New ARENS nerfs

[Jnine]

Hello guys:

I have some new nerfs, but the question is; should they come polished, or do you want them bare? Let me know! I have 500 of them, but I'm trying to decide on the polishing part. Maybe we can have and EXRiders intro sale!

JA

[Pappy]

polished

or just say bling:D

[beerock]

saweeet! id say polished, but why not sell em both ways?

[Juggalo]

noo!! polished nerfs are a waste of money. go with normal. there is no reason for polished nerfs and i for one am not ready to shell out another 50 bucks or whatever for shiny nerfs. if you must just sell both.

[Jnine]

Hello guys:

Actually I was thinking of polishing all of them, and selling them for the same price as the normal ones. I want to be in the $149 to $169 range for them. What do you think?

JA

[Pappy]

Originally posted by Jnine
Hello guys:

What do you think?

JA

i think ya need to post a pic!!! c'mon .....perty please:p

[Pro400EXC]

Yah John,lest see a pic bro,also they gonna be pro-pegged or not?

thanks John,you be the shiznit...

[Red Rooster]

I say polished and un-polished. Cause look someone might have a brushed aluminum bumper and grabbar, or a chrome bumper with lots of shiney little do-dad addons. And, some people just won't want the maintence of keeping them polished. BUT, we got to see a pic, do it for a fellow Michigander!

[Jnine]

Hello Guys:

I haven't shot the photos yet, but I will have them next week for sure. I was kind of leaning towrds polishing them all however, because there are some benefits too it when welding aluminum.

As some of you may know, the aluminum surface oxidizes very quickly. THe result is when you go to weld, the oxidation layer takes much more energy to burn through before you get to the raw aluminum underneath. We had this aluminum made just for the nerfs, and it came straight from the mill. I had it made because it was possible to get a better alloy that way, and the other benefit was that it would not be on some distributors shelf oxidizing for 6 months before we began to work it. However, you still get a little oxidization, and you have to take it into account when you weld, and you get a little black soot next to the weld. (It wipes off with your finger, but it is a pain in the butt for us!) If we polish the nerfs afterwards it just makes everything look even better. Actually they look fantastic. Even better than I hoped, and I think you guys will like them.

Talk to you later.

JA

[Texan32]

John,

Was there any word on weither or not they have pegs? I really like the looks of the AC Propeg nerfs, but i don't see where they get the kahonas to charge nearly 300 bucks for them:mad:

[Jnine]

Hello guys:

There have been a couple questions about pegs, and whether we had built any with the pegs built in.... The answer is these nerfs bolt to your exisiting pegs. We predrilled everything we could, and we use the stock holes when we can, but Honda only put one hole it their peg to work with. THat means you have to drill the other. If they had put a second in, it would help you out a little, but we did give you the pilot hole in the nerf to work with.

There are two big reasons I did not do the "pro-peg" setup. The first is that anyone who has ever had an aluminum peg can tell you that they polish off very quickly, and that makes them slippery & dangerous. No way do I want my(or anyone elses) foot sliding off! The second is that I know some companies will simply weld a tube to a post, and then bolt it to your frame. Again, I've seen some of these fail at the weld, and that is another dangerous situation. We worked on those for Cannondale, and you wouldn't believe the force on the pegs. Sure the post is easy to make, (and cheap... maybe $5 tops) but I'm not willing to bet my leg (or yours) on that type of setup. Honda uses a very thick casting because they needed strength. In reality, there is no reason for replacing the peg. It's actually a pretty good part. However, if we ever do it it will be cast stainless peg that will work with the nerf. For now I passed on that however.

Hope that helps you out.

JA

[400grl]

Sounds awesome! Polished will be great......good to hear of more competition in the nerf area!!! And really cool that you will come on here and listen to everyone's input! Can't wait to see some pics! :D

[QuadTrix6]

Originally posted by Juggalo
noo!! polished nerfs are a waste of money. go with normal. there is no reason for polished nerfs and i for one am not ready to shell out another 50 bucks or whatever for shiny nerfs. if you must just sell both.


good point just do reg metal, and an exriders sale would be very cool :blah

[250exen]

what quads do you make them for???:confused:

[Sparks425Ex]

When are we gonna get to see some pictures. They sounds cool. Personally I would rather have a Pro Peg. And when the teeth wear off I would go out and buy the Rath Pro Pegs Teeth.

[mxracer111]

i think it is cool that you are getting into more than just frames.....that is great. but the only thing that i am afraid of is that you get too big......i think you should focus on frames and a arms......that stuff......keep your prices low like you have been...and your quality up on the parts. in my opinion some companies like Walsh and Roll.....they got too big for themselves for what they could handel.....that is why there is always a huge backorder for their products.

[beerock]

i think you should definately make pro peg nerfs john!
Add the stainless pegs to them like the gibsons pro pegs.... and sell em for less then 200 and your phone will ring off the hook!

[honda400exrider]

When are we gonna get to see some pictures. They sounds cool. Personally I would rather have a Pro Peg. And when the teeth wear off I would go out and buy the Rath Pro Pegs Teeth.

what is the rath pro peg teeth?

[Jnine]

For the record, Gibson doesn't make those nerfs themselves. The guy who used to make them for Graydon makes them, and that is why they look exactly the same. Doesn't really matter who makes them however.

[beerock]

ya true it dont matter.

Good to know though :)

But YOU SHOULD make pro pegs with stainless pegs!!!!

HINT HINT! ;)
the way you price things I bet youll end up outselling ac pro pegs.

cha ching!

[Pappy]

you can always bring a set to cumberland for my pre sale approval;) ofcourse i may have to take them home for a test to see how they fit:p



hurry up.....im about to order some new nerfs....my old ones just dont look...well they aint new:devil

[Juggalo]

i agree with the pro peg comments. after going to a pro peg nerf i realized i'll never go back to a standard stock peg with nerfs setup again.

[Jnine]

Sorry I forgot to answer the person who asked what the nerfs fit...

We're making them for the 400EX, Raptor, Suzuki/Kawasaki, and the 250R. Actually I should try a set on the 300EX also.

I'll get some digital photos this weekend. I have to have photos in by the end of next week for an ad.

Don't worry about the "getting too big" thing... We've got some great help, and we'll NEVER stop hitting the races, dunes, and trails. Talking with other riders like you find on this site is one of the things I like best about this sport, and I think it helps make better parts for all of us. After all, I want good parts too, even if I have to make my own! Thats how I got into this...

I'll let you know what else we have coming. Maybe I shouldn't do this because the competition will find out, but oh well. We're going to make them anyway. SKIDPLATES - Both for the main frame, and the swingarm. We've already built & tested several, and they are coming... BUMPERS - Worked on the design this morning, and the tubing is to be made by the mill after the holidays. GRAB BARS.... I know how we're going to build this one, and to be honest it looks pretty much like any other, but how creative can you be with a grab bar? It probably will have 1 cool feature however..... BEARING CARRIER: We're working on this one, and I want to manufacture this in a more efficient manner. Also it would be a stronger way to build it, but I have to get the price in line. I'm trying to decide on 2 different bearings as well. I want one bearing in particular, but I'm not sure I can make it work. NEW 400EX FRAME: Lots of work, but Andrew is handling it well. Damn it takes a lot to get a new frame going however. 400EX SWINGARM; This will be VERY trick, but no details until it is ready.. I guarantee you will not see another like it, and it will be impossible to copy. SUBFRAME: This isn't a "for sure" item for us to build, but I have been playing with this one. To be honest, moving the battery & airbox is presenting about as many problems as it solves, and I'm not sure it is worth moving them. SOmetimes I will work on a part and then let it set for a little while until I can reconsider & possibly find a better solution. That is where the subframe project is at... The best solution may be to build one just the way it is and then send a grab bar with it.

Anyway, keeping secrets is hard some times, especially from fellow riders, and it's always exciting to talk about the new stuff. Talk to you later.

[mxracer111]

just dont let your prices get outrageous....and dont let your backorders get ridiculous like walsh and roll....that kid of defeats the perpose. if you can keep everything readily available.....youll be #1

[Evan]

Originally posted by Jnine
Hello guys:

There have been a couple questions about pegs, and whether we had built any with the pegs built in.... The answer is these nerfs bolt to your exisiting pegs. We predrilled everything we could, and we use the stock holes when we can, but Honda only put one hole it their peg to work with. THat means you have to drill the other. If they had put a second in, it would help you out a little, but we did give you the pilot hole in the nerf to work with.

