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yellow400exwb
03-21-2008, 01:21 PM
What do I have to do to change the rear brake pads on a 2002 250ex? I have taken the brake lever off and the bolts off the case but I can't get the cover off. I don't want to break anything. Do I have to take the axle nuts off? Thanks in advance for any help.

m.h.s.c.#527
03-21-2008, 04:44 PM
you know its a drum brake

yellow400exwb
03-21-2008, 05:23 PM
Yeah, I went ahead and took the wheel and axle nuts off. Then tried to remove the cover. The whole axle came over with the cover. I couldn't get the cover off the drum so I finally gave up and just put it back together. We are going to carolina adventure world tomorrow and I was hoping to get my sons brakes fixed by then but I guess he'll just have to use the front brakes.
I still need to fix it one day, so if someone has input or a copy of the brake section of a shop manual please help.
When he presses the brake lever the brakes stick and I'm really just trying to get it apart to see why.

jmvar
03-31-2008, 07:38 PM
Was just getting ready to post the same question for my 2001 250.

Does anyone have the shop manual they can share? I just ordered mine but I wanted to get to the brakes this week.

What exactly has to come off before that cover can be removed?

Yellow, once I get the manual I will post the info but hopefully someone will help us out here before then.

yellow400exwb
03-31-2008, 07:51 PM
ok, thanks

jmvar
04-07-2008, 02:51 PM
Hey Yellow, do you have a good set of tools? Drifts, big hammers, torch?

You will need it. I have the same symptoms you have. The reason it is doing this is because everything inside is corroded and siezed. You are going to have to beat the hell out of the drum to get it off the axle. Then you will have to beat the hell out of the cover to get it off the drum.

Pull the whole axle, you will have to remove both hubs. Them just pound on the drum until it comes off the axle. You will probably need a new bearing and a bunch of other stuff.

Once you pull the cover off you will have to use a seal puller to pull the seal, then pick through all the rust and find the circlip holding in the bearing. Take that off and then beat the bearing out.

I highly suggest you get a manual. If you have never taken out a rusted in bearing I suggest you take it to a shop and try and get a flat rate for the replacement of the rear shoes.

Let me know if you have any questions.

yellow400exwb
04-08-2008, 11:26 AM
Thanks for the help.

jmvar
04-10-2008, 09:01 PM
Well, luckily everything went back together a lot easier than it came out!!!!

Parts list:
-new brake shoes and springs
-bearing
-seal
-circlip
-large o-ring for housing
-brake actuator rod
-actuator rod seal

yellow400exwb
04-10-2008, 11:13 PM
How much did all that cost?

jmvar
04-11-2008, 12:15 PM
I just bought the quad and the previous owner gave me the brake shoes which I think are about $30 (EBC). I don't know if those are any good but it is my girlfriends quad so rear brakes don't have to be race ready.

The parts cost me about $95 from my local shop.

I also used a bunch of stuff I had in the garage. Disk brake grease, moly grease, lithium grease, brake parts cleaner, and a bunch of tools. I did have to borrow a huge open ended wrench to get the axle nuts off.

Hope that gives you and idea of the cost. I always see people on forums say "I did X to my bike and it was $95 in parts." Usually that doesn't take into account the stuff they already had in the garage to get the job done, so I wanted to give you a better idea.

BTW, my ears were ringing for 2 days after I pounded all the stuff out. That is how siezed everything was. Next time I am adding ear plugs to my shopping list.

Took it out for a ride last night and I think it needs a new brake cable from the hand brake to the actuator arm. Good thing is that I think it should be cheap.

Let me know if you have any questions. I can walk you through if you get stuck.