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Fear250r
08-11-2008, 04:33 PM
Alright, new unknown about the bike. Obviously got it running and I've been breaking it in, so I haven't been hammering on it. Well, I was taking it around the neighborhood and it seems it would happen in about 4th gear, when I start to hit the gas, she would up and die. It would start right back up, but it would end up doing it again.

My buddy and I looked around and thought maybe the fuel line was getting kinked cuz of the filter. Took that off and tried hittin' the gas a little harder and it seemed to be better.

So, we go for a spin and stop after about 10 minutes, bike seems fine. Take off again, after maybe another 10 minutes, it starts with the BS again. Now, it seems to do it at random times. I'm getting the feeling it's electrical, but not quite sure. It seems as though once it's decided it's gonna die, there's no stopping it. I think I saved it from dying once or twice. Also, after it dies, it sounds like it just doesn't want to start. Seems like she wants to hang around for a few minutes, then will start up again. So, that's that, any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Also, how's everyone's experience with stock radiators and 330's. I've never had cooling problems but she seems to be gettin' real hot, boiling in the overflow. It wasn't even hot yesterday. Thanks

Aceman
08-11-2008, 07:08 PM
Make sure your fuel cap is venting. Then I'd probably go through the carb and make sure all the passages are blown out and the float height is set. If that doesn't cure it, I'd start on the electrical system probably. I have a meter so ohming the components really quick to rule them out isn't too much trouble.

FYI, sometimes when coils are on the way out, they'll quit firing the plug when they get hot. While you were removing the fuel filter it may of let the coil cool down enough that it was able to run for a while when you started it again.

I'd run an aftermarket rad on a 330 for sure, my 310 with a stock rad ran about 180 when I was moving quick but when I slowed down on trails 200 wasn't uncommon. Now with my Afco rad, 150 is about normal. 180 when I'm duning it pretty hard.
I like to think my engine will last a little longer keeping it a bit cooler, so an aftermarket rad is worth it IMO.

custom R
08-12-2008, 09:10 PM
sounds like your coil is going bad when its hot it will open up and when it cools it work again

Fear250r
08-13-2008, 06:30 PM
Well, checked things out and it appears as if it's the coil. The readings on the coil vary, it seems to be all over the place. When I try the secondary, I get nothing. When I take the cap off, still nothings. So, I think that's the problem.

Anyway, how much does a new one run? Is it worth upgrading at this point? Obviously looking for the best spark possible with this big bore. Thanks

Dave83
08-13-2008, 07:20 PM
When you ohm the secondary side are you setting your meter to the higher ohm range(usually 20k)?If not then it will not read anything.If you have a stock cdi and stator,Id go with the Janssen coil.About 95.00,but they stand behind them like noone else.They have warratied 2 of them for me.first one wasnt bad(this is where I learned about the "k" range on the ohm meter) and second broke a wire off.Regardless,they sent new ones both times.

custom R
08-13-2008, 11:29 PM
I would get a janssen coil I run one on my 310 with stock cdi and it works great and I ran it for 3 years now well worth the 95.00