There are two big reasons I did not do the "pro-peg" setup. The first is that anyone who has ever had an aluminum peg can tell you that they polish off very quickly, and that makes them slippery & dangerous. No way do I want my(or anyone elses) foot sliding off! The second is that I know some companies will simply weld a tube to a post, and then bolt it to your frame. Again, I've seen some of these fail at the weld, and that is another dangerous situation. We worked on those for Cannondale, and you wouldn't believe the force on the pegs. Sure the post is easy to make, (and cheap... maybe $5 tops) but I'm not willing to bet my leg (or yours) on that type of setup. Honda uses a very thick casting because they needed strength. In reality, there is no reason for replacing the peg. It's actually a pretty good part. However, if we ever do it it will be cast stainless peg that will work with the nerf. For now I passed on that however.

Hope that helps you out.

JA


This the kind of informative post I like to read. Makes you sit back and think a little, something I never did when buying stuff before. I think its cool what you are doing for this sport, I know so many of us have limited income and its hard for us to get out and race when you have no money for the entry fee after spending it all on your parts. If I could have any job right now, I would like to do what you are doing, doing a job while helping your sport you love. I am taking autocad right now so maybe someday I can do the same, maybe even be a competitor, or maybe work for ya :D All I can say is keep up the good work.

Originally posted by honda400exrider


what is the rath pro peg teeth?

Go here for the answer... http://www.exriders.com/reviews/pegextend.shtml


ON a side note,,John will any of your new products be at the big dealer show in Indy come Feb?? I'll be there and would like to see these products..:D

[Doibugu2]

Rico, what info do you have about that show. I might be interested in going. Especially since there isn't much going on in Feb. Got a link or ph #.

[Extremeracer167]

The only thing i hate about pro pegs. is the aluminum on the pegs wears out WAY to fast. And it moves the pegs down making the quad feel tall again. I like the feeling of a low sitting quad. Gives me more confidence cahrging into a corner

Originally posted by Doibugu2
Rico, what info do you have about that show. I might be interested in going. Especially since there isn't much going on in Feb. Got a link or ph #.

well not just anybody can go to it man. YOu have to be a dealer, a company, manufacturer, etc. I'm the new quadshop marketing director/janitor so Jeff got me a pass to go..:huh

[Dave400ex]

That is great news John. I am waiting to see these new LT arms and the 400ex Swingarm. If you sell them for the prices you are thinking, they will sell quickly.

Jnine I PMed you the other day!

[Doibugu2]

Originally posted by Rico


well not just anybody can go to it man. YOu have to be a dealer, a company, manufacturer, etc. I'm the new quadshop marketing director/janitor so Jeff got me a pass to go..:huh

Can I come and carry your lunch pail. (because I know it will be full of beer) :confused: ;)

[NJ300ex]

Originally posted by Jnine
I'll let you know what else we have coming. Maybe I shouldn't do this because the competition will find out, but oh well. We're going to make them anyway. SKIDPLATES - Both for the main frame, and the swingarm. We've already built & tested several, and they are coming... BUMPERS - Worked on the design this morning, and the tubing is to be made by the mill after the holidays. GRAB BARS.... I know how we're going to build this one, and to be honest it looks pretty much like any other, but how creative can you be with a grab bar? It probably will have 1 cool feature however.....

I have some input for you since I know you like feedback from fellow riders.

Skidplates: Make your skidplates tough. Tough and thick. For the belly skid make sure to make a hole for both the crankase drain and the oil tank. This would make life so much easier when changing oil. It is best to have the skidplate go past the edges of the frame. I don't think there is a need for it to curve up as it just gets stuff stuck in there. It needs to overlap however and cover the lower a arm mounts so they do not get damaged. Include good hardware as I am sure you were planning on doing anyway. Nylock nuts are great. The mounting system is very important. Make it beefy.

I live in the northeast and like everyone here knows there are some major rocks on the trails and the swinagrm skid takes the most of the abuse. I managed to bend my brand new Pro-Tect skidplate on my first ride with it. I was very dissapointed because it was suppose to be the strongest out there.

So I suggest you make the swingarm skid out of stainlesss steel and make it thick. Thicker than the pro-tect. Also make sure it sticks out all the way to protect the whole sprocket and rotor. The Pro-Tect doesn't do that and some damage has come from it.

Maybe you should make a lighter duty MX version and a heavy duty (like I described) trails and XC version.

Bumpers: The only problems I have encountered with mine is that they do not mount correctly and actually have to be bent to fit right or the holes for the bolts must be drilled out larger. Then once mounted it turns out crooked and looks bad. I understand this comes from the welding process, but I know there must be a way to stop it from happening.

