No-Link Requirements

[bushwesl]

I'm in the process of building an LSR no-link framed R with an LSR DC-2 no-link swingarm. Am I going to have to make any more modifications to make this setup work? Is there anything I should be aware of before I start switching over to the LSR no-link frame?

More specifically, I'd like to know if my intake, carb, and stock air box are going to work. I'm currently running a stock cylinder spacer plate motor with a RAD valve, 38 A/S carb, stock air box to carb boot, and a stock air box.

The thing is, I'm not going to be able to start working on this project until the end of June, but I'd like to be able to come home and swap everything over to this new frame and not run into any problems, and also have all of the parts needed.

Any insight here would be appreciated.

[deathman53]

your stock airbox won't work, it will hit the shock and swingarm. K&K used to sell no-link airboxes that use lt500 air boots the wrap around the shock, then you have to put a pipe of some type in the lt500 boot and use a piece of radiator hose(something like 2") to extend it another ~8 inches. I have found that a 85/86 atc250r airbox, if you cut the top off(~1" above the boot) and move it back fits perfect without hitting, wire tie the airbox in, and then use the stock airtube(85/86 atc250r) and extend the air tube using a piece of pipe and radiator hose how ever longer it has to go. However, then you have to switch over to using atc250r airfilters(easily gotten). This doesn't look good, but it works.

[bushwesl]

Not the news I was looking for...

Would an ESR air box eliminator kit work?

[Aceman]

I believe Havinnoj runs a no-link LSR frame, you might pm him.

[havinnoj]

Originally posted by bushwesl
Not the news I was looking for...

Would an ESR air box eliminator kit work?

Wes - my LSR R is a dual rear shock tower. I run ESR's airbox kit, but I use a longer length of tube from the carb. The bell of the carb sat 3" or so from the tower tab and was almost centrally located. Motor was a spacer plate motor, VF2's, UPP intake, and 39pwk.

The hose hits and you have to seriously bend it into the shock tower tabs. It works fine other than that. Just ask for a longer piece of hose - probably an additional 6" would be plenty.

If you just have a no-link mount then I don't believe you will run into this problem.

The bottom pipe mount doesn't line up in the right place - make a longer mount but make sure to use the stock rubber pipe mounts or you will crack something somewhere.

Round tube subframe made mounting sthe hock rezzi a pain.

You will want to spec out the nut/bolt you will use for the front motor mount (the bolt that goes through the front of the case). I believe it's a 10mm bolt, but make try to find the smallest head size possible as it's a real tight fit otherwise.

Thats about all the major problems I had. A few other minor misalignments at the time but easy to fix.

Post any more questions if you have them.

[richiesq75]

I have a stock air box, you just have to set it as far back as you can, not one crack. go to the auto store and get a longer hose and make up a couple of brackets and you are fine.

[bushwesl]

I appreciate all of the response here guys, but if there is any way that you could post some pics of your setups, or if you'd like, send them to my email address, bushwesl@msu.edu. It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Wes

[havinnoj]

I also had to cut threads higher on the rear brake cylinder shaft in order to adjust the brake pedal to the right position.

[bushwesl]

Which steering stem bearing and seals work on these aftermarket frames? Specifically an LSR.

[havinnoj]

Originally posted by bushwesl
Which steering stem bearing and seals work on these aftermarket frames? Specifically an LSR.

With a stock type and pro-trax stem, the whole stock steering stem bearings, seals, and races work fine.

[bushwesl]

What I was asking was, do they accept the 86/67 bearing and seal or do they accept the 88/89 bearing and seal?

[havinnoj]

Originally posted by bushwesl
What I was asking was, do they accept the 86/67 bearing and seal or do they accept the 88/89 bearing and seal?

I believe they use an 89 style.

The top bearing and seals are the same. The collar has a couple of different numbers but I believe it is the same. The bottom seals are different sizes but not by much.