who 2 go to for motor work?

[goldhatch94]

ok my stock 86R is going to need a rebuild i want to get a bit more kick out of it... is there any good shops that i can send my motor or top end to? and any good tips to do to it?

[fastrnrik]

I use a small shop in Moultrie, GA called Mystic Motorsports. Derek has built several motors for me, from mild stock-ish motors to full out race motors and every one has been perfect, and just as importantly- reliable. He only works on 2 strokes, and his specialty is 250R's.

The last motor he built for me was an LRD 350 PV that came in an R I bought. It was bad fast, but after Derek got done with it, it ran better, and was w-a-y faster. I've been running TT with that bike all year, and it still runs perfect.

I have used several of the big name shops over the years, and I will take Mystic over any of them.

If you're interested, PM me and I'll give you his info.

[goldhatch94]

pm'ed!!

[cdrookie]

c-leigh;)

[1promodfan]

Originally posted by cdrookie
c-leigh;)

X2......Neil is the man, and VERY honest!!!

[goldhatch94]

any more info then just his name? maybe loaction? phone number? email?

[Master LTR450]

Send him a pm I'm sure he will have no problem helping you.

[Scottt89]

If your in Jersey, you may want to look @ Tony Kellner-(570) 366-1804, pretty sure that is the correct #. He's done some work for me and some friends. Really good prices too IMO. Just throwing that out there.

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by Master LTR450
Send him a pm I'm sure he will have no problem helping you.

agree'd.......... he knows his way around a 2-stroke and as mentioned, is honest and reasonable. :cool:

[1promodfan]

Neil Pritchard, out of Nashville, NC.........he goes by C-Leigh Racing up here......in memory of his daughter

[fastrnrik]

I have never used Neil personally, but I have never heard nothing but good things about him and his work. If I didn't have such a good relationship with Derek at Mystic Motorsports, I would try him out. I don't think you could go wrong if you used him.

[Master LTR450]

This is who to contact hands down from what i have heard!!! I know that were my cylinder is going when she blows!! http://www.exriders.com/vbb/member.php?s=&action=getinfo&userid=8757

[Hughes#34]

i suggest contacting Mark Baldwin, Baldwin Motorsports out of kingsville, ohio..(440) 224-2734..he does amazing work and can get you setup for whatever type of riding you perfer

[dunatic]

Originally posted by goldhatch94
ok my stock 86R is going to need a rebuild i want to get a bit more kick out of it... is there any good shops that i can send my motor or top end to? and any good tips to do to it?

I have built (and rebuilt) over 30 "R" motors in the past 20 years.

Hands down, if your on a budget here are some simple things to do, that dont cost a ton of money and you can feel them in the seat of your pants and your wallet:

1. Bore to the next size with fresh piston, rings, bearings and seals throughout.

2. Shave the head .030-.035" and run the "CR" gasket.

3. Lighten the flywheel. Send it to Dave Moore Racing in Oregon, he can do it the usually the same day and have it right back out to you.

4. Install a Hinson/ModQuad/RPM counter balancer holder-timing advancer. Set timing to 3-3.5 degrees advanced. Set the stator to pick up gap and the new NGK BR8ES (resistor type makes more power) spark plug gap to .018".

5. Remove the spark plug boot from the coil wire. Cut approx 1/4" off and reinstall it.

6. Install a boysen RAD valve. CR type.

7. If you are running a Keihen carb (PJ, PWK or AirStryker)

a. Install a DEG or DEJ needle...in the 3rd position (middle).

b. 175-180 main jet

c. If over 180psi cranking compression, install a 50 pilot. If under 180 psi, install a 52 pilot.

d. turn the air screw out 1.5-1.75 turns.

8. Take compressed air (with the fuel tank 1/2 or more full) and blow back up thru the fuel tank petcock lightly to loosen any and all sediment that has collected around the screen. Remove tank shake well and dump everything out. You may need to do this a couple of times to get all the particles removed.

9. Remove the "inline" fuel filter (if you are running one) and replace the hose from the petcock to the carb.

10. Replace the clutch fibers with OEM factory plates. Take the steels and scratch both sides across 80 grit sand paper in various directions a lot. This will get you extra bite. Soak the new fibers in ATF (Type F) over night. Install new Toomey or Barnett springs and install (if not done already) the 88-89 clutch update from Honda.

11. Tranny fluid.

a. If you have lots of time on your hands to maintain you bike, then run cheap NAPA Type F automatic transmission fluid and change it after every ride. It runs $1-2 per quart and you only need a quart.

b. If you only plan to change it 1-2 times a year, then run a synthetic MTF (manual transmission fluid), like Torco or Redline. It runs $9-12 per quart.

12. Replace or clean and re-oil your air filter. If running the stock air box, remove the lid completely. Only if you submerged the air box will this be an issue.

13. Chain and Sprockets

a. If you like the gearing you have (such as 13-39 or 3:1 ratio). Install a 15 tooth front sprocket and a 45 tooth rear. Then replace your (probably $100+ high zuit oring bad boy) chain with the best non-oring chain you can find. I like the GP HD. 7250 lb tensile strength and their like $35-45 (so you can replace them 3x for the same price). By changing the gearing as such, you do a couple of different things.

First, youve added several teeth at are engaged to the chain at all times by going to more teeth. This causes less wear on the chain and sprockets by disbursing the load across more links and teeth.

Second, it requires a longer chain to reach around those bigger sprockets, thus you have more links that engage less per revolution.

Third, by doing so, you've decreased the load on the tranny, clutch and drive train, by increasing the load to more links and more teeth at the same time. Less shock and pull as the swing arm runs thru it's arc and the chain tightens and loosens.

Fourth, the resistance on all those orings causes drag. Running a non-oring chain will get more HP to the rear wheels. They do require more maintenance, but you should be oiling your chain after every ride and wash anyways.

[pdxbigfoot]

This is where its at!
http://www.ledperformanceengines.com/index.htm
If you dont know who he is do some diggin. His engines have powered many national champions quads and hes KNOWS the 250R.
A world of knowledge and a awesome human being to boot....you realy cant go wrong.
I pick up my MX tuned 330 Monday.

[Hughes#34]

dunatic had some pretty good advice..there are just a few things i dont really agree on. I would have to say not to install a rad valve. you get a lot better snap off a stock cr250 cage, and then when your replacing your clutch fibers, i've always been told to just wet sand the steels with like 230grit or something close just enough to get the residue off them so they dont slip. I would think sanding them with 80grit would cause the fibers to wear faster. and last running synthetic tranny fluid causes clutches to burn up fast. i would run honda hp trans which is designed for 250rs..its only like $7 a bottle and will save you money in the long run

[dunatic]

all of your suggestions are nearly the same, but these that I mentioned I have done myself over and over and work with perfection every time.

As for the clutch steels, I dont grind them into the 80 grit, but just scratch the surface to remove the machined surface smoothness and to give the fibers something to but into.

Another thing that is overlooked when you step up to the stiff springs, is the clutch cable and lever.

Install a new factory OEM cable and an Applied Racing EZ pull ball bearing lever. Google search them. There is no substitute or lever like it. Cable will run you $20+ and the lever is $35+. Ive installed these on full on lockups and lil kids can pull it in under full load.

[elbine69]

Originally posted by 1promodfan
X2......Neil is the man, and VERY honest!!!

x3 He does great work!