lock tite or not?

[LONG-ROD]

The bolt that holds the gear that goes between the clutch and the balancer backed out of the crank and put a hole in my case, I had just removed this bolt, did I need to lock tie it or did I just forget to tighten it, also should I lock tite the fly wheel bolt.

[86 Quad R]

what are you using to tighten those bolts/nuts?

[LONG-ROD]

I put a penny in between the the center gear and the counter balancer and use a 1/2 drive socket and tighten it down until the penny bends. That is why I wounder if I just forgot to tighten it. After the build it ran for 10 gallons no problem, then I just took it off and put it back on and it made it about 1/4 gallon and I smelled the oil burning out my silencer, and noticed the bolt makeing it's way threw the case:eek: So is the crank hollow, is this how motor oil made it's way to the combustion chamber, thanks for the advise.

[86 Quad R]

the crank gear when tightened creates the seal against the seal race. chances are, when the crank bolt backed out it allowed seapage and started sucking in tranny oil.

fyi: i use the penny trick as you mentioned but, i wedge it between the primary drive gear and the basket gear and use an electric impact.

[LONG-ROD]

Ok, well it sounds like I just forgot to tighten it, so you don't use locktite and where do you creat the wedge for the ckutch bolt?

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by LONG-ROD
Ok, well it sounds like I just forgot to tighten it, so you don't use locktite and where do you creat the wedge for the ckutch bolt?

no loctite, just the impact and i'm not saying that you sholdnt either but, using the impact makes for a better torqued bolt than dead pull of a wrench.

to tighten the clutch nut i use a 5/16" clear fuel line that is weaved between the basket fins and holds the inner hub from rotating. kinda like a strap type oil filter wrench. :cool:

[LONG-ROD]

I will use the impact, and I take it the clutch does not need to be torqed as much as the other.

[matt250r21]

You can make a cheap and good tool to hold your clutch baskets with two old fiber and steel clutch plates. Just line them up in the baskets, drill a few holes (careful not to drill into your baskets) and bolt them together. Now you can tighten your inner hub down.

As for thread locker, I use the red stuff on the primary bolt and torque it to factory specs.

[k265r]

i made the mistake of not lining up the marks on the gears once and the bolt backed out.

[All250R]

Guys, come on man. Just torque the bolt with a torque wrench (29-36 ft/lbs). Same with the clutch hub bolt too (40-47 ft/lbs). It's a pain the *** to loosen those when someone tightened the daylights out of them. Impact guns can weaken the threads, but more than that, it's not necessary with the right common tool. I use blue loctite on the crank bolt but I don't worry if I skip it.

Yea too align the dots on the gears. I definitely loctite the smaller 6-9 ft/lb bolts, particularly the balancer holder bolts. The factory used loctite on those two too.

[atvmxr]

LOL, i was thinking the same thing ALL250R


:devil: