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troybilt
05-19-2008, 07:02 AM
Just curious, anybody have a 2nd or 3rd gen 5.9 cummins diesel truck? What mileage are you getting? I've got an '06 and I'm lucky to get 15 mpg highway with it, 35" tires, 20k miles on odo, Edge Mileage Max programmer, etc... I think its a lemon. We bought 3 exact same trucks a year ago, and mine is the only on that gets crappy mileage... mines also the only one with 4.5' lift and 35's, but that shouldn't make that much difference... I wouldn't think. My last 01 cummins, did 18 mpg no problem with 35's, bone stock otherwise.

CannondaleRider
05-19-2008, 01:00 PM
I have an '07 3500SRW, stock....I'll get 15 on the street, but I don't exactly drive it nicely...I'm always in a freakin hurry, lol.

But, I do a LOT of highway miles with the racing. Got back from Hollister, CA this morning, 1400 miles round trip, averaged about 18.7.

NacsMXer
05-19-2008, 01:03 PM
Originally posted by troybilt
Just curious, anybody have a 2nd or 3rd gen 5.9 cummins diesel truck? What mileage are you getting? I've got an '06 and I'm lucky to get 15 mpg highway with it, 35" tires, 20k miles on odo, Edge Mileage Max programmer, etc... I think its a lemon. We bought 3 exact same trucks a year ago, and mine is the only on that gets crappy mileage... mines also the only one with 4.5' lift and 35's, but that shouldn't make that much difference... I wouldn't think. My last 01 cummins, did 18 mpg no problem with 35's, bone stock otherwise.

The tires will hurt your mileage if the truck isn't re-geared from stock to compensate for the extra rotating mass. Does it still have the stock gearing by chance?

Dinner
05-19-2008, 01:12 PM
The tires and lift are hurting your MPG. And with only 20 thousand K, the engine isn't even broke in yet so your mileage still can go higher than that once broke in.

In the winter I was getting 23 Highway with my 99. I'll have to go back out again sometime soon and see what it is now that summer blend is back and my air filter is changed.

And I'm not too knowledgeable with Edge products..not a big fan of them. Is that max mileage box just timing, or what?

troybilt
05-19-2008, 01:37 PM
Yeah the mileage max is just timing basically, bw fuel pressure and map sensor. Also, 35 more horse and 7-15% increase in mileage....supposedly. Its brand new product from Edge, came out 2 weeks ago. It has helped some. I was getting around 220-240 on 1/2 tank, and now I've been getting around 280-300 miles on 1/2 tank. BTW 35 gal tank... but 282 is the best I've seen and that was approx 14.9 mpg.

No its the stock gearing, 3.73's. Probably try 4:30 or 4:10's in it next. I did have the dealer reprogram for the larger tire OD right after I installed the lift and tires.

I thought there would be a few toyhaulers pullers or race trailers pullers on this site that might run a cummins and have some insight. I appreciate the help. $4.55/gal here for diesel
:eek2:

lawdog800
05-19-2008, 02:13 PM
My 2006 gets 10-11 in the winter pulling a 40' gooseneck race trailer, in the summer with 315's (stock in winter)..I am getting 12-13 around town and 15-16 on the e-way.. I only have about 16000 miles...no muffler and Amsoil filter in the stock box. I just got a Bully Dog Triple Dog Power pup Downloader..whew.. that the previous owner said got 2 1/2 to 3 mpg increase in tow/economy mode..we will see about that...

Nick110
05-19-2008, 06:32 PM
Originally posted by troybilt
I appreciate the help. $4.55/gal here for diesel
:eek2:

Consider yourself lucky, Diesel around me is over 5 bucks now.

riverhonda
05-19-2008, 10:35 PM
my dad has a few 6.7 cummins with the 6 speed for his company and he loves them they are getting 14mpg but they are weighing in at 16,000 pounds

Pappy
05-19-2008, 10:43 PM
2005 3500 6 speed

11-15 mpg towing (40 ft gooseneck and 16 ft enclosed)

25+ mpg around town

just busted 100k miles and running strong!