Grab Bars: Please do not make the bolt on kind for the 400ex. They look bad, weight more, and are not as strong as one that has been put on with mounts and bolts. I suggest you include mounts that will be welded on to the subframe and bolts to attach it. This will make you cut off the existing grab bar and add the extra process of welding the mounts, but I think the good looks and added strength are worth it.

Another product you might want to think about making are seat latches. Many other companies do and they seem like an easy product to make.

Mike

[Jnine]

Hello again:

I'll hit a few of the comments about the new parts and maybe I can learn a few things from you guys.

PRICING: One guy said to not let the pricing get out of hand. I can promise you that will NEVER happen. If you look at our parts, we are consistantly under the other guys. We'll always be very competitive that way.

SKID PLATES: I was making them kind of beefy already, and I had considered the stainless, but that does run the price up. I also put in the oil drain holes as you requested, and I did roll the edge up a little bit. I would like to put a couple holes in for dirt to run out, but the guys here felt it also let just as much back in. I also countersunk the bolt heads. As for the front end, I basically stop the plate by the steering column. I wanted you to have access to that point, and I kind of think if your're dragging ahead of that point, you've got worse problems than I can fix. What do you think is a good thickness? I haven't finished the swingarm skidplates yet.

BUMPER: If your bumper holes don't line up it is DEFECTIVE! Thats just poor manufacturing (See overpricing section also). THere is NO EXCUSE for it. If I ever send out a part like that, please throw it back through my window because I would deserve it. (Before you take me up on that one, I would like to check it first - LOL) There are some cobblers out there that have never heard of tolerances. Kind of reminds me of the line from a classic movie: "Fat, drunk, and stupid is no way to go through life son!"

GRAB BARS: I didn't know anyone made a bolt on grab bar for a subframe that has one built in!. Why would they do that?. I would like to see it. Just an educated guess but I bet that overloads the matierial capabilites of the original subframe however. I'm sure they've done all the calculations though and will tell you it doesn't! (LOL again)

Talk to you later.

John Arens

[NJ300ex]

Wow, thanks for answering so quickly.

I believe the PRM and DG grab bars are now both bolt on. There have been pictures posted on this site. Try searching maybe or going to PRM's website, which is in the links section.

I think you should make the swingarm skidplates as thick as possible without sacrificing too much ground clearance. Belly Skids can be .125 to save wieght.

[dhines]

John,

A few quick thoughts on skids:

1. Do consider using stainless for the swing arm skid plate. I know it will bump the price up but the durability is so much greater I think it is worth it. There are a zillion aluminum skid plate manufaturers out there but only one making them out of steel - Protec. If you could put out a competitive skid at a lower price I'd be all over it.

2. For those of us with extended swingarms, many of the skid plates on the market hit the rear shock linkage - I assume due to the change in angle of the shock. Please test your swing arm skid with extended swingarms to make sure there are no clearance issues.

3. I would love to see more holes in the belly plate. While it may allow more dirt in while riding it should prevent tons of it from piling up on top of it. With the one I have now, cleaning all of the mud out from under the engine is a nightmare! Or maybe you could engineer a way to get the thing off and on easier for cleaning.

Merci,

Dennis

[Texan32]

I'm going to have to agree on the swing arm issue. I hace seen several aluminum skids go to he11 in a hand basket. A think SS swingarm skid will offer the toughest longest lasting protection. Yes, most here will understand htat SS costs more. But you know what, an extra 20-25 bucks is WELL WORTH IT!!!!! Perfect example...skid bends...starts rubbin rotor and chain/sproket...destroys rotor...destroys chain...causes sprocket to warp....

New rotor...$80+

New chain...$50+

New Rear sprocket...$30+

Loosing a race because of a skid plate.....ETERNAL disapointment

[Jnine]

Hello Guys:

I had considered doing the swingarm skidplates out of Stainless, but how thick do you want it to be? It could get heavy if we do that... The other thing that concerns me is what you said about the linkage hitting..... What are they hitting? Is it dragging too low and catching the ground on the extended swingarms, or is it hitting the skidplate? By the way, I assume most of you are using a swingarm that is about 1.25" longer... Don't the other skidplate makers take that into account, or do the swingarm makers set it up for the longer skidplate? WHy don't they make a plate to fit their swingarm? We were looking at this a couple days ago because of the new swingarm design. TO me it seems like you can't change the linkage stuff, so the skiplate must sit in pretty much the same place.

THis time I've got lots of questions for you!!!!!

JA

[dhines]

John,

I'm no engineer so I can't really make a good recommendation on the thickness of a stainless skid. My dad is running one of the Protec plates and is very happy with it. He ran it for much of the GNCC season in the Super Senior class and it still looks like new. It is a bit heavier but the durability is worth it.

As to the linkage problem, the very bottom rounded part of the linkage will grind against the plate with a +1.25" swingarm unless you put in spacers or cut the plate. I'm not sure that it is a problem with the skids from all manufacturers, but I've seen it on several including PRM. I can only assume that they simply did not consider testing their product with an extended swingarm when they designed them. Most of the people I ride/race cross country with are running the Houser +1.25" swingarm.

Best,

Dennis

[Jnine]

I'll make sure nothing is rubbing...

ETERNAL Disappointmet from not finishing a race???? Boy, you did want to win bad!

JA

[Texan32]

"eternal disappointment" ...well, thats a bit of an overstatement. But seriously, how peeved would you be if it happened?

[Dave400ex]

If at all possible make the SS skids the same thickness as the .190. Then it would have the same ground clearence, but be much stronger. I would make the Belly skid out of .190 also. Sure we will gain some weight, but for the extra protection over the .125, it's worth it to me. If they are priced right, I could see getting me some to test out and let you know how they work. My AC's are just not holding up like I hoped. Also some .190 a-arms guards wouldn't be a bad investment either. If you could make a-arm guards that would fit most LT +1 a-arms, a lot of GNCC riders would want those to protect those expensive a-arms.

[86atc250r]

How about sticking with aluminum - unsprung weight is bad and those Protect skids are heavy enough as it is & don't really seem to hold up any better than some of the better aluminum ones out there, in my experience anyhow...

On the aluminum thought, how about 7075 or 2024 (if 7075 is too brittle for this application) instead of the cheapo 6061 most of the other guys use. How about properly strengthening it in critical areas (maybe double'd up or heavily gussetted under the brake rotor?).

[Mxbubs]

Originally posted by 86atc250r
How about sticking with aluminum - unsprung weight is bad and those Protect skids are heavy enough as it is & don't really seem to hold up any better than some of the better aluminum ones out there, in my experience anyhow...

On the aluminum thought, how about 7075 or 2024 (if 7075 is too brittle for this application) instead of the cheapo 6061 most of the other guys use. How about properly strengthening it in critical areas (maybe double'd up or heavily gussetted under the brake rotor?).

Youve got to love em!:D

[Dave400ex]

Is 2024 and 7075 both thicker then the 6061, or is the 2024 thinner? I wouldn't go any thinner then the skids that are out now. The 7075 would be good if it's thicker. Whatever PRM is doing, they are doing it right because those skids they make are awesome.

[Jnine]

Hello guys:

All the aluminum youu mentioned was actually a "series" or class of aluminum alloy. It has 2024, 6061, 7075, etc has nithing to do with the thickniess. Those numbers all refer to the structural properties of the material, and not thickness or shape. You can get all of those in sheet, plates, or tube.

Most aftermarket aluminum parts are made from 6061 because it is on the higher end for strength, and it can be formed rather well, but can still be welded. The only tricky thing is that it may crack on the bends when it is formed. Look at some of the parts and where you have a shrp bend in the flat plates you might see little hairline cracks. That is hard to avoid. 6061 is pretty easy to get however, which also makes it cost effective.

The 2024 & 3000 series can be formed better without cracking, but the stuff is butter soft which is why they can form it easily with little cracking problems. It doesn't take welding too well either. Melts too easily.... The other big problem is that if it could be formed at the shop rather easily, that means a big rock can form it just as easily when you hit it.

7075 is on the high end for strentgh. It's great stuff to machine parts from, but thats about it. It's very hard, and bending it is a disaster, and welding it is impossible. Actually a few people will actually say they can do it just to prove a point, but it is not recommended by the aluminum manufacturers. The reason is it is so hard when it cools it cracks.

The story on aluminum is:
lower number= very soft, bends easily, not great for welding.
middle number (5000/6000 series) = ok bending, ok welding if you're careful.
high number (7000 series) Too hard for bending or welding.

