Builders - How to calculate a new garage

[derekhonda]

Hey guys.

I'm in the market for a house, found a nice one just on the edge of town for a real nice price.

BIG PROBLEM - NO GARAGE ! ! ! !

I'm just trying to factor in how much it's gonna cost me to build a nice garage. I'd Like a 2 car garage with plenty of room in the front for a tool box, the quad, a couple of work benches and enough room to manuever around.

So what size do i need? 24x24? 24x30? 30x30?

So I guess the three main questions:

Cost to lay the cement.
Cost of Materials (wood, shingles, garage door, entry door, lights, etc)

And cost of builder if I can't rope my buddy into doing it for beer.

Thanks Guys. I've been looking online and trying to find some wood calculators but no luck. Thanks again.

[billdogg]

There are too many variables for this to just throw out a number.

You could go to Menards, they off garage packages that include all the building material for one price excluding the foundation and slab.

Also, call up contractors around your area, and get some quotes.

As far as space, build as big as you can afford.

[01 400EXer]

I have an attached garage that is 24 deep by 28 wide and it is not beig enough. The width is not to bad but the depth should have neen at least 6 feet deeper and I am not sure that would be deep enough for you with what you are looking to do with the work benches, the quad and room to move around. The 2 vehicles we keep in our garage is a full size truck and an Expedition. There is a decent amount of room on the sides and my quad fits in the middle.

I will soon be looking to build a new garage that is either 30x50, 40x60 or somewhere in between. I am leaning towards the bigger because I do not think the 30 feet deep is big enough.

Like stated above there are many variables that determine the size. Calculate some measurements of what you plan to put in the garage and how much room you want to move around. This willl help you determine the size and you may also want to add 10% to ensure you have plenty of room.

These are just my thoughts from growing up on a farm and building a lot of barns, machine sheds and a shop. It seems like no matter how big you build it, it will fill up quickly and you will think to yourself you wish you would have built it bigger.

[mittman]

we have 30x35 garage with a workshop on top that was 18-20,000 back in the 90's that was for wood, shingles, concrete, plumbing doors, electric, heating we thought it was big enough for all our stuff but when u go into our attic you will find lots of camero parts (sold car in 93) car/atv parts, trim for the house, christmas stuff, plumbing stuff, mislanious stuff such as old antique crap, old tools and more thats been 14yrs lol so just make sure you give youself extra room for stuff you accumulate over the years.

[ZeroLogic]

Ya need more details, once you figure out the size and whatnot I can give you a rough estiment.

[LT250_JOE]

I built a 16x16 building behind my garage(16x35) last april for $2200. No concrete slab. 12 foot high at peak. siding, shingle roof, 2x4 walls, single car garage door, side door. That 2200 also paid for a porter cable air nailer(for framing).

I would go with 30x30. If you pay someone to pour slab and build the rest yourself, I'm roughing it and would say you could go 30x30 for 10-12 grand.

[derekhonda]

I realize there are a ton of variables, I was just asking for a rough estimate of materials.

So for a 30X30 building how much should the lumber be?

Concrete?

Shingles?

Doors, lights, trivial stuff?


Think it could be built for 15k?

Thanks.

[billdogg]

Check it out. Gives you a pretty good estimate of material excluding foundation and slab.

click me (http://menards.com/featuredProjects.do?dispatch=garagesMain)

[bulkdriverlp]

for a stick built garage like you want is gunna be about 30k. why dont you just build a pole barn style for a fraction of the cost??
go home improvement store, they have builders calculators to make it easy to do the calculations.

[JOEX]

I'm in the middle of building a 20X30 shop with 10' walls. Local codes limit me to 600sf for an accessory buliding and i'm using every inch:p

Like the others have said there will be many variables.... your geographical location will probably be the biggest variable. It ran me about $5000 for the slab on grade foundation. It could possibly be anywhere from $2000 to $10,000 or more for your location.

I'm doing the rest of the work myself with the help of a few friends. Hoping to stay under $20,000 and closer to $15,000 for the entire project minus the approach pad.

Build the biggest you can afford.

Here's where i'm at now....

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c278/JOEX400/Garage/garage2-26-08002.jpg

[300exOH]

My friend and I built my garage in 2001. It's a 24x32 pole building. I was able to build it then for $10K give or take a few $$. That includes materials, electrical, concrete and misc. We did most of the work ourselves and only hired someone to pour and float the concrete. It's big enough for most average tinkerers. At one point I had my truck, wifes car, 4 quads, large toolbox, compressor and a bunch of misc stuff and I still had room for a workbench.

