need advice building laeger framed quad

[brandonpeake]

I already have a 450R that I race Xc in GNCC and Mid south, I have an 87 250R i am restoring.
I am getting into Mx but i would like the mx bike to be able to ride some trils also , around here there are a few tracks - mx- then around then are alot of trails most are wide in xc regards.
So i am considering building a laeger narrow front with +2 arms and cr500 link, or building a laeger framem standard width with +1 and standard rear but I found a way to lets say make it more current like the new 450's


Is there going to be much difference since they would be the same width? Or should if I want a MX quad build a quad for that instead of making it not nas wide for some trail riding and by doing that make it not handle as good as it could.

Just looking for advice here.

Opinions facts whatever I am looking for some advice besides what I got in my head

[Master LTR450]

Hey are you going to do this or just talk about it forever?? Also why are you rebuilding your R? I thought it was the nicest stock R you ever seen? Well if you wanna just save time you can buy my bike.

[brandonpeake]

saw in person.
I am building another one.

anyways I was wanting advice on the a-arm narrow front frame topic

My 87 is totally stock not one you want to ride much I need a bike that is Mx friendly but still not too wide to ride the trails,

PM me info or post here on your bike i might be interested.


props nice bike what is that quad tech piece behind the shock, it is sitting behind the shock toward the foot peg


Also what rear end does your bike have?, It looks to be an aftermarket frame but I was just curious

[rustyATV]

It's a full Roll Design chassis, and I think all of their rear ends were no-links.

[Master LTR450]

heres the specs and the qt parts behind the shock are radiator shrouds. Also it is a no link rear. everything on the bike is new or fresh.

Chassis | Suspension | Controls:

Frame: Roll Design Lobo
A Arms: Roll Design Gullwing +3 Lobo
Swingarm: Roll Design Lobo Gullwing
Steering Stem: Roll Design +1
Stbilizer: Roll Design
Axle: Rpm Dominator +4
Carrier: Custom
Locknut: Durablue
Hubs F|R: Baldwin fronts, LSR rears
Bars: Flexx
Throttle/Clutch Lever: ASV levers, Moose Throttle, Magura Clutch
Grips: OURY
Nerfs: IMS Wide Pegs with IMS heel guards
Bumper: Duncan Racing
Grab Bar: Roll Design Subframe
Front Shocks: Custom Axis Titanium X-Link LT
Rear Shock: custom Axis No-Link
Brake Lines: Galfer
Rotors F|R: Galfer Waves
Rims F|R: Hipers
Tires F|R: Holeshots MXR6



Body:

Plastic: Fullbore
Graphics|Seat Cover: Graphics custom being made, QT seat
Number Backgrounds: Custom
Handguards: None
Bar Pad: Flexx
Fuel Tank: Clark with QT cover



Engine|Drive System:

Cylinder|Head: Duncan PC2000 port and polish by Mark Baldwin
Bore & Stroke:
Displacement: 265
Cam:
Carburetor: A/S 38mm
Air Filter|Box: Pro-Tect still being made
Pipe|Silencer: Paul Turner Eliminator
Clutch|Plates: Hinson 8 Plate
Gearing F|R: 14,38
CDI|Killswitch: ESR CR 250 ignition
Cooling: Walsh Rad with QT Shrouds
Other: Atv innovations rear caliper, Duncan Quick change cover

[trx310R#24]

Originally posted by Master LTR450
heres the specs and the qt parts behind the shock are radiator shrouds. Also it is a no link rear. everything on the bike is new or fresh.

Chassis | Suspension | Controls:

Frame: Roll Design Lobo
A Arms: Roll Design Gullwing +3 Lobo
Swingarm: Roll Design Lobo Gullwing
Steering Stem: Roll Design +1
Stbilizer: Roll Design
Axle: Rpm Dominator +4
Carrier: Custom
Locknut: Durablue
Hubs F|R: Baldwin fronts, LSR rears
Bars: Flexx
Throttle/Clutch Lever: ASV levers, Moose Throttle, Magura Clutch
Grips: OURY
Nerfs: IMS Wide Pegs with IMS heel guards
Bumper: Duncan Racing
Grab Bar: Roll Design Subframe
Front Shocks: Custom Axis Titanium X-Link LT
Rear Shock: custom Axis No-Link
Brake Lines: Galfer
Rotors F|R: Galfer Waves
Rims F|R: Hipers
Tires F|R: Holeshots MXR6



Body:

Plastic: Fullbore
Graphics|Seat Cover: Graphics custom being made, QT seat
Number Backgrounds: Custom
Handguards: None
Bar Pad: Flexx
Fuel Tank: Clark with QT cover



Engine|Drive System:

Cylinder|Head: Duncan PC2000 port and polish by Mark Baldwin
Bore & Stroke:
Displacement: 265
Cam:
Carburetor: A/S 38mm
Air Filter|Box: Pro-Tect still being made
Pipe|Silencer: Paul Turner Eliminator
Clutch|Plates: Hinson 8 Plate
Gearing F|R: 14,38
CDI|Killswitch: ESR CR 250 ignition
Cooling: Walsh Rad with QT Shrouds
Other: Atv innovations rear caliper, Duncan Quick change cover


how much you want $40,000-$80,000 :devil:

j/k j/k but how much you want?

