going long travel, best set up?

[mineralgrey01gt]

Ok so ive decided to knock out the front suspension and I priced it all to go standard travel and after reading about long travel, I decided to go ahead and go all the way with it. Now my question is this, what set-up should I go with?

I know its gonna cost me no less than $1700 for a long travel set-up (thats how much the l/t on ebay is, laeger +2 arms with Elka shocks). I plan on just buying new unless I can get some very good stuff used.

How good are the roll design a-arms? I saw they are $1295 or something around that on their site. I was thinking of them with some Elka's or PEP's possibly.

If you have some feedback on any long travel set-up, let me know. Im game to hear it all!!!

[312R1]

I have the PRO-TRAX with piggyback Custom Axis and I love this setup..IMO it's the best money can buy.


-Steve

[mineralgrey01gt]

Id love to have that front end, its kinda pricey but im sure its just like other things, you get what you pay for. Im going to look into that one also. I may try to pick up a used set up in that one. Ill see what I can find.


Any other experiences from anyone?

[my88r]

Originally posted by 312R1
I have the PRO-TRAX with piggyback Custom Axis and I love this setup..IMO it's the best money can buy.


-Steve

but thats also going to KILL the bank:p

[312R1]

Originally posted by my88r
but thats also going to KILL the bank:p


Not really..I paid right around $1,400 for my shocks and you can find a pro-trax front end on ebay anywhere from $700 to $1,100. So it's not that much more then the other set up's.


-Steve

[my88r]

most of those USED pro-trax are junk and need a rebuild. so you half to figure in that price. depending on who does the rebuild. its a nice set up though.:D

[mineralgrey01gt]

Originally posted by 312R1
Not really..I paid right around $1,400 for my shocks and you can find a pro-trax front end on ebay anywhere from $700 to $1,100. So it's not that much more then the other set up's.


-Steve

I have a quick question about that pro-trax front end. I have to use the spindles with the a-arms and tie rods right? What about the steering stem? I already have an anti-vibe stem, I know it wouldnt be hard to get rid of but do I need the one for the pro-trax front end?

[brokenbones]

go with the protrax with 19.25 shocks you can buy them for good prices just dont hurry to buy hte first one that comes around

as far as junk i dont believe that to be true i have them on both my Rs and a spare hanging on the garage wall they are tuff as nails and pretty cheap to rebuild if you go thru baldwin motor sports for parts and do the labor your self

the only thing i would be sure of is to make sure they are 250r spindales and not 400 ex spindales that way you wont have to buy those adapter plates for baldwins

my 2 cents

[my88r]

Originally posted by brokenbones

as far as junk i dont believe that to be true i have them on both my Rs and a spare hanging on the garage wall they are tuff as nails and pretty cheap to rebuild if you go thru baldwin motor sports for parts and do the labor your self



when i say junk i mean condition. laeger stuff is the best out there imo:macho

[mineralgrey01gt]

Im gonna look around and see if I can find that set up. If not, what about Roll Design a-arms with some custom Axis shocks? Ive always heard absolutely nothing but good things about Roll Design and custom axis.

[312R1]

Originally posted by mineralgrey01gt
I have a quick question about that pro-trax front end. I have to use the spindles with the a-arms and tie rods right? What about the steering stem? I already have an anti-vibe stem, I know it wouldnt be hard to get rid of but do I need the one for the pro-trax front end?


Yes you have to use the spindles with the arms and you have to use the stem, but most of the time people sell it all together.

-Steve

[deathman53]

I have a roll design +3 front end and a t-pin +3. I like the t-pin better. One thing about the roll design, when my friend bought it(I bought the bike from him ~1 year after he built it), he was strongly told to get the best results from it, to use 400ex spindles. I don't know the exact reason why he was told that.

[bushwesl]

Originally posted by deathman53
He was strongly told to get the best results from it, to use 400ex spindles. I don't know the exact reason why he was told that.

I've heard that as well. If I remember correctly it was something to do with the added camber from the EX spindles? Or something like that.

You can find deals out there though. I picked up my long travel front end for $1,300. Chrome +3 LSR DC-4 arms, chrome +1 LSR stem, and fully adjustable 19.25" Custom Axis shocks. All in new condition.