Dinner
05-19-2008, 11:46 PM
Originally posted by Pappy
2005 3500 6 speed

11-15 mpg towing (40 ft gooseneck and 16 ft enclosed)

25+ mpg around town

just busted 100k miles and running strong!

Don't mean to call you out, but you will not get 25MPG around town, no matter what you do to the engine.

You could Maybe, and I mean maybe see 25MPG highway, running with the wind and staying around 1600-1800RPM which will be around 90-100km/h with 3.55 gearing but I doubt it!

Specially being as you are weighing in at around 7800lbs or more, the CR Cummins aren't THAT good on fuel...

Pappy
05-20-2008, 12:58 AM
think what you will.....i benefit nothing from stating something other then what i get:p

troybilt
05-20-2008, 08:13 AM
We have 6 cummins trucks, 3 06's, 2 01's, and 1 99 with mixture of 6 speeds, 5 speeds, and autos. Mine is the only one not getting "reasonable" mileage. Our 99 3500 has 200K on it and it gets 16-20, loaded or not. We pull the sh#t out of it too. Pull swathers and other farm equipment. I hardly ever pull with mine, I used to have a 24ft Pantera offshore boat, but that didn't weigh very much. I also have 14ft, "makeshift" toy hauler that I pull to the dunes occasionally. Maybe you're right, its just not broken in.

My uncle, claims 25mpg with his 05 2500 6 sp 4x4. Its a crewcab long bed. I dunno, no proof of that, but I've heard a few 25mpg with cummins before.

My 03 Duramax did get 25mpg, but it was a regular cab "worktruck" with tonneau cover, and a 6 sp. I could almost get 700 miles on a tank of fuel. I should've never gotten rid of it.

Dinner
05-20-2008, 12:51 PM
It is rare to get above 23MPG on a Cummins, specially if you are running a 4X4 quad cab and a 6 speed. The 6 speeds will get less MPG than the 5speed or the automatic due to the lower gearing in the G-56.

You said you get 25MPG around town, there isn't a Diesel truck that would get that. That would be saying you get 825 miles to one tank driving around town...sorry but no. Highway, maybe...but you would have to be a 2 wheel drive, 5 speed or automatic driving at 1700RPM. With a 6 speed driving around 1700RPM, 2wd, you would be close to 19.

With your Duramax, what size of fuel tank was on the truck?

And if you are reading off the overhead console for the MPG...You may want to learn when to reset it for actual fuel consumption. However if you have put any mods on your truck, it will be reading wrong. Always hand calculate your MPG..

bwamos
05-20-2008, 01:11 PM
Originally posted by Dinner
Specially being as you are weighing in at around 7800lbs or more, the CR Cummins aren't THAT good on fuel...

7800lbs???

Curb weight for a 3500 is ~5200lbs. depending on options.

25mpg isn't unobtainable if you are light on the pedal. Diesels get better mileage than gasoline does. But, if you have a lead foot it drops significantly very quickly.

troybilt
05-20-2008, 01:13 PM
Sorry, no I always hand calculate. My truck is the work truck version and has almost no options. No power window, locks, etc, and no overhead console... 35 gallon tank. Same goes for the Duramax that I had too. Only difference was the Duramax was a regular cab not a quad cab, similar equiped, and I could get from 22 to 25 mpg, on the highway, (not in town), driving 60-65 miles per hour. I drove it from Manhattan, Ks to Lancaster, Pa and averaged around 20-22 mpg.

I have a 35 gallon tank in both trucks mentioned. So 700 miles, is around 20 mpg average on a tank, with the Duramax. It was bone stock too.

My Cummins gets about 250 miles on a half tank, 18 gallons. That is 50/50 in town and highway. I've never gotten over 400 miles on a full tank, 30-32 gallons, when the light comes on.

Here's a pic: Nothing too wild.

400exrider707
05-20-2008, 03:47 PM
Originally posted by bwamos
7800lbs???

Curb weight for a 3500 is ~5200lbs. depending on options.

25mpg isn't unobtainable if you are light on the pedal. Diesels get better mileage than gasoline does. But, if you have a lead foot it drops significantly very quickly.

Dang, might as well be a car... now I know why they get better mileage, half the dang weight!

