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rooster300ex
12-21-2008, 03:08 PM
I got the dremel out and grinded all the jb weld off the bottom of the case where its cracked on my 300ex motor. One problem I can barely see where all the cracks are, and I grinded it down to bare aluminum. Any tricks to see where all the cracks are after I grinded on it????????

jeepthing07
12-21-2008, 04:34 PM
they sell home magnaflux kits for detecting cracks in engine blocks and stuff maybe that would work?

soyo
12-21-2008, 08:34 PM
get you a little propane torch and lightly start heating the area, once the oil starts to heat up it will start coming from the cracks. are you going to weld the cracks once you find them?

300ex mxracer
12-22-2008, 11:02 AM
Originally posted by jeepthing07
they sell home magnaflux kits for detecting cracks in engine blocks and stuff maybe that would work?

Im pretty sure these only work on steel since they use magnetism.

rooster300ex
12-22-2008, 01:37 PM
Originally posted by soyo
get you a little propane torch and lightly start heating the area, once the oil starts to heat up it will start coming from the cracks. are you going to weld the cracks once you find them?

The motor is out of the frame and the oil is drained, and its been upside down for awhile. No oil will come out. As for welding the cracks as soon as I find them I will soon after. You can kinna see the small cracks, but I can't tell where they start and end.

soyo
12-22-2008, 10:26 PM
once you heat it you will see them, try it, there is still enough oil there to boil!

John451
12-26-2008, 01:52 PM
Just take the dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut the problem section of the motor out, buy a new quad, take the motor out of that, cut the same section out, and weld that section into your motor and you're ready to ride. This method is 100% effective..

dalejiw25
12-30-2008, 03:38 AM
Place a Duncan Racing Decal over the crack. It will not only stop the leak.... You will gain 340 horse power.

motox92
12-30-2008, 06:09 AM
Just replace the case....

John451
12-30-2008, 03:19 PM
Originally posted by dalejiw25
Place a Duncan Racing Decal over the crack. It will not only stop the leak.... You will gain 340 horse power.

Aww shyt das how dem pros does it..

motox92
12-30-2008, 03:22 PM
lmao

01-01-2009, 10:24 AM
Originally posted by rooster300ex
The motor is out of the frame and the oil is drained, and its been upside down for awhile. No oil will come out. As for welding the cracks as soon as I find them I will soon after. You can kinna see the small cracks, but I can't tell where they start and end.

take a pencil and put it in the cracks and fllow them as long as possible then go from there, did this with my warrior casing!

scottsworld
01-02-2009, 05:53 PM
just start and end the weld farther then you think the crack is,and i hope you are a good tig welder to weld that cast aluminuim

John451
01-02-2009, 08:20 PM
Just take your motor apart, sandcast a mold of the case, fill it with molten steel, let it harden, then weld the cracks from the inside and out.

motox92
01-03-2009, 05:55 AM
If you take the whole motor apart it makes more sense to just replace the casing

Black R/T
01-03-2009, 08:38 AM
finally something i can FOR SURE help with. im an NDT level 2 technician, so please dont think im just bull****ting you. what you need to do is dye penetrant test it. its a three part system, meaning there are 3 cans you need to get. the first is the dye, usually red, comes in a spray can but get a small paint brush to apply it with. spray the brush tip with the dye then paint it over the cracks. allow about 15 minutes for it to soak in if it is cold, 10 if your temp is close to 70F. it doesnt need to be applied heavy, just a nice coating. after this you need to clean the dye off of the metal. for this, they make a special spray, sort of like brake parts cleaner but way more effective. DO NOT SPRAY THIS **** ONTO THE METAL. it can wash the dye out of the cracks and you dont want that. instead, spray it onto a rag and wipe the dye off, might take some muscle, dont be afraid to scrub. the final part is the contrast spray. this stuff PULLS the dye back out of the metal and gives you a nice white contrast color so you can see all that pretty red dye. now that you found the cracks, chase em, and weld em. really easy if you're good with a tig. i would even get a piece of wax paper or a sheet of clear plastic like the ones they used to write on in school that went on those old time projectors. trace the red lines with a sharpie BEFORE you start welding. then, if the dye gets messed up for any reason, all you have to do is lay the original trace over your welds to see where else you need to weld. i know thats a long winded fix, but its only gonna cost you about 20 bucks. hope this helps.

now go ahead and paypal about 200 bucks to jppoupart@yahoo.com. haha