Nitrous Guru's

[pro-rider46]

i could buy a nitrous kit for a quad but they are like 700 bones, but i got thinking about making a kit just buying the parts individually, and i think that i would need...

-solenoids F&N
-fuel pump
-steel braided line
- arming switch
- the actual boost button, or wot switch
- and some wiring
- oh and a bottle

is there anything i am missing???

[wilkin250r]

An injection nozzle, with jets.

And you'll need to throw a couple relays into your "wiring".

[pro-rider46]

oops forgot the nozzle and jets,and relays. there isnt anything else wilkin?

[pro-rider46]

i added this all up, and its about 350+or- a few bucks, this might be done in the near future, doesnt look to hard to do.

hey wilkin, how does the ratio go as far as nitrous to fuel go, is it like a 1:1 ratio or like 13:1 or something idk how it goes.

[416exfreak]

Instead of asking him, do some research and find out for yourself.

You might pick up even more knowledge along the way that will help you when you finally decide to try and build your own kit.

All I can say, is...I hope you have patience and a couple of spare engines...:ermm:

[pro-rider46]

well i took your advice and did my own research, now to make sure its right i will post up the info and make sure its good by asking people who have experiance with nos...


Because nitrous is more oxygen-rich than air, the recommended air fuel ratio becomes 9.5 parts of nitrous to 1 part of fuel (9.5:1). That means when oxygen-rich nitrous is introduced additional fuel must also be supplied in order to maintain the optimum ratioWithout the additional fuel the mixture would become dangerously lean - circumstances that will almost always lead to severe and expensive damage.

[pro-rider46]

Originally posted by 416exfreak
All I can say, is...I hope you have patience and a couple of spare engines...:ermm:

i have patience, but the spare engines i dont, i dont plan on getting a 100 shot or anything, i will probably only go as far as like 25, and thats only if i decide to get it.

[blasterfreak99]

i would just save up and buy a boondockers nitrous system. it is supposed to be one of the safest ways to put nitrous on a quad. that way you dont have to worry about prematurely blowing it up

[wilkin250r]

The only people that are afraid of nitrous are those people that have never used it.

As far as a "ratio" for nitrous, don't worry about it. You don't figure it out that way. It's like your carburetor, we all know it's 14.7:1 ratio, but you don't actually calculate that out. You put a "158" jet size into your carburetor and test it.

Similar with nitrous. You'll use separate jets for nitrous and fuel, and you'll usually start off intentionally rich with fuel and test it. If it's too rich, the general method is to decrease the fuel jet (although you could increase the nitrous jet, but I wouldn't recommend it) and test again until you get the jetting dialed it. It's all done with jet sizes, you don't calculate with stiochometric ratios.

Obviously, things like fuel pump pressure and nitrous bottle pressure will affect your jetting.


On my kit, my fuel jet was supposed to be larger than my nitrous, like "24" and "22". But that was only a factory recommendation, in the end, they were the same size jets for each.

[wilkin250r]

Now, here are some small bits of advice I will give you for building your own system.

You've got to know a little bit about small plumbing, like compression fittings and such. The bottle-to-solenoid plumbing is pretty easy, it's just a braided line with the proper fittings. Similar with the fuel pump-to-solenoid. But the nozzle can have some goofy fittings on it, and you'll need to know how to work with them, and where to find them. This was one of the areas I didn't know when I put together my own kit. You'll need to pay special attention to pressure ratings on the nitrous lines, both before and after the solenoid.


You'll also need to know your electronics, and exactly how the relays work. Input voltage on the coil side, and the current rating on the contact side.

If you know your electronics well, you can get any old generic relay, Radio Shack has them, provided you know the specs you need to meet. However, I would HIGHLY recommend a brand-name injection nozzle and jets, you don't want to Jerry-rig your own injection system.

[pro-rider46]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
Now, here are some small bits of advice I will give you for building your own system.

You've got to know a little bit about small plumbing, like compression fittings and such. The bottle-to-solenoid plumbing is pretty easy, it's just a braided line with the proper fittings. Similar with the fuel pump-to-solenoid. But the nozzle can have some goofy fittings on it, and you'll need to know how to work with them, and where to find them. This was one of the areas I didn't know when I put together my own kit. You'll need to pay special attention to pressure ratings on the nitrous lines, both before and after the solenoid.


You'll also need to know your electronics, and exactly how the relays work. Input voltage on the coil side, and the current rating on the contact side.

If you know your electronics well, you can get any old generic relay, Radio Shack has them, provided you know the specs you need to meet. However, I would HIGHLY recommend a brand-name injection nozzle and jets, you don't want to Jerry-rig your own injection system.

yeah everything that i priced out was all name brand like NOS, NX, or cold fusion, and my dad is really good with electronic stuff so he could probably help me out, and i found a diagram for a single stage that seems like it shows me everything i will need...

[scottsworld]

i would also put a lower compression piston in it or a thick head gasket

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by scottsworld
i would also put a lower compression piston in it or a thick head gasket

I don't know as you would need "lower" compression, stock compression should be just fine. But I certainly wouldn't go high compression.

What is stock on a 450, but the way? I know the 400EX is like 9.4

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by pro-rider46
and i found a diagram for a single stage that seems like it shows me everything i will need...

Close.

The Hobbs switch is a pressure switch attached to the fuel line, and it only allows the nitrous to activate when you have at least 5psi of fuel pressure. Just a safety precaution (I never used one). If the nitrous isn't at full pressure, you just bog down from too much fuel, so nitrous pressure isn't a safety issue, but low fuel pressure can blow your engine.

The diagram doesn't show the fuel pump, you want your arming switch to turn on your fuel pump to give it time to pressurize. You don't want your fuel pump activated by the momentary switch, you want it already running when the nitrous is comes on.

[CSR400EX]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
I don't know as you would need "lower" compression, stock compression should be just fine. But I certainly wouldn't go high compression.

What is stock on a 450, but the way? I know the 400EX is like 9.4
stock compression on a 04-05 450R is 10.5:1, 06 and up is 12:1.

[pro-rider46]

well, i have a 12.5:1 on my 05 450r, idk if i should run it now, what are the dangers of running a high compression? i know this is different than a race car but my teacher runs 15:1 and a 800 shot, and he doesnt have any problems

[wilkin250r]

Nitrous and high compression can be combined together, but the danger factor goes up. You run a much higher risk of detonation, as well as increasing the likelyhood of blowing a gasket.

You can only squeeze so far before something gives.

[pro-rider46]

well should i go for it or just keep it the way it is, would it be safer to run race gas when i shoot nitrous? i dont want to ruin a piston considering the fact its a 300 doller piston

[wilkin250r]

Race gas will certainly add to the safety and reliability.