is this the right Mobile 1 oil to use???

[Glamis400ex]

I sure hope this is the Mobile 1 15w50 everyone is using.

Thanks,

Glamis

[Taco]

Originally posted by Glamis400ex
I sure hope this is the Mobile 1 15w50 everyone is using.

Thanks,

Glamis
That would be it:D

[AtvMxRider]

You got it!

[Honda2003]

whats the perpose of using 15w50 over the 10w30? is just do to the hotter climits(sp)?

[Glamis400ex]

thanks fella's.:cool:

Glamis

[Taco]

Originally posted by Honda2003
whats the perpose of using 15w50 over the 10w30? is just do to the hotter climits(sp)?

For one the 10w30 has the API certification. Which means it includes certain friction modifiers that may make your clutch slip.15w50 does not contain these:D

[Glamis400ex]

just an observation....

I did notice since I put the Mobile 1 in the 400ex, when I started it, it was noticable less hot then when I started it yesterday with the other oil. Yesterday, for some reason I really noticed the intence heat coming off it, seemed almost excessive comparred to today...

This is my 1st experince with Mobile 1, we'll see what happens...

Glamis

[Live2Ride300]

I run GN4 10W40 in my 300EX. Will it hurt anything if keep using it through out this winter?

[Ride400]

i ran it all last winter, and it worked fine.

thats it! The bottles here in NY are slightly different though. Pretty interesting

the mobil 1 15w-50 oil I get has a motorcycle on it and says V-twin on it... that's just regular motor oil but syn???

[Doibugu2]

Rico, that's what I was looking for, where were you able to find it?

Originally posted by Rico
the mobil 1 15w-50 oil I get has a motorcycle on it and says V-twin on it... that's just regular motor oil but syn???

i believe that mobil 1 is a 20w50 right? its there v twin version

[Mxbubs]

Thats not it. Thats not the mixture for wet clutches. What Rico, V-twin motocycle is what you are looking for.

could u get a pic of what u r talking abt because i have never heard of it and its not on there site. I have been using the 15w50 supersynth and it has been great. it is a car oil but it doent have the friction modifiers

[Glamis400ex]

Great....just great....

Did I get the wrong stuff? I am going out on the 28th -2nd so I need to be sure I am good to go.

Please, someone respond if I have dumped the wrong oil into my 400ex. I cannot afford this to be wrong.

Glamis

[86atc250r]

That's the right stuff.

Mobil1 also makes the "V-Twin" oil which costs double.

In my opinion you are basically paying double for the pic of the motorcycle.

Essentially it's the same oil. The only real difference is the V-Twin has a little extra zinc, which is a good thing, although I don't believe it justifies the additional price or is necessary.

[Glamis400ex]

Gabe,

Thank you so much for your input. Very much appriciated.....:D

Glamis

[mysticfalcon]

Thats the stuff my 400 always got

[ridefastrgetoff]

of Mobil 1 Synthetic -vs- Amsoil Synthetic 5w-30; I realize this is not what we would use in ATV's but it makes me wonder about the other weights of oils too. Hey, at around $6/qt., that's pretty darn good ! The V-Twin oil is about $7/qt. I think


http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/amsoil_vs_mobil1.htm

www.SyntheticsExcel.com

[Quadfather]

I get the Mobil 15w/50 at Target for $3.49 a quart.

[ridefastrgetoff]

Not even Walmart competes with that and that's for Mobil 1 Synthetic ? Wow ! That's great !

www.SyntheticsExcel.com

www.mxstates.com

Originally posted by 86atc250r
That's the right stuff.

Mobil1 also makes the "V-Twin" oil which costs double.

In my opinion you are basically paying double for the pic of the motorcycle.

Essentially it's the same oil. The only real difference is the V-Twin has a little extra zinc, which is a good thing, although I don't believe it justifies the additional price or is necessary.

well chit, I did not know that..:mad: thanks fer the info..;)

[Mxbubs]

You need to get the motorcycle oil, it is made for wet clutches. I know this because I can see the Mobil Polyolefins plant from my house, they make the oil there. Dont learn the hard way like I did, get the oil made SPECIFICALLY for wet clutch setups.

[86atc250r]

Give it up man - the chain of events you described for your clutch basket failure is absolutely ridiculous - besides the fact that there are literally hundreds of folks using this oil with no trouble what-so-ever.