I cant see a 3500 only weight 5200lbs... maybe with a gas motor.... no even still!?

My 06 F-250 4x4 extended cab is 7600 curb weight.

Also for anyone questioning mileage, always hand calculate! The new fords typically have a 2-5mpg lie factor built in!

I am bone stock except 34" tires, and my custom tuned SCT and I get the exact same mileage as I did stock, except now I'm a lot faster than stock!

NacsMXer
05-20-2008, 03:51 PM
Originally posted by 400exrider707
Dang, might as well be a car... now I know why they get better mileage, half the dang weight!

I cant see a 3500 only weight 5200lbs... maybe with a gas motor.... no even still!?

My 06 F-250 4x4 extended cab is 7600 curb weight.

Also for anyone questioning mileage, always hand calculate! The new fords typically have a 2-5mpg lie factor built in!

I am bone stock except 34" tires, and my custom tuned SCT and I get the exact same mileage as I did stock, except now I'm a lot faster than stock!

I was thinkin the same... my 99 4x4 F-150 with the 5.4 gasser weighs in somewhere very close to 5000. A big 3500 weighing in at only 5200 seems a little off :confused:

Pappy
05-20-2008, 05:40 PM
I do hand calculations, and track my milage due to taxes. Your free to think what you like, and town to me has 1 stop light, I aint no city dweller.

200 mile trip today with the small enclosed trailer, 2 UTEs netted over 17 mpg, and I do not have a lead foot. Learn to drive and not do math all day:p You can always get more out of a truck or tractor that has more power then you need, ya just dont use it all.

I also spoke with david from Raceday pics who has a 3500 dodge dually and he to expressed milage similiar to mine, both towing and not. My mustang will easily reach 25 -28 mpg (5 speed 4.6) and once again, I keep my foot out of it. Hell, my blown 5.0 would get over 20 and ran 11's! The wife drove it to work daily!

Blue250X
05-20-2008, 05:57 PM
Originally posted by Pappy
I do hand calculations, and track my milage due to taxes. Your free to think what you like, and town to me has 1 stop light, I aint no city dweller.

200 mile trip today with the small enclosed trailer, 2 UTEs netted over 17 mpg, and I do not have a lead foot. Learn to drive and not do math all day:p You can always get more out of a truck or tractor that has more power then you need, ya just dont use it all.

I also spoke with david from Raceday pics who has a 3500 dodge dually and he to expressed milage similiar to mine, both towing and not. My mustang will easily reach 25 -28 mpg (5 speed 4.6) and once again, I keep my foot out of it. Hell, my blown 5.0 would get over 20 and ran 11's! The wife drove it to work daily!

That would be a daily drive and gas saver I wouldn't mind being seen in!!! Was it carbed or fuel injected? Thats good mileage either way. Also, I was reading an article in car craft where a guy built an F-body trans am with the T56 tranny (double overdrive) that got 25mpg and ran 12s.

Pappy
05-20-2008, 06:34 PM
91 lx 5.0

no clue why, but with 3:73's she would get great milage IF you kept your foot out of it, the wife drove it non stop when she was pregnant with cody


and i see plenty of diesel truck owners that drive them like they are a race truck, im way past that stage and dont mind putting down the road:p

lawdog800
05-20-2008, 09:49 PM
I weighed my 2003 Dodge 3500 Quad cab Short Bed 4x4 Cummins / auto with Portable Scales that are/were Certified By the State of Michigan for Commercial Vehicle Enforcement. I came up with 7100 lbs. When I went into Windsor Ontario one night their scales at the Detroit/Windsor tunnel showed 7500 lbs with 2 of us in the truck, bout 400 lbs of people weight which puts the truck at 7100 lbs as well.

parkers30
05-20-2008, 10:19 PM
Originally posted by Blue250X
Also, I was reading an article in car craft where a guy built an F-body trans am with the T56 tranny (double overdrive) that got 25mpg and ran 12s.

Most anyone running a 6 speed F-body will tell you they run in the upper 20's or low 30's if they set cruise and drive sanely (around 70).

