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View Full Version : LT80 stuck in "high gear"



gentner8
10-20-2008, 02:54 PM
I know this quad is a cvt, but it seems like its stuck in the high setting. It will take off super slow and has no power, but will reach top speed. Motor runs and idles well. Compression is at 130 psi.

Can somebody point me in the right direction and maybe a schematic to work on it?

I know these quads are simple, but I have never worked on anything like it and just need a lil help.

ww228king
10-20-2008, 03:01 PM
sounds like a weak torq spring on the clutch... unless someone put in too heavy rollers...

gentner8
10-20-2008, 03:05 PM
As for the bike, I just picked it up and its my first LT. Assume the worst, like the previous owner did NO maintenance.

Where would I find these parts on the bike, and what would I need to buy to fix it? How much would a trans rebuild run?

ww228king
10-20-2008, 03:08 PM
the man that can help you more would be Mr. LT80...
this is something that can be done very easy...
what year is it?

gentner8
10-20-2008, 03:11 PM
To be honest, I dont know what year it is. I think late 80's to early 90's.

Paging mr "LT80"

is this the same guy I have read that build these motors up?

ww228king
10-20-2008, 03:16 PM
lol....thats him

LT80
10-21-2008, 08:12 AM
BZZZT BZZZT...Huston we have a copy.LOL

You will need to pull the clutch cover off and do clutch maintenence.
I feel that you will find the rollers in the front clutch all buggered up.
If so, you'll need all 6 new rollers plus if the rollers are as bad I suspect, the plate on top of the rollers and the variator will be gouged whitch means new ones of those also.
About 60 bucks for all that if needed.
Get in there and let us know what you've found.
You'll also need to pull off the rear clutch and check for bad bearings.:)

gentner8
10-21-2008, 09:37 AM
Do you have the procedure and diagram anywhere? With my ADD, I need to make sure I have a backup plan for re-assembly.


BTW LT80 Can I talk to you about hopping this little thing up for an adult to ride? Im looking to set it up for the wife, but still have it fun for me too once in awhile.

Last, how do I figure out what year it really is? I just want to make sure the parts will work.

LT80
10-23-2008, 07:44 AM
1987 to 2006 parts will fit. :)

gentner8
11-12-2008, 11:07 AM
Whats the procedure to replace the rollers and the belt on one of these? How long will it take the average backyard mechanic? I need to have this thing running soon before my daughter dis-owns me.

Not to be a p.i.t.a., but do you know that part numbers off the top of your head?

LT80
11-12-2008, 12:31 PM
Remove skid plate. Remove plastic to footpegs. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the footpegs and tilt them forward. You will be moving them around as they are in the way. Remove the clutch cover bolts (5mm allen and 8mm socket) not forgeting that the bolt at the 3 O'clock position on the lil cover needs to come out.
It usually takes a few whacks to get the clutch cover loose/off.
Remove the injector drive (lil black plastic piece on the end of the crankshaft (leave that out if you wish to go to pre-mix).
Use an impact wrench to remove the front and rear clutch nuts.
front: clean/inspect the rollers for flat spots, the hub for gouges/grooves, and the lil plate that covers the rollers for the same.
Only use a dab of grease on each roller for install. Hold the clutch like your holding a donut by the hole as to not let the roller plate come off the rollers. You let it come off, you take it back apart to make sure the rollers didn't flip. Slide the clutch down onto the crankshaft with side pressure (again to keep the plate in place). Align the roller plate notch with the keyway that's on the crankshaft (it only sticks out a lil). Use a light and make double sure that noth is on the key. Now you put in the spacer. That'll hold things in place as you....
Rear clutch:: check the bearings for bumpy spots. Lightly sand (in lil circiular motions) the contact patch on the rear pads. Put belt in rear clutch and push the belt down in (this allows for the belt to be loose for front clutch install). You now put the rear clutch back on the gearbox shaft. The belt goes on the front at the same time.
Now you finish the front.
Put big washer on (this is why you need the belt slack), and the outer clutch face. The clutch face washer is a spring washer. Holding the front clutch down, now use impact to tighten the front nut then the rear.
This may take a hour or 2 for the novice. I can do it in 15 min or less.:)

http://www.nrys.com/fiche_select.asp
You can look up the part numbers there. They would be happy to get the parts in and ship to you.
Front clutch is transmission 1
Rear clutch is transmission 2

gentner8
11-13-2008, 03:36 PM
is there an auto part number that would work OK as an alternative to the suzuki part for the belt?

LT80
11-14-2008, 05:41 AM
No. I see there is a aftermarket belt out now tho.
Nothing wrong w/stock. They wear forever.

gentner8
11-17-2008, 01:57 PM
It figures, we have the nice late year warm weather and Im swamped with things to do. My time finally frees up and its cold, windy and rainy all the time.

I wonder how the wife will take to this project being done in the kitchen??:devil:

ziemer
12-15-2008, 06:22 PM
Excellent info below. Quick question, is there anything that should be or not be greased? (Outside of the obvious) Also, do you use loc-tite on any of the hardware?

Thanks!


Originally posted by LT80
Remove skid plate. Remove plastic to footpegs. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the footpegs and tilt them forward. You will be moving them around as they are in the way. Remove the clutch cover bolts (5mm allen and 8mm socket) not forgeting that the bolt at the 3 O'clock position on the lil cover needs to come out.
It usually takes a few whacks to get the clutch cover loose/off.
Remove the injector drive (lil black plastic piece on the end of the crankshaft (leave that out if you wish to go to pre-mix).
Use an impact wrench to remove the front and rear clutch nuts.
front: clean/inspect the rollers for flat spots, the hub for gouges/grooves, and the lil plate that covers the rollers for the same.
Only use a dab of grease on each roller for install. Hold the clutch like your holding a donut by the hole as to not let the roller plate come off the rollers. You let it come off, you take it back apart to make sure the rollers didn't flip. Slide the clutch down onto the crankshaft with side pressure (again to keep the plate in place). Align the roller plate notch with the keyway that's on the crankshaft (it only sticks out a lil). Use a light and make double sure that noth is on the key. Now you put in the spacer. That'll hold things in place as you....
Rear clutch:: check the bearings for bumpy spots. Lightly sand (in lil circiular motions) the contact patch on the rear pads. Put belt in rear clutch and push the belt down in (this allows for the belt to be loose for front clutch install). You now put the rear clutch back on the gearbox shaft. The belt goes on the front at the same time.
Now you finish the front.
Put big washer on (this is why you need the belt slack), and the outer clutch face. The clutch face washer is a spring washer. Holding the front clutch down, now use impact to tighten the front nut then the rear.
This may take a hour or 2 for the novice. I can do it in 15 min or less.:)

http://www.nrys.com/fiche_select.asp
You can look up the part numbers there. They would be happy to get the parts in and ship to you.
Front clutch is transmission 1
Rear clutch is transmission 2