300ex Handlebar switch set, Lighting & Starter Kill Switch

[dbc112]

Mine has shorted and need replacement... What will fit? Any other models?


Seems expensive, cant really find one for a good price... any suggestions? Would rather not hot wire, only really need starter button and on/off.. Dont run any headlights or taillights.. maybe could fab something....

if you only want a starter button, get one of these...i run one as a starter button on my 400ex:
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&navTitle=Electrical&webTypeId=205&webCatId=20&prodFamilyId=9314#vehicleSelect

[dbc112]

Does this kill the engine as well? Need to start and stop, thats it. Also what model do I specify for a 300ex? Seems to only have dirt bikes listed as available.


Thanks!

get that exact one...it does not cut the engine...that is what the key is for...or add a tether switch to kill the motor

[dbc112]

I have a 300ex so no key...

the url takes me to the the xr100r switch...


I wonder if I could hot wire something, like a male female plug to kill the engine. I do have a kill teather that is not wired in though.. Not sure how or where. On the forums someone posted a wiring diagram but it is to fuzzy to read the wire colors etc...


Maybe something at an electronics store.. basically you only need to complete the circuit to start, and dissconect to stop (I guess this is what a kill switch does and teather as well)


I will have to put some thought into it... Also, my starter button works (forgot to mention in title) sooo... just need on off I guess.

Glad I could work out my thoughts on the forum...

i had a 300ex and had many friends that had 250x's all have keys...i beet you have one hidden that is on all the time or it was wired so that it is on all the time

just order one of them...it don't matter what bike it is for...

you will cut all the wires to the little box on your bars then you will take your stock switch apart and see what wires run to the start button...there will be 2 wires coming from the switch you purchased and then you will splice the wires together...

as far as your tether...you can do the same thing, but use the wires from the run/stop/run switch...one wire from the tether will ground somewhere and the other will go to one of the wires coming form your r/s/r switch

it is possible that the tether was at one time wired to the r/s/r switch and that is why it don't work now

if you do the starter button, you will need to get one that is not a toggle switch and the one i showed you is nice because it has a nifty little clamp that holds it to the bars so it looks professional...not half assed

[dbc112]

Thanks for the info...

I have a modified 250x with a 300ex national motor (built by gt thunder) its mega fast..

I plan to keep the stock starter button and wire the on off to the teather... however, I am not sure if the starter button will function withou the on-off working. Most likely it will.


if not, I will get one of those buttons from rocky mountain.


in terms of an on/off key, nothing came with the wiring harness and engine... .

Now I have to leave work early and get the solder gun out...

my tether is wired through my r/s/r button...you should be good to go like this...because the starter button and the stop/run/stop button are completely different circuits, even though they are in the same housing...

the 250x's still had a key...it must have been wired to be like the key was on all the time...


mega fast...good

[dbc112]

So now I am at another crossroad.

I have a new on/off/run switch, still no key.

I plan to hardwire the key to always on (r and B wires splice together)... Not sure if this will drain the battery but will remove the fuse to eliminate any connection from the battery.


2 other issues now.

1. Reverse inhibtor- dont care about this, want to remove. Do I ground all wires?

2. Clutch switch- Can I just connect the wires associated and ground? I need this to be a complete circuit in order to start

3. Neutral indicator? Do I have to be in neutral to start? Can I ground.


Basically, I want run/start/off to work, thats is it. Dont care about lights or anything else that is unnecessary. Obviously the reg rectifier and CDI are a must.

Little help? Attached wire diagram, or a pic of one. If you save it is in high res from my camera. You should be able to zoom to each location clearly.

If you cant see, pm me and I will email full pic

[wvbball27]

i know this is a very very very old thread but im having the same problem. i just need the basics wired up!

[Maddog300EX]

Originally posted by dbc112
So now I am at another crossroad.

I have a new on/off/run switch, still no key.

I plan to hardwire the key to always on (r and B wires splice together)... Not sure if this will drain the battery but will remove the fuse to eliminate any connection from the battery.


2 other issues now.

1. Reverse inhibtor- dont care about this, want to remove. Do I ground all wires?

2. Clutch switch- Can I just connect the wires associated and ground? I need this to be a complete circuit in order to start

3. Neutral indicator? Do I have to be in neutral to start? Can I ground.


Basically, I want run/start/off to work, thats is it. Dont care about lights or anything else that is unnecessary. Obviously the reg rectifier and CDI are a must.

Little help? Attached wire diagram, or a pic of one. If you save it is in high res from my camera. You should be able to zoom to each location clearly.

If you cant see, pm me and I will email full pic


Yes hard-wire the key will drain the battery so its good that you will pull the fuse


1: This is not hard just Ground the GRAY wire going to the Reverse Switch it is under a cover bye the Rear brake Lever.
NOTE: The Reverse Indicator Light (RED) will not work and the Neutral Indicator Light (GREEN) will be light in Reverse.

2: Yes the Green wire of the 2 wires is a ground so short/hard-wire them or ground the other one.
If you do it this way skip step 3

3: Yes if your Clutch in not pulled in or the switch is bad. You have to be in neutral to start
Yes you can Ground it the same way as i told you with the Reverse Switch in step 1 BUT
you will no longer have a Neutral Indicator Light (GREEN)! in Neutral it will stay on all of the time
If you do it this way skip step 2


Just a side note Safe-Gard your Electrical system any wires that did go to the Indicator Lights N/R and Headlight OR any loose wires
cap with Heat Shrink Tubing or Twist-on wire-nuts and Tape (DO NOT JUST USE TAPE!!!)


I will Attached a wire diagram with a bit of info on it to help out

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz13/LTmaddog420/300exwirediagram.jpg