In my my 96 f-250 i get around 20-22 with an auto, so I would imagine the Cummins with a 6-speed could do that well.

j_cyrus3
05-20-2008, 11:20 PM
Originally posted by 400exrider707
Dang, might as well be a car... now I know why they get better mileage, half the dang weight!

I cant see a 3500 only weight 5200lbs... maybe with a gas motor.... no even still!?

My 06 F-250 4x4 extended cab is 7600 curb weight.

Also for anyone questioning mileage, always hand calculate! The new fords typically have a 2-5mpg lie factor built in!

I am bone stock except 34" tires, and my custom tuned SCT and I get the exact same mileage as I did stock, except now I'm a lot faster than stock!

How do you like the SCT?

I have a 2000 model stroker, im getting a Tony Wildman reburn for my TS.

My truck gets about 16-18 depending on how you drive it. Thats with 18's and 33 inch tires.

Dinner
05-21-2008, 12:54 AM
Originally posted by Pappy
I do hand calculations, and track my milage due to taxes. Your free to think what you like, and town to me has 1 stop light, I aint no city dweller.


Why didn't you just say 25MPG highway instead of around town. And I do know how to drive thank ya :D I'm just big on Cummins ISB Engines, more so the 24 valves and am still learning more and more as I go through my schooling...

That is why I was saying what I was, I miss understood you. Thought you were saying you get 25MPG city...

I don't believe a 3500 is 5200lbs...the engine alone is almost 1000lbs.

I drive a 99 3500 Cab and Chasis model with home made flatbed and I weigh in around 7800lbs.

troybilt
05-21-2008, 07:04 AM
Originally posted by NacsMXer
I was thinkin the same... my 99 4x4 F-150 with the 5.4 gasser weighs in somewhere very close to 5000. A big 3500 weighing in at only 5200 seems a little off :confused:

I just checked the website and the curb weight is 5900 lbs. Seems low to me, also that is probably a 2wd regular cab 3500.

Pappy
05-21-2008, 08:40 AM
Originally posted by Dinner
Why didn't you just say 25MPG highway instead of around town. And I do know how to drive thank ya :D I'm just big on Cummins ISB Engines, more so the 24 valves and am still learning more and more as I go through my schooling...

That is why I was saying what I was, I miss understood you. Thought you were saying you get 25MPG city...



I dont live in a city, so I drive around town:p

My boss is a die hard chevy/gmc owner and he couldnt get much over 22 mpg with his 2500. I caught crap everytime we drove somewhere due to my dodge doing better...lol

Dinner
05-21-2008, 12:16 PM
Originally posted by Pappy
I dont live in a city, so I drive around town:p

My boss is a die hard chevy/gmc owner and he couldnt get much over 22 mpg with his 2500. I caught crap everytime we drove somewhere due to my dodge doing better...lol

Yea, Ford and GM have a hard time holding their own in regards to fuel Mileage. Heck our new 6.4 PowerStroke at work is barely getting 10MPG, and it is a 2wd reg cab:eek2:

With a CR Cummins, you should be around 18+MPG Highway, depending on mods, tranny, gearing, tires, lifts, truck model, etc.

Do you have anything done to your truck Pappy, or is it stock?

IOWAracer
05-21-2008, 12:21 PM
My cousin has a bully dog power programmer on his 2500 Single cab 05 6 speed and his MPG read out says 28 and he says its not false and that is messinga round on a friday night in town...

BB

Pappy
05-21-2008, 12:37 PM
mine is bone stock. id like to get one of teh programers or controlers and now that it is broke in i might

troybilt
05-21-2008, 12:49 PM
How long did it take to get broke in? I've got around 17k miles.

I just installed the EDGE Mileage Max, it was 250 bucks and adds 35 horse, installs in 2 minutes, and definitely helped mileage wise. Plus you don't have to worry about the tranny or EGT's like other programmers. I'm hoping my gets broke in soon...

Pappy
05-21-2008, 12:52 PM
lol i have no clue when technically it was broke in, but around 60k i started getting better milage and could feel it loosen up if that makes sense.

im ready to switch to synthetic oils now so hopefully she will just keep on pullin!

troybilt
05-21-2008, 01:27 PM
Yes, that makes sense, but it took 60K miles... geez, I've got a LONG way to go then. I've heard anywhere from 13K to 30K until its broke in. I sure hope its sooner than 60K, at the rate I'm going that'll be 4 years from now...lol.

400exrider707
05-21-2008, 02:28 PM
Originally posted by j_cyrus3
How do you like the SCT?

I have a 2000 model stroker, im getting a Tony Wildman reburn for my TS.

My truck gets about 16-18 depending on how you drive it. Thats with 18's and 33 inch tires.


Love my SCT, I wouldn't buy anything else for a 6.0. Just got my Xtreme Race tune from Innovative Diesel. Torque converter is locked in 2-5, and it pulls very nice. SCT is also the ONLY programmer for a 6.0 that tunes the transmission instead of just de-fu

400exrider707
05-21-2008, 02:29 PM
Originally posted by j_cyrus3
How do you like the SCT?

I have a 2000 model stroker, im getting a Tony Wildman reburn for my TS.

My truck gets about 16-18 depending on how you drive it. Thats with 18's and 33 inch tires.


Love my SCT, I wouldn't buy anything else for a 6.0. Just got my Xtreme Race tune from Innovative Diesel. Torque converter is locked in 2-5, and it pulls very nice. SCT is also the ONLY programmer for a 6.0 that tunes the transmission instead of just de-fueling. Also has dyno proven to put down the most HP. I will have dyno sheets in the coming months, we have a dyno day planned for all the upstate diesel guys. I'm hoping to get about 440rwhp and 775 rwtq. Bone stock other than the programmer.

As far as the motor breaking in, all depends how it's used and what motor. For my 6.0 the standard seems to be between 30K and 50K.

I've run Amsoil full synthetic 15-40 since 20K miles. I'm at about 30K now, still haven't changed it yet and dont plan on it for a while, and yes I am getting analysis done to back it up.

Also I would like to say one thing, this is my only advice I can offer on this, do NOT buy a programmer just to get better mileage. Mod for power, not economy, and if you happen to get a little better economy, then good, but dont buy it with the sole purpose of doing that. I have an economy tune on my programmer and I dont use it, because it doesn't work. The higher power programs offer better mileage anyways.

troybilt
05-21-2008, 02:58 PM
Yes, I agree, with a diesel, many times more power equals better fuel eco, as long as, you keep your foot out of it. When a diesel lugs is when they get the worst mileage.

The mileage max does increase horsepower, and even more horsepower could increase fuel eco further on mine since the larger tires and lift, but it is also more expensive. $250 is not much for a 7-10% improvement, which I've already experienced. Its just the fact that I need about a 25-30% improvement to get to 20mpg highway...:eek2:

For 7%, it takes about 10000 miles to pay $250 off at $4.50 gallon.

The EDGE juice w/attitude was closer to 900 bucks.

just my $0.02.

Dinner
05-21-2008, 11:39 PM
Originally posted by IOWAracer
My cousin has a bully dog power programmer on his 2500 Single cab 05 6 speed and his MPG read out says 28 and he says its not false and that is messinga round on a friday night in town...

BB

The overhead readout is probably wrong. Once you add any type of box, programmer, chip to the truck the Overhead will read incorrect due to the changes that occur throughout the ECM and CAN BUS.

Dinner
05-21-2008, 11:49 PM
Originally posted by 400exrider707
Also I would like to say one thing, this is my only advice I can offer on this, do NOT buy a programmer just to get better mileage. Mod for power, not economy, and if you happen to get a little better economy, then good, but dont buy it with the sole purpose of doing that. I have an economy tune on my programmer and I dont use it, because it doesn't work. The higher power programs offer better mileage anyways.

Depends what type of person you are and whether or not your soul purpose is to get better MPG, or more power, or both(to a certain point).

I do not know much about the 6.0 Navistars so I can't say anything about what chips work with that engine.