Hope that helps out

[Extremeracer167]

John,
one thing that GREATLY concerns me with the longer swingarm is this. When i put the +1 1/4 on mine. They do not make the skidplate long. And it actually gives a rock, root, etc a better chance to get between the frame and the skid. If u know what i mean. For the guys that have longer swingarms, u should make the swingarm plates longer from the front mounting points to the frame, so that way there isnt as much of a lip to catch. I hate looking at the BIG gap between the frame and the swingarm plate. I know there has to be a little gap to accept the pivoting of the swingarm, but there is a MAJOR gap with the longer swigarm. Its hard to explain, but ill try and take a pic if u dnt know what i mean. Thanks.

PS.....def. make them stainless steel. And to offer stainless for around $100 would be the selling ticket. I know pro-tect wants 145 for a 400EX skid!

[Jnine]

Ok.. Send me a pic and I'll check it out.

JA

[Extremeracer167]

Ok ill get one posted by monday. I really dont think u should worry about weight for us XC guys. An extra pound fo ra skidplate doesnt bother me at all. The extra weight here and there is just a sacrifice for the extra durability we are lookng for. Ide rather have a skid that weighs 5 lbs, then not being able to finish a race because the 3 lb skid got knocked off and destroyed my rotor and sprocket!

[NJ300ex]

Gussets in the right places are more important than actual thickness. If you look at AC and DG skids you can see that they are just flat pieces welded together with no gussets and would probabley last about 30 minutes in the woods. Then if you look at a PRM you can see the massive amounts of gussets especially on the main middle plate and that it will last alot longer than a AC or DG.

I realized before that I forgot to mention where my protect skid bent. It actually bent every place on the skid, there is no part of it not bent, but the section that bent the most was the main middle plate down by the back mounting bolts. Now if the skid had been double thickness just in this area, I doubt it would have bent as much as it did. But it wasn't and it messed up my chain and rotor.

So, make sure to gusset your skids sufficiently especially at the high stress areas like where the mounting bolts are.

[Extremeracer167]

my god, do u even try to miss rocks!? Or do u try to hit them. To mangle up a pro-tect as bad as u make it sound, u must not try to miss them. Ive seen a few in bad shape, but thats after a years worth of racing.

[NJ300ex]

I try to miss them as much as possible but I am told I ride too aggresivley in the rocky sections.

Try going to Paragon offroad park in PA. It is a off road truck riding area and I went soon after they opened it up to ATV's and Dirtbikes. It is all rock. From the pictures I have seen it is like the rockiest part of the Wisp times 2 and almost the whole place is like that.

I am going to try and get pictures up of it sometime.

[QuadTrix6]

Originally posted by NJ300ex
I try to miss them as much as possible but I am told I ride too aggresivley in the rocky sections.

Try going to Paragon offroad park in PA. It is a off road truck riding area and I went soon after they opened it up to ATV's and Dirtbikes. It is all rock. From the pictures I have seen it is like the rockiest part of the Wisp times 2 and almost the whole place is like that.

I am going to try and get pictures up of it sometime.

yea pics would be great, i gotta check it out :devil

[Mxbubs]

Just thought Id throw this at you John, I am currently running a +1 over swingarm and it is plenty. I have ran a +1.25 and felt like it was too much. I personally like the +1, I feel like it handles better in the turns, and jumps much better. The +1.25 had the tendency to push my front end down bad on steep faced jumps, I had to be on the throttle hard just to keep the front end up.

Can anyone relate?

[RideRed04]

Just a thought on the subframe....What if you moved the battery to the inside of the subframe instead of the outside, you know, centralize mass. If you put it in behind the airbox, you could have a welded in battery tray that would double as a main gusset. I really dont see the point in a-arm skids, like John said, If you are rubbing there, he cant help you much. I think the belly pan doesnt need to be as beefy, just make the edged rolled for strength (ie stock rims). I would seriously look into one of your skids, mine is taking a beating. I like the weight of aluminum, but the strenght of SS...I say work on gusseting an aluminum one. Make it kick up on the other side of the chain (outside) so there is protection against rocks and such when sliding around a corner. Good luck with everything!

[Jnine]

Hello guys..

WOW... Thanks for the great info on the skid plates and swingarms. Actually for the person who mentioned the length of the swingarms and thought perhaps 1.25" was too much, technically the one we are making is +30mm. I know that's kind of strange, but since the quad is designed in metric, I couldn't make myself cross units. That makes it about 1.2" instead of 1.25" I know... Big deal!!! Thats what Andy said too, and it just made him shake his head and kind of laugh.. Just my own thing I guess.. Anyway, even adjusting the chain from the shortest position to the longest possible will change your swingarm length by more than the difference between 1" & 1.25" Kind of makes the 1/4" thing insignificant. (and for that matter a couple mm)

You guys had great info on the skidplates.. I'lll try to hit that hard next week... Sounds like you are more concerned with strength and durability, and would like me to concentrate on the swingarm skid plate.. I'll do that.