[mineralgrey01gt]

thank you everyone for all the info so far! It has been very helpful. I believe my shocks will be Custom Axis for sure, its just the a-arms im kinda thrown up in the air about. If I can find a good deal on a T-pin front end then ill rock that.


Keep the long travel info coming. Any little bit of advice or info will help!

[deathman53]

If you do get a t-pin and it needs to be rebuilt. You can do it yourself for $360 and access to a press. I called places about mine and just gagged over the price they wanted to rebuild it. I looked over them, make some phone calls to friends and found out how easy it is. I love the t-pin on my 250r, If I had the money to spare(don't think anybody does), my roll design front end would get replaced with a t-pin. Do you have a 86/87, 88, or 89 front end?? If you have a 89 front end, there is some money you will save if you get a t-pin. They use 89 250r/400ex hubs and as another brought up, ask if it uses 250r calipers or 400ex, the new ones(even 250r) use 400ex calipers and you need those $200 adpaters or downgrade to 400ex brakes.

[mineralgrey01gt]

I have a full 86 front end with laeger (or houser)anti-vibe stem and houser clamps. I wanted to go with the 89 spindles and hubs anyways since I dont really care for the set up of the 86's. How much does laeger rebuild them for? I plan on doing the work myself if it needs a rebuild but im just curious as to how much it will cost.

[Nac's22]

I run a Walsh +3 lt front end with PEP ZPS shocks. Its sick. There is so many things that can be adjusted on them (shocks). Its really a great front end. Price wise Walsh is really expencive but with the way my bike handles and the way that you can adjust everything on the a arms as well I think it was worth it. On another note if you do buy a used t-pin make sure that it isn't a +4 front end. Some of the leager frames are the narrow frame design and use a +4 a arm to make it to the 50 inch mark. I'm sure you knew that already but if you didn't well now you do.

[mineralgrey01gt]

thanks for the info. Im not worried about it being too wide in the front since I dont race the quad any. Most of my riding consist of wide open areas so wider may be better for my situation. Im still looking for that perfect front end for what I need but ill find it soon enough. I probably should buy new plastics first, but oh well.

[250Renvy]

I hope this helps

My first question is why do you want to go long travel when you were ready to sell the machine a little while ago - is sinking another half of what already have into it really worth it if you end up deciding to sell again?

2nd question - what do you plan to do with the machine? A lot of people - I myself included buy stuff that they don't really need just because it's cooler or newer. If you are not planning on racing, long travel is 100% NOT necessary, even the pros got along with standard travel for a lot of years.

Here's some other things to consider: Long travel is kind of a misnomer as the travel isn't really increased but the shocks are longer so technically they are long shocks.

IF you buy used - make sure you buy something that is setup for your weight and riding style. Changing spring rates is costly and can drive the price of your used shocks up to close to new cost.

Also make sure you know what you are buying. Don't buy something beyond your riding ability and don't buy something that doesn't have features you want. A lot of people try to sell compression only shocks as fully adjustable for higher prices because often people don't know what to look for.

I have Custom Axis and Elka. I find the axis to be a little more plush but they are more expensive and usually have less spring rates. To the average rider Elka's are pretty top notch and usually are cheaper because there are so many dealers.

Anyway good luck.

[mineralgrey01gt]

I plan on using this 250r for jumping, and a lot of it. Its not for sale anymore. I was selling to help my g/f out with school but all of that was taken care of so its off the market, i just never changed my sig. I know I want atleast +3 +1 a-arms and the T-pin front end has that (im pretty sure). I know I can get it in standard travel but its not too much more for the long travel front end so im just gonna pay the little extra and get that

[bushwesl]

Originally posted by mineralgrey01gt
I know I want atleast +3 +1 a-arms and the T-pin front end has that (im pretty sure).

I'm pretty sure that it came in lengths from +4 through +1, so you'll have to watch out for that. A lot of people don't know what they, typically from buying the ATV to part, and will incorrectly advertise it, so you've got to be careful of that as well.

[Pro1200]

WALSH/ PEP all you need

[ct350trx]

On ebay +3 laeger's protrax front end

ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-TRX-250R-Laegers-ProTrax-T-pin-A-arms-suspension_W0QQitemZ280226248912QQihZ018QQcategory Z43974QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)