However in regards to a ISB, there are a few things to do to receive better mileage. One is to upgrade to a different style of injector. Quite a few people have ran Bosch 275's and noticed a 0.5-2MPG increase(depends on well everything on the truck, etc). Add a type of programmer, whether a Smarty, Edge Max Mileage, Edge EZ, Quadzilla Max Mileage, Quadzilla XZT+, or even the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Most of those boxes and programmers have a setting that is dedicated to just timing, which will usually show up with a slight increase of MPG as well. I only run the XZT+ and when I keep it on the Timing setting and go for long drives, I do notice a difference compared to running with the box off. Last thing some people will say is to make sure your MAP sensor and more importantly your IAT sensor is/are clean. If they are dirty(more so the IAT sensor), they could be reading incorrect and not fueling the truck properly.

And yes it will probably be a good 50k before the engine begins to "set in":cool:

troybilt
05-22-2008, 06:51 AM
Originally posted by Dinner
Depends what type of person you are and whether or not your soul purpose is to get better MPG, or more power, or both(to a certain point).

I do not know much about the 6.0 Navistars so I can't say anything about what chips work with that engine.

However in regards to a ISB, there are a few things to do to receive better mileage. One is to upgrade to a different style of injector. Quite a few people have ran Bosch 275's and noticed a 0.5-2MPG increase(depends on well everything on the truck, etc). Add a type of programmer, whether a Smarty, Edge Max Mileage, Edge EZ, Quadzilla Max Mileage, Quadzilla XZT+, or even the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Most of those boxes and programmers have a setting that is dedicated to just timing, which will usually show up with a slight increase of MPG as well. I only run the XZT+ and when I keep it on the Timing setting and go for long drives, I do notice a difference compared to running with the box off. Last thing some people will say is to make sure your MAP sensor and more importantly your IAT sensor is/are clean. If they are dirty(more so the IAT sensor), they could be reading incorrect and not fueling the truck properly.

And yes it will probably be a good 50k before the engine begins to "set in":cool:

Thanks Dinner. That's what I'm afraid of... I read in the the Cummins forum about the IAT sensor as well. Can you tell me more about this? Where is it located? I'd like to check this. Also, any thoughts on K&N filter setup, or exhaust for mileage??

lawdog800
05-22-2008, 09:25 PM
Stay away from K&N filters for your Cummins..They DO NOT filter the air fine enough. Friend works in the Diesel lab at Jeep / Truck Engineering here in Detroit, and they had several engine failures where the rings were worn out of trucks and every one had K&N filters... They dont filter low enough microns compared to others. I use an AMSOIL filter in the stock box.....flows more and filters better than stock...

j_cyrus3
05-22-2008, 09:49 PM
Originally posted by lawdog800
Stay away from K&N filters for your Cummins..They DO NOT filter the air fine enough. Friend works in the Diesel lab at Jeep / Truck Engineering here in Detroit, and they had several engine failures where the rings were worn out of trucks and every one had K&N filters... They dont filter low enough microns compared to others. I use an AMSOIL filter in the stock box.....flows more and filters better than stock...


K&N are known for that. That's what's on my truck right now :ermm:

As soon as I can save up some money im going with AFE stage 2 intake.

Dinner
05-22-2008, 11:53 PM
Originally posted by troybilt
Thanks Dinner. That's what I'm afraid of... I read in the the Cummins forum about the IAT sensor as well. Can you tell me more about this? Where is it located? I'd like to check this. Also, any thoughts on K&N filter setup, or exhaust for mileage??

"IAT" Sensor stands for "Intake Air Temperature" Sensor. If this sensor is dirty with soot, it sometimes won't read properly and the truck fuels itself wrong.

Since the sensor is unable to read the accurate intake temp (it will usually read a lower temp than what it actually is) the ECM sees that the intake temp is colder than what the actual temp would be if the sensor was clean. This causes the truck to fuel itself more due to seeing the lower temperature.

I'm assuming it is around the same location on the CR's as it is the VP and P-Pump ISB's....

Pop the hood and find the intake horn, follow the intake manifold back towards the firewall. Along the side of the intake manifold there will be two sensors sticking out. The first one that you find will be the MAP Sensor, about oh 5 inches further back towards the firewall will be the IAT Sensor. (On the VP Cummins, the MAP Sensor requires a larger socket than the IAT Sensor. I can't remember the socket sizes right now however, but I'm assuming it is the same set up on the CR's).

