Cam shaft part question...

[4wheel4food]

While checking my valve clearances(to try and resolve typ. Predator 500 no cold start issue) I noticed that one of the C-clips in the cam towers cover(see attached pic from another post) was missing...I had a "mechanic I know"adjust my valves previously...I think he might have lost or left out this part...Just to be on the safe side I took off the clutch cover and did a thorough inspection of the lower cam chain area and valve train area and found nothing...My question is this, what exactly does this(these) clips do? When you set the cam(s) back in the head they don't move or "seem to go anywhere", so I don't quite understand the purpose of these C-clips in the 1st place..I notice they are called "stopper, bearing(s)...I plan on replacing the missing one, just trying to understand exactly what they do..Any info would be greatly appreciated...By the way, my intake clearance was zero(tight)..Exhaust was perfect(.010)...Surprise surpiriseThanks:rolleyes:

[katch26]

I cant remember off the top of my head but Im pretty sure those keep the came from sliding left to right in the cam tower

[U1arunit]

Originally posted by katch26
I cant remember off the top of my head but Im pretty sure those keep the came from sliding left to right in the cam tower
+1 Seems they keep the cam(s) from walking.

[4wheel4food]

Ok..Thanks...Like I said, when you put the cams back in the head they seem very snug...My question now is if the one has been "missing" since my last valve adjustment if this has possibly done any damage....It doesn't appear so(cams are smooth and within all measureable tolerances), but I guess time will tell...I have a couple on order from dealer and will install before putting it all back together...I can't see how this would have anything to do with the intake clearance being out of spec...I think this is just the typical Predator intake clearance issue....

[katch26]

another thing that could happen (not sure how likely) but it the cam without the clip at any point met with some resistance from the tower could spin the cam gear which would throw off you clearances.....I mean 0 is realllllly tight I mean like beyond my comprehension. I guess I would really need to know the shim size but you can only go down so far before the valves are out of spec

[4wheel4food]

I will measure the shims tonight...I can tell you just from visual inspection they are two different sizes(on the intake valves)...One is about twice as thick...
Of course, there are no numbers on either...Would it be a good idea at this point to put things back together(minus the mssing c-clip of course) and measure the intake clearances w/o the shims in place?
Just to see if the clearances are still zero? If they are, I assume a valve job might be in order...I find this hard to believe...Mainly b/c the bike runs great once you get it started...It is just the "typical" cold start issue that I am trying to resolve...Let me know what you think...Thanks..And yes, I will not "run" the bike until c-clips are installed...:)

[katch26]

yeah it sucks that the numbers wear off but you can just mic it and go from there

[4wheel4food]

Originally posted by 4wheel4food
I will measure the shims tonight...I can tell you just from visual inspection they are two different sizes(on the intake valves)...One is about twice as thick...
Of course, there are no numbers on either...Would it be a good idea at this point to put things back together(minus the mssing c-clip of course) and measure the intake clearances w/o the shims in place?
Just to see if the clearances are still zero? If they are, I assume a valve job might be in order...I find this hard to believe...Mainly b/c the bike runs great once you get it started...It is just the "typical" cold start issue that I am trying to resolve...Let me know what you think...Thanks..And yes, I will not "run" the bike until c-clips are installed...:)
I measured the shims with a caliper and they are 1.60mm and 1.80mm if that means anything to anyone...Guess i will do some more research...:)

[4wheel4food]

This is a "verbatim copy" from my reply on predatorowners.com...So excuse the duplication if you have read this there...
I am just trying to get any help I can...Thanks... :)
Now I have a problem....aarrrrggghhhh...

I got the shims and clips installed and had the clearance(s) on the intakes(and exhaust)correct...Now here's the NEW problem...Now when I try and turn the flywheel manually to check everything out, it only goes about one complete revolution(CW or CCW) and STOPS...I mean dead cold...Clank..Like metal to metal...Like I said you can go about one complete revolution(Fwd or backwards) and then it just stops....I don't wanna crank it anymore for fear of completely screwing something up...I had the timing mark(T) and the cams at TDC when I put everything back together....Does this sound familiar...It seems pretty bad to me, but what the he$$ do I know...Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated...IF anybody would be willing to give me advice over the phone just PM your phone # and I will call you when it's convenient for you or just reply to this post...At this point, if I don't figure it out, I guess it's back to the butcher/mechanic....Please help...Thanks

[katch26]

sparkplug in?

if so then you will hit some resistance until the cam decompressor kicks out. Try turning it over with the plug out....dont turn it over backwards though. The decomp will make like a loud metallic ping-pop