Burnt clutch question

[kiesta00]

Ok my steels are pretty dark and colored from slipping the last time I ran it, question is...can I just sand blast them to get that glaze off of them; that way I don't have to buy new steels.

I guess the fibers have to be replaced, no matter what.

What do ya think? thx

Keith

[Aceman]

I believe the color change means you have changed the steels temper. They are probably warped also, I'd definitely replace them.

(Keep in mind, I'm no metallurgist.)

[kiesta00]

none of them look warped.

This new oem clutch didn't last long too long with the newfound power of that 310 lol...then the cylinder's not even ported for the 4mm stroke! I'm going to try HD barnett 400ex springs with 5 oem 250r steels and 1 400ex steel (all bead blasted)and new oem fibers. I will also bead blast the inner and outer hub. Anything to avoid buying an expensive lockup.

[GOTFEAR]

are they just blue or almost black if they are black you do need to replace them if blue you can bead blast or 400 sand paper

[86 Quad R]

i would deffinately check them for warpage. if they are then toss em.

[kiesta00]

I put them back in with the above setup...ARM PUMP setup for sure lol....sure seem to hold a lot more than my other setup. ESR's HD springs are not HD.

My steels were almost black, but they don't look warped. Whats the big deal if they turn black? Can't you just blast that glazed finish off? I may be way off here. Thanks

Keith

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by kiesta00
Anything to avoid buying an expensive lockup.

You shouldn't need a lockup. Lots of us run big motors on regular fibers and plates (although I think we all have at least HD springs).

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by kiesta00
Whats the big deal if they turn black? Can't you just blast that glazed finish off?

Thanks

Keith

black = excessive heat = potential warpage

did ya even check to see if they were warped in accordance with the sevice manual?

there's nothing at all wrong with blasting the plates to get the film off them as long as they arent warped. i do it all the time.

[kiesta00]

Just ran the bike for a few rips, its holding just fine. You know everything works perfectly in the field next door, but when you pay to go riding somewhere and drive 2 hours, then murphy opens his can of whoop-*** on the bikes!!

We'll see this weekend how it does at the track. Thanks for the help and tips.

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Originally posted by kiesta00
Just ran the bike for a few rips, its holding just fine. You know everything works perfectly in the field next door, but when you pay to go riding somewhere and drive 2 hours, then murphy opens his can of whoop-*** on the bikes!!

We'll see this weekend how it does at the track. Thanks for the help and tips.


Not if you do my clutch mod :eek2:

Now, you might need to do something about those left fanning clutch lever fingers cause after about two or three corners of trying to come out of those corners in the wrong gear & fanning that clutch lever to pump the power up, those fingers will be through, kpoot, wore out, BUT, you wont have to replace clutch plates in a good while.
Neil

[kiesta00]

Originally posted by C-LEIGH RACING
Not if you do my clutch mod :eek2:

Now, you might need to do something about those left fanning clutch lever fingers cause after about two or three corners of trying to come out of those corners in the wrong gear & fanning that clutch lever to pump the power up, those fingers will be through, kpoot, wore out, BUT, you wont have to replace clutch plates in a good while.
Neil

Well I only drag race with this bike so I just slap the clutch 1-4th gear then I get to rest those fingers a while! Thanks for sharing you secrets Neil.

Keith

[dustinshuler]

just my 2 cents, when I use to race nationals I was in a pinch one time and only had fibers and Mark Baldwin showed me a little trick. We found an old concrete center block and laid the metals on the flat side and did the wax on wax off methad to scuff the plates and then I put it all back together. I raced 3 more mx nationals that year along with alot of practice and never had another clutch problem. B.T.W. I was running a LRD 330 cyl in the open A class and finished 3rd in the Grand National series that year. It must have worked.

[kiesta00]

so Neil, pretty much any brand fibers work, as long as the steels are fresh and rough?

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Originally posted by kiesta00
so Neil, pretty much any brand fibers work, as long as the steels are fresh and rough?


Yup!, its all about putting more tension on the springs & taking up clearance.
High priced or cheap, either will work.
We been running a 30.00 dollar set of fiber plates from J&M ATV Supply in a 330 engine I built back in 04 with no problems.
I use Dexron II in the trans & change after every weekend race though.
Neil

[gimmie11s]

what springs do you recommend?

Is there a thread on your clutch setup Neil?

thx

[C-LEIGH RACING]

Originally posted by gimmie11s
what springs do you recommend?

Is there a thread on your clutch setup Neil?

thx

Its a thread or reply about it somewhere, but lord knows where.

CR 500 springs
Replace one 250R steel plate with one 400EX steel plate
One aluminum drain bolt washer under each spring bolt, (washers like are on the 250R transmission drain bolt)
Neil

Oh! & maybe an easy pull clutch lever

[T_Bag]

Originally posted by C-LEIGH RACING
Its a thread or reply about it somewhere, but lord knows where.

CR 500 springs
Replace one 250R steel plate with one 400EX steel plate
One aluminum drain bolt washer under each spring bolt, (washers like are on the 250R transmission drain bolt)
Neil

Oh! & maybe an easy pull clutch lever

Does it matter which steel plate you replace?

[C-LEIGH RACING]

No, just pull one out of the middle.
Neil

[k265r]

i never liked barrnets kevlar fibers wears the aluminum before the plates.