R won't start

[Fear250r]

Ok guys, here's the deal. Motor is freshly rebuilt and can't seem to get her to start. Definitely getting spark and fuel. At first it was tough to tell if there was spark, but it's there. Also, it seems odd that whenever I take the plug out to make sure I have spark, the next time I go to kick it, it fires for about 2 seconds, but never gets running. It's done this 3-4 times. I've read through a bunch of old stuff, but haven't really found anything like this. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[86 Quad R]

there could be a number of things causing it not to start. check to make sure that the fly wheel key isnt sheared, a different plug, the CDI, plug wire, reeds, and of course the pilot circuit on the carb. i have seen times where a critter decided to make a nest in the exhaust while things were torn down and being rebuilt. good luck with it:cool:

[Fear250r]

The flywheel key is fine. I've tried a couple different plugs, both brand new. 2 cdi's, one is stock, went bad, but still get spark from it and the other one is a stock unit, but only about 4 years old with little ride time on it. Also, there's nothing in the exhaust. I checked the reeds while everything was apart. You can see a little bit of light, but nothing too serious. I was planning on getting a new cage, but figured I'd wait for now since the bike was running just fine with the old one. I was using the stock plug and I have an iridium plug also that I haven't tried, would that make any difference? Also, the motor is a big bore 330, not sure if that makes a difference or not, maybe the plug should be gaped differently than a stock plug?

[kiesta00]

Checked the float in the carb? make sure you're getting plenty of fuel to the motor. Does the ignition fire all the time?

[exrider12]

change your spark plug.

[8686]

Are you definitely getting gas? Is the plug wet with gas when you take it out? Maybe it has a weak spark. My stator took a crap due to water in the stator cover and that's how mine acted. Would fire for a few seconds with a fresh plug then it would die and there was no getting it started, even after I dried the stator. Changed the cdi, coil, and complete wire harness before I swapped the stator and sure enough, that's what it was. (I had all the stuff already so it was easy to check). Also, check that the cap is securely fitted to the wire on the coil. Keep us posted.

[peeping TOM]

was it running fine before?? .. u have to get the kickstart to the highest point so your true TDC on the 330 so the inertia turns u crank more,hence more spark. the 330's are best of with a cr ignition set up.

[Fear250r]

Yes, the bike was running just fine before I tore it all down to rebuild it. Could it have something to do with the stock ignition? I'm seeing so much about people putting on different coils, or the CR set up. I have been kicking the snot out of it, my buddy and brother couldn't even kick the thing over, actually, my buddy couldn't even get it to spark.

Tom - How exactly do I know when I'm close to TDC to kick it then? Thanks

[86 Quad R]

if you've ever paid attention as to how an ole Harley is started, how ya have to slowly roll the engine over until you feel the piston approaching TDC. then, you transfer all energy to the leg doing the kicking, from the hip to the leg. using the strength from the leg in conjunction the the transfer of body of body weight one can spin the hell out of it.

[havinnoj]

b8-9es or even a br8-9es gapped 18-20. if you weren't sure spark was there in the beginning, get this figured out first. Fuel + fire = combustion.

How do the floats look?

A stock CDI 4 is likely to have spent 15 years in a package and 4 on the bike...don't rule it out.

[Fear250r]

Ok, there is plenty of spark. I've tried 3 different plugs. Tried the BR9ES one before, but today I went with the B8/9ES gapped around 18-20, still nothing. Took the carb apart, everything seems hunky dory. Took off the exhaust and there was some gas in it, it wasn't full or anything, but maybe an ounce or two, other than that, there is nothing blocking the exhaust. It did fire a hair *** longer today than yesterday, but still, nothing to write home about. Oh and I've been using the "proper" kick method now.

