need some help with suspension

[yfz__rider3]

ok i have a question about the ltr front end. if i were to purchase long travel shocks would i have to purchase a-arms or could i just bolt them straight onto the factory a-arms. and could someone please explain to me what long travel really means. thanks

[QUADSQUAD7]

Basically long travel is just what it says. Going long travel your bike will be able to have more flexibility and room to move over the rough stuff. If your wanting to race, long travel is the way to go. If your just riding and having fun get you a set of good aftermarket shocks with your stock arms. Most all of the shock companies today test and design their shocks to work together. The fronts are made to work with the rear. Don't make the mistake of getting a front end without doing something with the rear. To answer your question: If you get any shock that is longer than the stock shock or is a long travel shock you will need new arms. The valving will not be right. If your wanting a great cheap setup have the stockers revalved and resprung for your weight and riding style.

[asjr39]

I am thinking about getting the Walsh long travel and the Fox shocks. You said "Don't make the mistake of getting a front end without doing something with the rear." What would you recommend for the rear? I have a rebuilt rear with bigger spring and re-valved and it works great, what else would you do?

[quad59]

Long travel only means that there is more travle than stock, whether it be a quarter inch or one inch. Its east to get caught up in all the numbers, wheel travel vs shock travel, leverage ratios it gets pretty rediculous. Unless you are National A rider and above I would not see any advantages to buying long travel front end unless you want the bling factor. Especially when some companys long travel vs standard for the ltr is only half an inch and cost 1000 bucks. I would get a set of adjustable uppers so you can change caster and camber. Get PEP or fox shocks for the front and stick with your revalve in the rear. It will be night and day difference and more than enough and you'll save cash you can put towards a stabiliser or other mods.

[asjr39]

So your saying to keep the stock a-arms and just buy fox or pep shocks that would fit stock a-arms? i dont race pro or anything but i like to be competative. if your telling me its only a difference of only an inch or so then its not worth $1000.

[quad59]

With long travel your only getting like an inch every company varies. You'r quad will handle better with an adjustable upper a-arm kit though. You can adjust camber to get more steering quickness less push in tight corners. But yea just get some FOX or PEP's and tear it up.

[asjr39]

what are adjustable cambers and who sells them?so with stock a-arms and fox shocks wouldn't be any good then?

[LTandRaptorider]

Adjustable cambers are a-arms with adjustable upper ball joints. You adjust the ball joint in or out to affect ride and steering. Looking from the front of your quad, your wheels look like this / \ That is what you adjust in or out. I believe the stock setting is 4 degrees negative camber. Wheels straight up is 0 degrees. Moving the top in or out gives you negative or positive camber.

[quad59]

It will only be the uppers you are changing the lowers will be your stock arms so any shock for stock arms will work. Caster and camber adjustable uppers are available through fourplay, walsh and maybe houser.