voltage regulator/thingy? anyone

[f150mann]

i beleive thats what its called... it is at the back of the subframe, theres 5 wires that go into it... black, red, pink, green and yellow

red and black are the ones from the keyswitch, they have live power, but the other 3 dont have anything, i need to know if they are supposed to have live? im thinknig my regulator might be bad.

if someone could check that would be awesome!!!!

thanks guys!

[REDRIDDER]

do you have a volt meter? and you can send me a pm if you want to talk on the phone i have a clymer manual.i just don't want to type everything out.ill send my cell number to you via pm.

[REDRIDDER]

this might help

[REDRIDDER]

2

[REDRIDDER]

3

[REDRIDDER]

4.....if this doesnt help check your pm and call me.

[f150mann]

dude, you are AMAZING! thanks! so it sounds like the green yellow and pink arent live wires then right,

[REDRIDDER]

here might help a little more

[f150mann]

i actually finally got one of those the other night, the only problem is, it only says the colors, it doesnt say if it should be live or not.

my problem is i have live coming from the key (black and red) to the regulator, but then theres no power anywhere else, see what i mean?

[REDRIDDER]

do you have a test light? i assume you do. call me.

[f150mann]

i sure do, but im in school right now, not home for a few hours yet

[lghickman21]

your other wires are diodes. to check if they are ok you need to get a ohm-meter to can test diodes. it will have a symbol kind of like this >| take your red lead from your meter to the red wire and take the black lead to each one of the other three wires that aren't red or black. you should read somewhere close to .500 give or take. if there is a bad one it will be way off.

when you are testing with the red lead to red wire you should get a reading then take the black lead to the red wire and you should get nothing. then do the exact same thing using the black wire. one way you should get a reading the other they should be open. hope that helps.

[REDRIDDER]

hold on a min if you can im trying to think.....

[f150mann]

definetly big help guys. ill try it out as soon as i get home.


i have a question now though, if one of those 3 wires is bad, would it make the entire bike have no live power in any wires?

and should i have the regulator plugged in when i do this?

[lghickman21]

when you are testing it you need to have it unplugged from your bike.

if your regulator rectifier is bad usually you can check your battery while the bike is runnning. if you are getting more than something like 13.2 volts and it never comes down then it may be messed up. you need to make sure you have a fully charged good battery when you test that though or it will be trying to charge the battery and the voltage will be high anyway.

[imc188222]

Its called reading a wiring diagram. At the voltage regulator, the red wire should be hot at all times, the black wire should be hot with the switch on, the yellow and pink wires should have ac voltage when the engine is running and the green wire should have an ignition signal when the engine is running. The ignition signal should be able to be seen with a multimeter on hertz setting. The wiring diagram alone gives you this information. You just have to know how to read it.

[f150mann]

well the problem is it cant run, im trying to find out why the bike has no live power

[f150mann]

well sorrry i dont understnd how to read it. im a machinist not an electrician. so i need the bike running to check it? balls man im trying to GEt ir to run...

[REDRIDDER]

Originally posted by imc188222
Its called reading a wiring diagram. At the voltage regulator, the red wire should be hot at all times, the black wire should be hot with the switch on, the yellow and pink wires should have ac voltage when the engine is running and the green wire should have an ignition signal when the engine is running. The ignition signal should be able to be seen with a multimeter on hertz setting. The wiring diagram alone gives you this information. You just have to know how to read it. x2 exactly

[f150mann]

any ideas where else to check? all i get is power to the regulator in black and red... no power anywhere else

[imc188222]

Not trying to be rude here, just trying to cut through the bull sh#i. If you can't read a wiring diagram and your quad has wiring problems then you should have someone who does fix it for you. These quads are extremely simple. If you lived close to me I would come over and help you fix it for free but without you having a basic understanding of what is going on no-one is going to want to try and walk you through this via the internet. I know you quad won't run, that was the jist of your other thread. I answered this thread's question.

[REDRIDDER]

have you check your grounds good?

[f150mann]

yep, checked them several times

[REDRIDDER]

your head lights,neutral light come on and work with the switch high low?

[f150mann]

if it is simple wtf is going on then? there is no one who can look at it but the dealer and i hate him, so i figured people like yourself who find this simple, would help.

the main thing i dont understand is, how does live power get to anything on the bike! if you follow the red and black wires on the diagram, which are the only two that get power from the key, they only go to the regulator.

[f150mann]

i have no headlights or neutral light is the thing, that was cut out over a year ago when previous owner put on race cuts plastics

[REDRIDDER]

when you get home i will go out into my shed look at my 400ex and try to walk you through this but you'll need a volt meter and test light i will do my best to help unlike some people who know it all and cant even be bothered to put fourth some extra effort for someone that doesn't understand whats going on.

[REDRIDDER]

just give me a ring when your home my cell # is in your pm box.

[f150mann]

thank you redrider, its easy to tell who the nice people are in the world. if you ever need anything custom machined lemme know and ill repay the favor!

one last question though, is there even anywhere else that is supposed to have live power? like is the cdi or anything?

[bigcountry8406]

this may sound dumb but have u checked your fuse on a ride 2 weeks ago i rode my bike really hard 4 about 4 hours when i cut it off it backfired and wouldnt turn over I automaticly diagnosed it as a short in the wiring but it was only the fuse. Im not saying you r dumb but we all panic and think of the worst when it is something simple.

[f150mann]

it isnt a fuse, like i said, there IS power in the red wire, without a fuse, there would not be!!!

[lorenjr83]

when you turn your key on do you have 2 wires at your solenoid that are live? one bigger one coming from the battery and there should be a smaller one that is live too.

EDIT
I forgot to say it should be live while pressing your starter switch.

[imc188222]

Look at the wiring diagram that someone already posted for you. The red wire goes from the battery, through a fuse, to the ignition switch and the regulator. Then the ignition switch connects the power to the black wire which feeds the neutral indicator, the regulator, and the starter switch. The start switch puts power to the yellow/red stripe wire (called the starter trigger wire) this wire goes to the starter solenoid.

[f150mann]

yes ive got that working, it turns over fine. but there is no fire at all. and no live going to the coil in order to get fire

[imc188222]

Ok, in order for the ignition module to fire the coil you are going to need (at the ignition module):

ground on the green/white wire,
NO GROUND on the black/white wire (your kill switch grounds this wire to shut the engine off),

an ignition pulse when cranking on the blue/yellow wire (this is best checked with a lab scope but if you have a multimeter with a hertz setting you can get a reading with one lead connected to the wire and one to ground. If the sensor is working you will get some sort of a reading when you crank the engine.)

I am not entirely sure what should be on the red wire at the ignition module, maybe battery voltage, maybe ac voltage. I don't have my quad here to test.

The easiest place to start would be at the coil. Make sure that the black wire is grounded. On the black/yellow wire there should be a voltage pulse, again best checked with a lab scope but you could also check it with a test light. Ground the test light and connect the probe to the black/yellow wire and crank the engine. The test light should flash. If the test light flashes but the coil will not fire then the coil is bad.

[f150mann]

thank you that was a very helpful post, i appreciate it. but i know that the black/yellow wire to the coil will not flash. it gets nothing, the rest i will check tonight!