should not flow in the ON position untill the motor spins and creates vaccum to open the petcock.
On in down.
100 isn't that good. But it may be good enough.

[nicker71]

The petcock valve isnt working right but as of right now she runs. The boiling must have done the trick.

[LT80]

It's helped a bunch of others also.
Glad it's running. :)