Whats the best way to get this out??

[pdxbigfoot]

getting to the assembly of my motor and having a tough time getting this bearing out (19) Its part #91021-148-004
Any suggetions?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated
jason

[pdxbigfoot]

here

[the Z Man]

Go to the aprts store and get a cheap slide hammer, then fab something to slam it out with.

[pdxbigfoot]

i spent the last 5 hrs trying to do.If i dont have any luck by noon tomorrow i am going to call the Snap On guy and try to find a better attachment for a slide hammer.It is down in there about 3 inches and the top one was a real pain as well.I have a slide hammer but the prong attachment is garbage and i pretty much had to perform surgery with a dremal to get the top one out...Thank god i have a steady hand. Do you think Honda has a special puller just for these??

Thank you all as always..J

[havinnoj]

I'm not familiar with that removal process, but I'm thinking you could use the correct size socket (and extension if needed) and a hammer to drive it out.

Thought the bike was about to be done.....whats up now:eek2: :D

[pdxbigfoot]

And its so stupid sick!!! But im waiting to get it all done before i post any pics (its a surprise) As far as the bearings they press down to the bottom of the clutch arm and they are a one way kinda deal. They press down and there is no way to get behind them....??
I even took 3 days off from work to devote to the motor and ran into this....CRIPES!!!

[Dave83]

If you are willing to mess up the paint on your case,you can take a propane torch to the case.It shouldnt take much heat to free the bearing.

[Aceman]

When I rebuilt my engine, I left that bearing in there. More by accident, than on purpose. I assembled the whole engine and had one bearing left over in my bag of parts, WTF?? Then I realized there was one at the bottom of that hole!

You can try heating the case, but I'll bet you'll need a slide hammer too.

[Rich250RRacer]

I've only removed that bearing once in any of the motors I've done, and the way I did it was risky, but the bearing was bad and it had to come out. I have a blind bearing puller which worked great for the top bearing, but the jaws were too short to reach the bottom one. Your very limited on space too, since that hole tapers down for the lower bearing. I used a small round punch with a flat tip, rested it against the lip on the bearing and smacked it with a hammer. One shot knocked the bearings and cage loose, the second started to peel and split the bearing shell. I then used a small chisel, 1/4" wide, and while resting it against the wall of the hole, split the shell the rest of the way. It fell right out after it was split. You will nick or mar the wall of the hole doing this, so make sure you have a small round file to clean up the burrs. After light filing and washing the case, the new bearing went in just as it should. Like I said, it's risky to do it this way, but if it HAS to come out, this may be the only way to get it without a special puller.

[pdxbigfoot]

Because....you guessed it...i just had my cases powdercoated and he just taped them off....lovely!!! so heating it is out of the queston...im lookin at new cases as we type..anybody got some?? Service still shows them in stock for 501.00 and ESR for 750.00 then i still have to get them machined.....not that its going to happen but i understand why alot of builds dont make it.... j

[chris46250r]

Would the putting it in the freezer method work for this?

[the Z Man]

Leave the bottom one in there for now, grease it up good.

[86 Quad R]

try and locate the proper blind bearing puller attachment that'll work for that bearing and take a small propane torch and heat the case up from the inside. once its heated up the bearing should pull out much easier.

[Dave83]

I would heat it from the inside as Randy has suggested .Like I said before,you will be surprised how little heat it takes on the aluminum case to get it to expand just enough to free the bearing up

[pdxbigfoot]

But i have made the executive decision and im gettin new cases.I have spent alot of $ on this build and no expense has been spared so why should i start cuttin corners now. I was pretty unhappy with my powder on the cases as well so the bearing was the catalist for my decision Thank you all for your input and advise.....This will put me back another week or so but i promise there will be pics soon....Jason

[86 Quad R]

wanna sell em old cases? :cool:

[pdxbigfoot]

they have fresh red powder which like i said i wasent too happy with. they also have been repaired in the ussual spot, at the case saver mounting location. The drain bolt has also been repaired but seems to have had a good job done to it. Anthony Weber in Eugene did the work and he is a mad scientist of sorts. They are also bored to accept a Pro-X cylinder. they would be pretty good with some time invested in them (and of course the bearing situation) it just that my O.C.D. kicked in and if things are not flawless i lose what little sleep i do get. I will try to get pics today and will post later....im open to offers.
Thanx again....Jason

[danhung11]

I copied this from one of Rick250RRacer's posts.... looks like you went the wise route with the new cases. Boooyah!
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If your cases are good, the left side bearing should stay in the case when you press the crank out. Something that most don't know is that 250R's are known to sometimes wear crank bearing bores. If your crank bearings are not a press fit into the cases, it's time to replace them. The same goes for the crank, the left side is a press fit into the bearing. And as I have said dozens of times on here, when reassembling DO NOT try to hammer or pound the crank into the left side, there is a proper tool to do this correctly. If you don't have the tool, you can use a heat sink on the inner race and freeze the crank.
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[the_hulkamaniac]

I made a tool for doing this some time ago. If I can find it I will try and snap a pict. It's a long bolt (fully threaded) and I cut some grooves in it, like a thread tapper I backed a nut to the top then sunk/screwed it into the bearing. Then using two wrenches one to hold the bolt steady and the other to back off the nut it pulled the lower bearing out cleanly. I did use a bit of heat and wd40 to help smooth out the process.

[86 Quad R]

where's the pics and price for the old cases? :confused: