PDA

View Full Version : 400ex stock a-arm trouble



InsaneTRX
08-20-2008, 09:05 PM
I have a 2007 trx 400ex ... I recently ordered (rolldesign a-arms)
red uppers and black lowers... I also orderd (elka schocks) with rezzies... I was having trouble getting the ball joints out of the brake disc ... I tryed putting wd-40 to lube it up. and i also tryed hitting the a-arm with a hammer to get it off

any suggestions...

underpowered
08-20-2008, 10:15 PM
BFH.

i have never had any touble with mine. a few whacks with a hammer and they are loose.

you could buy a ball joint fork from your local auto parts store.

InsaneTRX
08-20-2008, 10:26 PM
alright thanks for the advice ... i was looking at other fourms and i saw that pickle forks or bars work to pry it up or a socket small enough to get in between the two bolts

Honda#4
08-21-2008, 08:24 AM
What I did was take the whole suspension assembly off then give it a few cracks with the hammer. It helps alot if theres no pressure on the arms. You can use a punch right on the balljoint part but put the nut on if you do that and end up selling them so that the threads dont get chewed up.

Post up some pics when your done

Colby@C&DRacing
08-21-2008, 08:40 AM
We sell a ball joint seperating tool that will not damage your grease boots for $22.50

08-21-2008, 01:46 PM
From what I gather its the ball joints into the knuckles that is causing some frustration. I had the same problem and JOEX helped me out along with a few others. Take a socket that fit inbetween the 2 ball joints upper and lower. Loosen the nuts but not all the way and have a socket that fits in between when both are loosened a bit and then keep loosening each upper and lower. The force from them pushing against the socket litterally makes them pop out of the holes.

NacsMXer
08-21-2008, 02:25 PM
Originally posted by FoxHondaRider
From what I gather its the ball joints into the knuckles that is causing some frustration. I had the same problem and JOEX helped me out along with a few others. Take a socket that fit inbetween the 2 ball joints upper and lower. Loosen the nuts but not all the way and have a socket that fits in between when both are loosened a bit and then keep loosening each upper and lower. The force from them pushing against the socket litterally makes them pop out of the holes.

This is the best/easiest way to do it by far, it works every time. No damage to the spindles or ball joint threads.

Here is a pic of what I made when I already had one ball joint popped out. I used 2 sockets and a couple washers to acheive the extra height needed to pop out the remaining ball joint. When you first start out, just use one socket between the castle nuts and back them off into eachother like FoxHondaRider is explaining. Once one pops out, re-create what you see in this pic to get the other one out.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/3858/dsc00144rv6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

mcwilly
08-22-2008, 10:03 AM
Insane, check you PM's.

08-22-2008, 10:37 AM
I did mine the way nacs picture shows, except I bought the kit from motion pro. Comes with a threaded socket like thing. Made to fit over the opposite side. And it is hardened. Plus, all the force comes from it's threads and body pushing, with nacs picture he is using pressure from the threads on the spindle knuckle joint itself. Thats bad. Worked nifty. I gotta say, getting the new ones in sucked. My aftermarket ones came with silicone lock nuts instead of those crown nuts and cotter key setup. Once I got to the silicone I tried to turn the nut and the entire threaded post starts spinning. Rubber boot is covering it so you can't hold on to it. Madenning.

Ruby Soho
08-25-2008, 09:38 AM
i had the entire arm assembly off, and moved the upper arm out of the way and beat on the bottom with a rubber mallet, popped out after a few hits

quad2xtreme
09-03-2008, 06:44 PM
Originally posted by Prodigal
I did mine the way nacs picture shows, except I bought the kit from motion pro. Comes with a threaded socket like thing. Made to fit over the opposite side. And it is hardened. Plus, all the force comes from it's threads and body pushing, with nacs picture he is using pressure from the threads on the spindle knuckle joint itself. Thats bad. Worked nifty. I gotta say, getting the new ones in sucked. My aftermarket ones came with silicone lock nuts instead of those crown nuts and cotter key setup. Once I got to the silicone I tried to turn the nut and the entire threaded post starts spinning. Rubber boot is covering it so you can't hold on to it. Madenning.

Use an 8" C clamp to put pressure on top and bottom a-arms at the same time. It will lock them in place every time so you can tighten the nut.