I would guess it would cost more around $15K in materials to build it now since lumber prices have gone up.:ermm: plus what ever you have to pay a couple of buddies to help with the build. I doubt 24x24 will be quite enough for what you want. I would go at least 24x28 or bigger if possible. Like stated above go as big as you can afford. You wont regret it.

[derekhonda]

Thanks for the reply guys. Yeah I talked with a builder today (current roomates dad), he said he could build it for 10-12k minus the concrete.

The menards thing started to intrigue me also...specifically http://menards.com/featuredProjects.do?sortBy=title&page=0&type=3%20or%20More%20Cars&dispatch=showOneGarage&code=1955808

Does that include the wood? I'm kinda confused...seems like a good deal if i can get a slab poured for 2 or 3 grand and a couple buddies over for a weekend or two.

[Regular_Joe]

My parents did something like that kit from 84 Lumber. There was nothing to spare. Everything was super cheap. A lot of the wood was crap, warped, twisted, etc. If you went and got the wood yourself it would be a lot better quality. Myself I don't think I'd go that route.

[billdogg]

Yes it includes the lumber. Like said, pick out your own lumber, don't let the idiots who work there pick it out.

The thing is, if you don't do this for a living, you're going to be making 1000 trips to the store to buy stuff because you forgot something. Buy a package deal, and it's all there on paper, everything you need.

If you go to the store, they'll give you a print-out of everything that's included for the price.

[300exOH]

Forgot to mention that my garage was actually one of those kits bought through carter lumber. It was fairly complete but I still ended up making a 1000 trips to the lumber yard/home center...you just can't avoid it if you are doing the job yourself. Most of the trips I made weren't for lumber though. It was once I got into the electrical and finish work that I had to make a bunch of trips for stuff. I do agree with the fact that you should pick the lumber yourself if you can. Some of mine were pretty twisted including a couple of the roof trusses. But a quick call to carter lumber and they would send out replacements for the bad wood. It did slow down the project at times though because we were left with nothing to do until we got the replacements for the lumber that was no good. If you do order a kit... just look over every piece of lumber and send back what you can't use for replacements before you start the project.

[Bradracer18]

It should be fairly easy to calculate. Draw it up, wall by wall.


You need a stud(length of wall height) every 16" and a couple on each end. Also need a couple around each window/door. And, you will need headers(2-2x6) for each window or door too. As for the big garage door, you will have to have a large header in there, to span the gap. I would suggest a 2x12, or an LVL. Probably two of these nailed together is the best.

Then, see how much plywood(1/2") you will need for the wall coverings(figure this by area). You should also be able to do this with siding. Remember you need corners on each corner, J-trim for all windows/doors, starter strip, and J-trim for the top all the way around.

As for the roof, I would buy a rafter package. Then figure the area once again, for the plywood(5/8") and shingles and tar paper. You will also need ridge cap the length of the roof. You will also need drip edge that will go all around the roof on all sides and up the peaks.

You will need to make "overhangs" with 2x4 or 2x6. And you will need some type of board to go all around it for a soffet. You will need(depending on how fancy) some soffet stuff too.

That should pretty much cover the outside....other than doors/window/concrete/dirt work.

PS...I'm just young(23) so don't know a whole lot...just take this as advice, I'm not positive and typed this pretty fast.

[Regular_Joe]

If its anything like any project I have done .... make an estimate based on materials, double it, and that will be the actual cost.

I redid my bathroom. Priced out a Tub, Shower Walls, Vanity, and Floor. By the time I was done the little things like sheetrock, screws, paint, caulk, wiring changes (GFI outlets are outrageous), different lighting, etc. doubled my price.

My biggest mistake was I didn't factor in faucets, damn those are expensive. I was thinking like $50. Haha. The faucet for the vanity was more than the vanity itself. Same for the shower, the faucet and all was more than the tub. I spent almost $200 on screws between the floor, sheetrock, etc. GFI outlets are like $10 each instead of 50 cents like a normal one.

Its the little things that add up to be a lot. I don't do it everyday, so it takes a lot of planning and thinking to make it come out right too.

[Bradracer18]

Another thing I didn't mention, about the interior.....if you plan to wire it, draw that up too. Copper is pretty expensive now-a-days, and wire will be too!