camber, caster, toe, oh my!

[dbc112]

So, I purchased a set of stock 400ex a-arms, and diamondj widening and shock relo kit.

That said, I was attempting to prepare myself to swap the stock 300ex a-arms, with ltz400 shocks, 400ex a-arms, and wide/relo kit.


With stock a-arms I know a lot isnt adjustable etc.. So what should I worry about? Just setting the camber correctly?

No idea where to start, these guides are greek to me. Any help would be great.


And yes, I did do a search, but everything was techy. I need laymans terms. Like, take the bolt and adjust, turn the tierod so the top of the wheel is x inches vs bottom etc.


Also, anything for removing the wheels and hubs from the existing a-arm?

[54warrior]

If these are all stock parts, the camber and caster are NOT adjustable. What you see is what you get. You can adjust the toe though by loosening the lock nut on the tierod and turning the tie rod to adjust in/out. One side has right hand threads and the other has left hand threads.

[dbc112]

Thats good news, any reccomendation on settings for TOE?

I have to laugh btw, TOE used to be a game in college called titty on elbow. Pretty self explanatory. Partys were very crowded.

[dbc112]

So how do you get the upper a-arm off the wheel hub? Mine is so old its rusted on...

[54warrior]

I don't recommend using a pickle fork. If you smack the spindle with a hammer near where the balljoint enters the spindle, it should break loose.

I'd try using a small, like 2# or 5# sledge first. You don't have to be He-Man on it either.

[dbc112]

I tried, ended up splitting the rubber housing and bleeding some of the lube... This thing is stuck on.


I also put some penetrating oil on.. I guess this is what 20 years will do (mine is an 88)


Should I remove everything 1st? All king nuts tie rods etc... Just trying to get upper off at this point. Trying to leave the brake lines attached.

[54warrior]

Well, you might as well remove the tie rods. And if you want the ball joint to seperate from the the spindle, your going to have to at least loosen up the nuts some, you can back them off enough so that they're loose, but still grabbing so that when it does eventually break free, the two parts won't go flying apart.

[PUREBREED450R]

HEY, DID THIS THE OTHER DAY.....ALL I DID FOR GETTING THE BOTTOMS OUT
LOOSEN NUT ...TAKE IT OFF, TAKE A LARGE PUNCH, OR OLD 1/2 INCH DRIVE ( THE WHOLE TIME THIS WILL BE AT AN ANGLE)
PLACE ONE END FIRMLY ON THE END OF THE BALL JOINT, THE OTHER WILL BE PRESSED AGAINST THE A-ARM.

THE KEY IS NOT 100 HITS ITS A FEW MEANING FULLONES, JUST NEEDS A SHOCK, LIKE A WAKE UP THEN SHOULD POP RIGHT OUT.
TOOK US LIKE 5 HITS THEN BOOP RIGHT OFF.

I KEPT THE NUT RIGHT AT THE END OF MY BALL JOINT SO IF YOU MISS OR SOMETHING SLIPS YOU DONT DESTROY THE THREADS. OH P.S I RIPPED MY RUBBER BOOT A YEAR AGO WHEN I DID MINE THE FIRST TIME. LIVE N LEARN

THE TOP ONES MIGHT BE EASIER GETTIN OFF WITH THE QUAD ON THE BACK GRAB BAR. SAME PROCESS.

[dbc112]

Ended up removing tie rods and a-arms from frame. Then was able to remove lower with a quick hammer hit.. Once lower was off, then I could turn the spindle upside down and get at the upper... 1st one was about 45 min.. second came off in 5 minutes...

[John451]

When i got my diamond j i didnt even take that off. I left the hubs on. only took the wheel off, unbolted the arms from frame, slid the plates in, bolted em up.