Tomorrow (I know it's Sunday, but sometimes that is a good day to just check over stuff and relax & think) Andy and I are going over the new frame & bumper design.

Talk to you later.

JA

[tants]

jnine.... nacs's arens aarms are all sold out, could i order them directly from you?

[kicken250x]

I think it is great that you are getting on here and sccualy listening to what the average comsumer has to say about what they want and how they think it would be strongest. From what I have read in this thread in the past 30 min I would feel compleatly confident purchasing any of your products. It sounds like you really know your stuff! Personaly I think the SS S-arm skid is a GREAT idea. If you do then Ill be in line ASAP. I really like the idea of the guesseting on the S-arm skid. Four or five guessets is all that would be need per side. I will try to make a picture of my idea tomorrow in paint Ill post it if I can get it to come out right. Thats all I can think of for the time being. If I think of anything else then I will deffinatly let you know. You sound like you like to hear your customers ideas. Later dude...

[Dave400ex]

I am more worried about the strength and durability then the weight also. I would be more then happy to add a few pounds, if there was a SS skid that would have to go through a war to bend. I know my AC's won't last all next season, so when will these Skids be done?

[kicken250x]

Does Arens have a web site? If so what is it, I'd like to check it out. Later...

[Jnine]

Hello guys:

SInce the design of the swingarm skidplate hasn't even been started, it surely won't be done anytime soon. I will check out the stainless steel option though. I kind of like that idea. The forming and welding is easy, but the only problem I can see is the cost. Stainless is pretty expensive, and a swingarm will have to be rather thick, which means it will also weigh a little more than the aluminum plates. How much does a stainless swingarm plate cost? I don't mean the special "deal" you get from some place either. What is the retail cost of one?

Talk to you later.

[Dave400ex]

The Pro-Tect stainless skid is $145. They also offer one for the +1.25 swingarm for $155. Check outPro-Tect (http://www.protectfabrications.com/honda.htm) Most of the top guys you see running Pro-Tect or PRM. Make a skid that is like the Pro-Tect, but cheaper and you will sell many.

[Kadafiy]

Do you have any pics of the nerfbvars yet? I would like to see some.

[phatswinn]

yea id love to see some pics too, sounds like ur gunna be making a very good swingarm skid, count me in on one, and if u make a axle carrier make it tapered, ill be buying one of them soon also, nerf bars are also on my list

[bongwater200]

Originally posted by beerock



HINT HINT! ;)
the way you price things I bet youll end up outselling ac pro pegs.

cha ching!


Anyone who could manufacture a set of nerf bars that FIT the same way twice in a row could outsell AC Pro Pegs! I know of a few trained chimps with a ruler who could have better quality contol if only they could find a place in the jungle to plug in their welder!

Maybe the guys at AC don't have an opposable thumb?

Come on, fellas...... ever heard of a FIXTURE!?

PB

[Mxbubs]

About adjusting the carrier to tighten or loosent he chain, I never thought of that, how it real shorten or lengthen your bikes overall length by a 1/4".

You have done this stuff before havent you John?:D

[Dave400ex]

John have you ever thought about making Wheel Hubs, Axles, Anti-Fade and there may be more. Heck if you made those guys could have like a full rolling Arens setup.

[Jay300ex]

John,

A note on putting holes in the belly plate, that sounds like a good idea. Even if the holes are just 1/4 inch holes, you could leave a spot to stick a hose or something to where it will wash all the dirt and crap out those holes. If it would be that easy to clean out why not let a little bit of dirt get in if riding through water might get it all out eh? ;)

Jay

[Dave400ex]

I just thought of another thing after reading this. My AC skid rattles and makes a lot of noise unless I put some pipe foam around it. Try to make a mounting system that works good enough so it can't rattle. It drives me nuts when it rattles, and sounds like my 400 is going to fall apart. lol

[desertratt45]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyone who could manufacture a set of nerf bars that FIT the same way twice in a row could outsell AC Pro Pegs! I know of a few trained chimps with a ruler who could have better quality contol if only they could find a place in the jungle to plug in their welder!


