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View Full Version : Help, weak spark no start.



Iliketogofast
06-11-2008, 10:19 AM
I got my new harness and coil in the mail today and hooked everything up. I am getting a weak spark when I test and it will not start.

Actually, it will start, but only for a split second. What happens is, I kick it over really hard and then it fires one time and the kicker knocks back up into my foot real hard. It's almost as if it runs backwards for a second and snaps the kicker back then dies.

It's really weird. I have to kick real hard to even get it to spark. All of the components, when I do a resistance check, are OK.

Please help! I just want to ride ffs!!

Iliketogofast
06-11-2008, 10:24 AM
Also, I have been testing with two different CDI's with the same exact results. So it's pretty unlikely that a CDI is the case.

screaminta
06-11-2008, 04:26 PM
Is your woodruff key ok?

Iliketogofast
06-11-2008, 04:36 PM
wat


I don't know what that is. I was in the stator cover and everything looked good. I didn't have the flywheel off or anything.

screaminta
06-11-2008, 04:59 PM
pull your flywheel off and you will see a little half circle shaped groove in the crank. There should also be a little half circle shaped key (woodruff key) that fits in that groove and allows the groove in the flywheel to locate on. It is not uncommn for this key to shear off and cause all kinds of ignition trouble. When you pull the flywheel off the key should be sitting on the crank still. You will need a puller for this as the flwheel and crank have matching tapers on them and cause them to "lock" together. I know I'm not the best at explaining things but if you have any questions just ask. I just went through this with a different bike of mine.

Aceman
06-11-2008, 05:20 PM
Just an idea, when you pull the flywheel off to check the key I'd take a look at the flywheel and stator surfaces. You could try shining them up with emery cloth and then spraying the stator with WD40. My R just started breaking up from half-full throttle position and I'm about to do the same thing. I think water gets in through the wiring hole in the stator cover and causes problems. It's my theory anyway...:ermm:

Iliketogofast
06-11-2008, 06:02 PM
Hey guys, thanks for your help.

I will be pulling the flywheel and checking the key and cleaning up the stator tomorrow.

screaminta
06-11-2008, 07:44 PM
Yes, the surfaces should be very smooth and shiny, if not this could cause them to not "lock" together. If they are not, yes shine them up. The reason that I think it may be your woodruff key is that that is the way your ignition timing is set. You describe that it will fire then "backfire" (aka kick back), to me this may be a timing issue. Let us know!!!

Also, Aceman, you may want to check your stator side crank seal if your breaking up from half throttle up, mine was doing to same thing and it was the seal. replaced it and she tore it up again!!!(that is until the crank bearing went!!!)

GOTFEAR
06-11-2008, 10:40 PM
make sure you don't have a lot of crank shaft play up and down

Iliketogofast
06-11-2008, 10:53 PM
There isn't any crank play I had the bottom and top end completely rebuilt a couple of months ago, have only just now got it together and it has about 30 minutes on it.

There is still compression. I was worried that it was catching a ring on a port but it would have broken already if so.

The woodruff key makes the most sense to me. It seems as if it's firing a split second before TDC causing it to run backwards for a single stroke and also snapping the kicker back in the process. At least that's what makes sense to me... I don't know much about this type of thing. The only thing I can really do is rebuild a top end and play with the carb when it comes to a motor.

trx310R#24
06-11-2008, 11:06 PM
i bet anything its the fly pin or somthing in there

trx310R#24
06-11-2008, 11:11 PM
iv seen fly wheel keys that look 110% new but they are bad it only takes a lil bit to mess up the timing

Iliketogofast
06-12-2008, 11:26 AM
This fly pin you talk about - is this the flywheel or woodruff key? Or is it a different part?

I too can almost guarantee it's going to be the timing. It all made sense to me once somebody mentioned it.

Iliketogofast
06-12-2008, 04:27 PM
I can't find this part on any parts diagram. I won't know what I'm looking at when I get in there, does anybody have a picture or a diagram with the piece circled? What is the proper name if I need to buy it?

Aceman
06-12-2008, 04:33 PM
I have no idea what he's calling a "fly pin." Honestly, I think he made it up to confuse you...

What you're looking for is the woodruff or flywheel key. Make sure it's not sheared and still fits tight on the crank AND the flywheel.

86 Quad R
06-12-2008, 04:37 PM
what he said. it the woodruff key.

regg187
06-13-2008, 09:53 AM
Originally posted by Iliketogofast
I can't find this part on any parts diagram. I won't know what I'm looking at when I get in there, does anybody have a picture or a diagram with the piece circled? What is the proper name if I need to buy it?


part #
13331-360-000

Honda calls it a key, I've heard it called a keyway before

look at service hondas exploded diagram ,it is part #6 on the crankshaft diagram.

Oh that part # is for an 88 but they should be all the same.:)

Iliketogofast
06-13-2008, 12:39 PM
Thanks again guys. I'm getting ready to go out and do it right now.

If it weren't for this site I'd be bankrupt for shop fees. :o

Iliketogofast
06-13-2008, 01:54 PM
It was sheared in two. One half was in the flywheel and the other was in the crank. I'll be going and getting another tomorrow.

One last thing - Any tips on making sure this won't happen again? Is there an aftermarket key that isn't so soft?

Thanks again guys.

screaminta
06-13-2008, 03:43 PM
The stock one is fine. The most important thing is that when you put the flywheel back on, make sure the two surfaces are perfectly cleaned, and that the flywheel is seated on the good and tight. After you tighten the nut down, take it back off and try to pull the flywheel back off by hand, you shouldn't be able to. At least you got it figured out though!!!!!!

Aceman
06-13-2008, 05:18 PM
Looks like screaminta called it by the third post...nice job!

Let us know how she runs when you get it back together.

Iliketogofast
06-13-2008, 05:28 PM
I just rode it to my grandmas house about 3 country blocks from here. It's pretty quick, runs good. Starts right up.

But for some reason the top end is kind of boggy. It doesn't cut out or anything it's just like it doesn't have much top end. The master link on the chain is binding because it is too big I think, that may be it. Otherwise I can't think of what that may be.

Especially in 6th, it's like you have to be screaming to even be able to pull 6th. If you keep it pinned though it will eventually pull it. Pretty weird but it's very rideable. Really fun, it's the first time I've actually ridden the 310.

Edit:

I rode it some more. It seems like when it gets to the top it just sort of revs up but there is no power. It just revs up really high. What could be the problem?

I don't think it's the clutch, because it shifts nicely and the clutch engages and disengages nicely, if I have it up on a stand in 1st the wheels won't even turn if you pull in the clutch.

Also when I pulled the plug, the outsides were black while the inside white part was tan, with one little black area. Most of the ground strap was also tan.

It's really strange.

screaminta
06-15-2008, 09:40 PM
I 'd do a plug chop to verify jetting, before you start rippin on her. Any 310 should pull 6th gear no problem. First change that link then put a new plug in and do a main jet plug chop. Whats your jetting now anyway? Lastly, check that your clutch is indeed engaging fully if it is screaming but not moving that could definetly be an issue.