Once you have found both of the sensors. Unplug them, take them out, clean them with brake clean, carb clean, whatever and then re-install and plug back in.

In regards to K&N for air filters, I would not recommend them, just like lawdog800 stated. They allow fine dirt to pass through which after awhile of running one. You can usually find dirt/dust on your turbo fins:eek2:

Exhaust doesn't really help you all that much for Mileage on a Diesel. Only thing exhaust does is sound cool(which usually results in a lower MPG since you are always on the skinny pedal) and help lower EGT's, which is a good thing.

Giz400ex
05-23-2008, 04:24 AM
Originally posted by Dinner
"IAT" Sensor stands for "Intake Air Temperature" Sensor. If this sensor is dirty with soot, it sometimes won't read properly and the truck fuels itself wrong.

Since the sensor is unable to read the accurate intake temp (it will usually read a lower temp than what it actually is) the ECM sees that the intake temp is colder than what the actual temp would be if the sensor was clean. This causes the truck to fuel itself more due to seeing the lower temperature.

I'm assuming it is around the same location on the CR's as it is the VP and P-Pump ISB's....

Pop the hood and find the intake horn, follow the intake manifold back towards the firewall. Along the side of the intake manifold there will be two sensors sticking out. The first one that you find will be the MAP Sensor, about oh 5 inches further back towards the firewall will be the IAT Sensor. (On the VP Cummins, the MAP Sensor requires a larger socket than the IAT Sensor. I can't remember the socket sizes right now however, but I'm assuming it is the same set up on the CR's).

Once you have found both of the sensors. Unplug them, take them out, clean them with brake clean, carb clean, whatever and then re-install and plug back in.

In regards to K&N for air filters, I would not recommend them, just like lawdog800 stated. They allow fine dirt to pass through which after awhile of running one. You can usually find dirt/dust on your turbo fins:eek2:

Exhaust doesn't really help you all that much for Mileage on a Diesel. Only thing exhaust does is sound cool(which usually results in a lower MPG since you are always on the skinny pedal) and help lower EGT's, which is a good thing. Are you just familiar with Cummins? or with other makes also?

troybilt
05-23-2008, 06:54 AM
Originally posted by Dinner
"IAT" Sensor stands for "Intake Air Temperature" Sensor. If this sensor is dirty with soot, it sometimes won't read properly and the truck fuels itself wrong.

Since the sensor is unable to read the accurate intake temp (it will usually read a lower temp than what it actually is) the ECM sees that the intake temp is colder than what the actual temp would be if the sensor was clean. This causes the truck to fuel itself more due to seeing the lower temperature.

I'm assuming it is around the same location on the CR's as it is the VP and P-Pump ISB's....

Pop the hood and find the intake horn, follow the intake manifold back towards the firewall. Along the side of the intake manifold there will be two sensors sticking out. The first one that you find will be the MAP Sensor, about oh 5 inches further back towards the firewall will be the IAT Sensor. (On the VP Cummins, the MAP Sensor requires a larger socket than the IAT Sensor. I can't remember the socket sizes right now however, but I'm assuming it is the same set up on the CR's).

Once you have found both of the sensors. Unplug them, take them out, clean them with brake clean, carb clean, whatever and then re-install and plug back in.

In regards to K&N for air filters, I would not recommend them, just like lawdog800 stated. They allow fine dirt to pass through which after awhile of running one. You can usually find dirt/dust on your turbo fins:eek2:

Exhaust doesn't really help you all that much for Mileage on a Diesel. Only thing exhaust does is sound cool(which usually results in a lower MPG since you are always on the skinny pedal) and help lower EGT's, which is a good thing.

Excellent information. Thanks for the help!!!

Dinner
05-23-2008, 12:08 PM
Originally posted by Giz400ex
Are you just familiar with Cummins? or with other makes also?

I'm mostly just familiar with Cummins ISB Engines, which are the P-Pump 12 Valves, VP 24 Valve, and the CR 24 Valves, more so on the VP engines though. Also know a bit about the trannies, but more so the 47re tranny, stuff like that.


And your welcome troybilt, if you have anymore questions I'll try to answer them to the best of my knowledge.