Also, what does everybody base nuts look like compared to the stud. My father was looking at it and getting worried there wasn't enough stud threaded on there. I'll take a pic after and hopefully you guys can tell me if I've got enough, or if I should pull the F'n thing apart. :mad:

[Fear250r]

Here are a couple pics. Hope they're good enough. If not, let me know, I'll snap some more. Thanks

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/Fear250r/IMG_1257.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/Fear250r/IMG_1258.jpg

[k265r]

Run longer studs when using a spacer plate. I get them from esr when ordering a cylinder im sure others supply them also

[bushwesl]

I'm currently running a spacer plate motor with the stock length studs and have been for quite some time, probably pushing 2 years, and haven't had any issues with it. I know it's not preferred, but mine haven't budged. I'd say run it like that for now, especially since you've got it all together, but just make sure you watch them to see if they're by chance coming loose.

[mxduner]

Also, it seems odd that whenever I take the plug out to make sure I have spark, the next time I go to kick it, it fires for about 2 seconds,
that there tells me you have too much gas.When you take the plug out you let oxygen in the combustion chamber, which is required to make fire.Like stated before, check your float height and needle and seat, and do not rule out ignition.

[Aceman]

I'm not running a spacer plate motor, but there's no way I'd run mine like that with only 3 threads engaged. Then you add in high compression......

Cylinder studs + labor to install=$
Potential damage to motor + labor to fix=$$$$

Seems like an easy choice to me...

[Fear250r]

Anybody know what size studs to get? Also, aren't there studs from a CR you could use? I'd like to get them ordered today, but don't want to go to ESR, or should I just pull it apart and head down to the hardware store?? Let me know, Thanks....

[Fear250r]

Alright, I've already pulled the motor and fixed the studs. Unfortunately, the last one I was working on gave me trouble. The two nuts I was using pretty much stuck to each other and won't come loose. I've already ruined the nuts.

Aceman- I had to take your advice. I've got 4 months into the build and don't won't some B.S. happening now. Anyway, we can let this thread die for now, hopefully I'll have it back in the bike by the weekend and I'll try starting it again. Thanks everybody.

[BigBore24]

maybe you could try pulling the quad behind something and pop starting it. also take the air filter completely out and try that. after i rebuilt my blaster i couldnt get it to run with the stock air filter.

[Aceman]

Originally posted by BigBore24
maybe you could try pulling the quad behind something and pop starting it. also take the air filter completely out and try that. after i rebuilt my blaster i couldnt get it to run with the stock air filter.

Not a good idea with a 2 stroke.

If for some reason his cylinder isn't getting the fuel that's a dry piston going up and down the hole.

[Fear250r]

No, I never had intention of pop starting it. I had already taken the air filter out, just in case that was a problem.

Also found out the crankcase was flooded. I had spoken with Neil directly and he said that could be a problem. Why exactly or what happens that the crankcase floods? And how could gas down there prevent it from starting?

One last thing, I know there is the ground on the upper left of the radiator, but is the motor supposed to be grounded to the frame also? The frame has been painted and I'm wondering if one of the bolts, I figure either the back or bottom engine bolt should be acting as a ground? Thanks guys.

[86 Quad R]

the crank case being flooded could be contributed to the float needle not shutting the fuel off properly after the bowl fills. this sometimes alows fuel to trickle into the engine. i've acually seen them fill the engine if let set long enough.

the engine DOES need to be grounded as the rest of the system. :cool:

[Fear250r]

She's alive!!! Not really sure what happened, but I finally got her to start. It was actually Thursday night, but I've been too busy to post. I'm not really sure what happened, but this is what I did.

First, I changed the plug to a B9es. The crankcase had a bunch of gas in it, but not really sure if it was flooded or not. Either way, the floats might have gotten stuck the first time I put it together but it seems to be fine now. I also made sure the motor was grounded to the frame. Once all was said and done, she started after 3 or 4 kicks. Just starting to break her now, can't wait to be the hell outta this thing.

Anyway, thanks everybody for your input. It seems like this is one of the few places to get any real info on our R's now. I'll post up some pics after.