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View Full Version : tricks to keeping anti-fade tight?



2fiftosR
11-15-2008, 11:00 PM
ive recently bought a used anti-fade nut which i cant get to tighten properly, my gforce axle moves side to side after some riding.
wondering if anyone has any hints on how to fix it?
should i change the pinch bolt?

cheers

atvmxr
11-16-2008, 01:04 PM
blue loctite... anti-fads are a real b!@tch to keep tight

chamberlain31c
11-16-2008, 01:36 PM
i thought an anti fade was better then the factory nut. i thought the nut always was known for coming loose not the anti fade. so if they are hell to keep tight what is there purpose?

deathman53
11-16-2008, 01:40 PM
I rarely have mine loosen. Put it on, hand tighten, then use the tool they give you and tighten it 1/4 more turn. Ride some, it will loosen, then retighten. When tightening the locknut bolts, screw the 5mm allens in one bolt, tighten the other bolt, go back to the first, then second, do this for 3 passes. The gap should close pretty far. They stay tight pretty long when tightened this way.

atvmxr
11-16-2008, 10:32 PM
in my experience the baseline after market locknuts are better than stock... the anti fade is a big heat sink to keep the rear brake fade to a minumim. all the heating and cooling means expanding and shrinking, thus loosening up. what deathman posted does work, but IMO its still a pain compared to a base line durablue lock nut... the antifades look cooler though.. :)

hammerdog
11-23-2008, 06:34 AM
i just tighten mine with 2 pipe wrenches one to tighten and one to hold a back-up. done deal. how tight do you want it?

deathman53
11-23-2008, 07:22 AM
wern't not talking about stock locknuts, but the aftermarket that get hand tight + 1/4 turn and you tighten the pinch bolts. I never had any luck keeping the stock ones tight.

hammerdog
11-23-2008, 07:50 AM
these are 2 stroke engines, afterall these 250's are high preformance race machines right out of the box and need constant wrenching on. if ur not lookin to wrench then buy a 450r. same goes with snowmobiles. i continually go over my R even after a few hours of trail riding.

bushwesl
11-23-2008, 08:44 AM
Originally posted by hammerdog
if ur not lookin to wrench then buy a 450r.

Good one... :rolleyes:

peeping TOM
11-23-2008, 09:12 AM
whats with the 2 stroke comment? your basically saying 4 pokers dont need maintence, they have a axle nut just the same,im guessing your a 15 year old kid who knows jack ****/,back to topic i never had a problem with my durablue nut.

deathman53
11-23-2008, 09:35 AM
almost all honda sport quads have the same type of nut for the axle, 2 or 4 stroke has nothing to do with it. Infact the 250r nut is a direct fit for a 350x. 300ex, 400ex and 450r are the same diameter and spline, but the legnth of the threaded collar is different. I believe the thread diameter and pitch for all the nuts themselves are the same. My 86 200x uses the same type of nut, just a smaller spline pattern and diameter. When I used the stock locknut, I tightened it once, rode some, tightened again, cleaned the threads and red locktite, sometimes it would come loose, not too often. The bad part was to re-adjust it, you would have to heat the locknut to break the locktite.

As for the 2 vs 4 stroke maintence....I do more maintence on my 4 strokes and it costs more. Once a year replace reeds, change tranny fluid 4-5 rides, clean airfilter, check chain slack(hardly moves) and check compression every so on.

The 4 stroke is worse, change engine oil, change oil filter, change tranny fluid, clean airfilter, adjust valves, it needs the chain adjusted more and is a bigger/more expensive job to do it all. When things go wrong, the 4 stroke costs easy 3 times as much to fix. My ktm 4 stroke is even worse, 2 oil filters, 2 oil screens, its a major pita to drain, also when needed, getting to the spark plug requires the seat and tank removed from the bike, cant't say that about 2 strokes, most spark plugs are easily gotten to.