i know in the past we didnt us a check fixture after the nerfs where built. we only relied on the welding fixture. we now have a check fixture and have been useing it for a while now. so there is no question about them being the same twice. and yes i do have 2 thumbs. but if you know a couple of trained chimps that can read a ruler i'll be glad to hire them to replace the couple of ideots that work for me

[Pappy]

Originally posted by desertratt45

but if you know a couple of trained chimps that can read a ruler i'll be glad to hire them to replace the couple of ideots that work for me.

lmgdao.......i thought i had cornered the market on trained chimps:eek: :D

[Ralph]

my dads company has some chimps,,, they do all they valley parking, altough several, wait all cars have not been found yet...

[bongwater200]

Originally posted by desertratt45
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


i know in the past we didnt us a check fixture after the nerfs where built. we only relied on the welding fixture. we now have a check fixture and have been useing it for a while now. so there is no question about them being the same twice. and yes i do have 2 thumbs. but if you know a couple of trained chimps that can read a ruler i'll be glad to hire them to replace the couple of ideots that work for me



LMAO.....

Thanks for the answer. I know how it can be to have to hire people to work for you. Most mfrs went through the same thing. I'm sure they all feel your pain. For $80k you can get something to weld the same every time, though! Chump change!

PB

[Doibugu2]

What ever happened to theses? Did they sell out already, what happened with the Pics?

[Jnine]

I have them... If I can figure out a way to post a photo on here I can make your day. How are you guys getting the photo files in here?

JA

[Foxrage]

You can send them to me at foxrage@yahoo.com and ill post em for you or. When your posting scroll down a little and there is and attach filke spot browse to find the pic then select it and submit the post.

[Dave400ex]

How are the Skid Plates coming along?

[user101]

I THOUGHT WE WERE TALKING ABOUT NERFS :huh ....LMAO

[beerock]

Originally posted by Jnine
I have them... If I can figure out a way to post a photo on here I can make your day. How are you guys getting the photo files in here?

JA

John, the best way to find a photo on your computer is to do this.

drag and drop the picture you want to upload onto the desktop

then, when you post a reply click on the browse tab and hit the show desktop tab in the file window, highlight the picture and hit open and then hit reply once you are done..

I hope this helps..

[Doibugu2]

Yea, if you can't figure out how to post the file, send it to one of us. We will take care of it for you.

Also, let us know how to get a hold of you to purchase them.

[Sparks425Ex]

Yeah. I thought we were gonna see some pics of some nerfs and the all the sudden i get in here and we are talking about Skid Plates. and 70343 and 45774 not to mention 438234290

So whats going on?

Who ever lives close to John Please go over to his shopor house and help him post a pic. I am ding to see them.

[Dave400ex]

Well he is making some Skids too. Heck he is working on a lot of stuff....

[Jnine]

OK. I'll try to drop a few photos in here.

JA

[Guy400]

Here you go guys. John emailed me these to post for you.

[Guy400]

.

[dhines]

Tight! Very tight!

[EvilJester400EX]

i agree! will they only be offered with the red lettering? or will there be other colors like black, blue, etc?

[Jnine]

Hello Guys:

I'm planning on making a one-piece decal for that area. I need one that sticks really well, and it will also feature the "Star" logo along with my name. Actually when I started with that logo it was not supposed to be a star. I had always planned on printing the inside legs of the triangle to show an "A" for my last name. Anyway, all the nerfs will come polished like that also, and they also will include all the mounting hardware. They just look better polished.

What do you think?

[Doibugu2]

Those really look sweet! What type of dollar figure are you going to be asking, and do you have them in stock.

I have AC's on order, but I can't get a hold of the guy to find out where they are at, I have been waiting for a long time. I'll switch to yours if I can cancel the others.

[Bart]

John,

Are these nerfs for the 400ex or the 250R?

[Dave400ex]

Those are very nice. I like the polished look better....

[Jnine]

Hello Guys:

Glad you liked the nerfs. I do have several hundred sets right now, but the nets aren't finished until next week. I think I stated earlier that I wanted to sell them for no more than $169, and that still works for me. I'm not going to try & sneak the price up on the readers of EXriders, or anywhere else.

[Jnine]

Forgot to tell you what they fit... Sorry about that!

I have them made for the 400EX, 250R & Raptor

Talk to you later.

[mrusk]

You need to make some pro pegs!!

matt