[Master LTR450]

Originally posted by trx310R#24
how much you want $40,000-$80,000 :devil:

j/k j/k but how much you want?

open to 5 figure offers but if you want it for $40000 i will let you have it. I look at it like theres one on ebay for $15000 and to me mine is nicer.

[250Renvy]

Originally posted by Master LTR450
open to 5 figure offers but if you want it for $40000 i will let you have it. I look at it like theres one on ebay for $15000 and to me mine is nicer.

You're seriously selling it? WHY? Was it just for something to do? I know a number of people prefer to build machines to ride them but I can't see recouping the money in this economy.

I'm sure both yours and Wes's are well worth $14000 when you consider the chassis used to cost $12000 alone.

[Master LTR450]

Originally posted by 250Renvy
You're seriously selling it? WHY? Was it just for something to do? I know a number of people prefer to build machines to ride them but I can't see recouping the money in this economy.

I'm sure both yours and Wes's are well worth $14000 when you consider the chassis used to cost $12000 alone.

If someone offers me the right amount and is ready to pony up with the $$$ i will let it go, i will by no means be giving it away though thats for sure. And dont worry if this one sells i will do another except it wont be a Roll since i already went that route. I am thinking along the lines of a full blown Walsh R next!!!!

[brandonpeake]

is this on ebay? If nopt someone ripped your pics?


But could either of you give me some advice on the narrow link fromk qith plus 2 arms compared to standard link plus 1, They should handle the same correct?

[250Renvy]

Originally posted by brandonpeake
is this on ebay? If nopt someone ripped your pics?


But could either of you give me some advice on the narrow link fromk qith plus 2 arms compared to standard link plus 1, They should handle the same correct?

Brandon, Brandon, Brandon, I don't know what you are not getting about the frame's that you need to keep asking over and over and over and over.

Of course they WON'T handle the same. Otherwise what was the point of coming up with a narrow frame design?

The narrow frame is supposed to create less bumpstear, and gives more travel because you use wider a-arms. A lot of people using +4's on the narrow front for MX don't like the amount of body roll you can get but.

+2's on a narrow or +1's on a standard will get you roughly the same width but you won't be using the same length shock.

[brandonpeake]

ok thanks, I know i have asked alot of questions and i apologize if I filled thje forum up with the same question but you anwsered my question about the handling. I had thought the narrow from and +2 would habdle differnt than ewg frame with +1's
thanks for the help.

I am asking alot of question b.c I was trying to dedidee which way I wanted to gto and I didnt want to buy a frame then realize I needed something different

[g9901920]

exactly what he ^ said was right.


Narrow frame: Standard frame:

plus 4 ------------------------------------plus 3

plus 3-------------------------------------plus 2

plus 2-------------------------------------plus 1

plus 1-------------------------------------stock

You said that you want to ride some mx and some trail.
plus 3 on a narrow frame would put you at plus 2 on a standard frame.
thats what i would choose if i were you.

[250Renvy]

Originally posted by brandonpeake
I am asking alot of question b.c I was trying to dedide which way I wanted to go and I didn't want to buy a frame then realize I needed something different


But I think it sounds like you are looking for the perfect setup, which may or may not exist.

If you have a 450R a properly setup 250R is going to be just as good if not better. The thing you must realize is there is NO wrong answer. The question is : is this good, and they are all good, just in different ways. All have been used by many pros in different applications all with much success.

If I can put this to bed for you I'll try here and hopefully you can make a decision before spring.

Laeger frame options:

1.Stock replacement - same as stock 250r geometry - Good all around stonger chromoly tubing.
2. Narrow front CR500 link design - Reduced bumpstear, allows use of longer a-arms, More rear travel, great for Jumping/MX or XC with skid plates.
3. Narrow front 250R link design - see above just avoids the use of different rear end.
4. Standard front CR500 link - More MX as you use +3 or +4 arms and less body roll, but longer travel in rear.

Roll Design
Narrow front no-link - Uses longer shock and avoids linkage design - great for MX, XC and desert.

Arens
Stock replacement

Walsh
Narrow front CR500 link design - similar to Laeger only no choice of standard footpegs.

LRD/Laeger
Aluminum chassis - stock replacement design - slightly lighter

Lonestar
1.Stock replacement pro-peg frame
2. Standard width front, no-link rear - see above.

The point is, you can't go wrong with any aftermarket frame unless it's thrashed. The designs are all good and all versatile. It's the shock setup that is important to your specific application as well as what width you run it at.