You continue to ignore the numerous articles written about this oil for use in motorcycles, you also continue to ignore that various studies have shown conclusively that "motorcycle" labeling traditionally means nothing and in fact in many cases mean you are getting an oil that doesn't perform as well as it's "non-motorcycle" equivelent...

If paying double for your oil because it has a picture of a motorcycle on the label makes you feel better, then by all means do so - but until you can come up with something other than wild speculation on why your clutch basket self-disassembled your posts don't carry much weight on the subject, especially when compared against the results of hundreds of other members using the same oil you claim "destroy's clutches".

[AtvMxRider]

I use the "automotive type" Mobile 1 and love it. I haven't had a seconds trouble with the clutch slipping.

[Mxbubs]

Articles? What articles are you talking about?

You mean this one?

Q: What about using Synthetic Oils in my clutch?
A: Synthetic oils, by their very nature of better heat resistance and improved lubricating properties, would seem to have an advantage. This is an advantage when it comes to lubricating an engine or transmission, but turns into a disadvantage when used in a clutch. This increase in lubricating properties (they are slippery) can cause an old, worn out clutch to fail. The purpose of the oil in a wet clutch is to cool, not to lubricate. The more 'slippery' an oil is, the more likely a clutch is to slip, resulting in increased heat and creating excessive wear.
While most high performance clutches are designed to work with synthetic oils, it is not recommended that they be used by most clutch manufacturers. Synthetic blends are usually considered acceptable.

From http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdclutch.htm

[Mxbubs]

Oh, this one is even better.


http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~hasl/oildealers.htm

All of us motorcycle specific oil manufacturers have always stated not to use automotive oil in motorcycles. As of late everyone is now saying that too including: magazine editors, automotive oil manufacturers and OEMs. It all started with the introduction of API SJ rated motor oils. The Energy Conserving specs do not allow the use of certain anti-wear materials like zinc for instance. So to make up for those missing anti-wear ingredients they add Friction Modifiers and these are known to make wet clutches slip.
API SJ is fairly new and already JASO has stepped in with their MA and MB certifications because of the large problems that the API SJ ratings have caused in regards to wet clutch slippage. Castrol and Mobil are huge automotive oil manufacturers as you know and they have recently entered the US market with their motorcycle specific motor oils. They also recommend to use motorcycle specific motor oils and not auto oil for motorcycles. If you compare the price of MOBIL 1 for autos to their comprable full synthetic oil for motorcycles you will see a huge price difference. Rightly so because it is not the same oil in a different bottle, it is a special formula designed for motorcycles and it goes way beyond the clutch issue. You'll find the same true with Castrol. The OEMs like your friends at Kawasaki have already got on the JASO MA band wagon and are recommending it for motor oils with the API SJ approval. Unfortunately the JASO spec only relates to clutch slippage but what about the other issues like the high anti-wear properties of motorcycle oils or the high flash points because they must work in air-cooled, oil-cooled and water-cooled engines. High flash points mean no oil volatility. What about the polymers used that can withstand the shredding effects of transmission gears so you will hold your viscosity rating. I could go on and on.

The fact is most people that own street bikes at least in the US use Castrol GTX auto oil found at just about any grocery store, Wal-Mart etc, and its very inexpensive. Will your bike blow-up and the clutch smoke, etc.? Probably not, but you may or may not experience clutch problems, many have.

The average guy doesn't care and doesn't ride that much. We manufacture high performance specialty lubricants for motorcycles, the average guy is not our customer. Our customer logs many miles or in your case kilometers and wants the best for his bike in performance and protection.

:eek:

[ridefastrgetoff]

will experience clutch failure at some point in their riding career; some won't but most will ! It does no good to argue about this subject because all of us, no matter which side of the fence we are on, are convinced; the unfortunate part is that some will not change their minds until they experience cluth failure ( hopefully that doesn't happen ). NOW ! Here's what most of the big advertisements don't tell any of us: Most every professional riders and some amateurs also, change clutch plates after every moto ! Yes, every moto ! No matter how much stress they put on their clutch, one moto won't usually give them problems and they don't take the chance of waiting and why should they, afterall, their sponsors are paying for them anyways !

www.SyntheticsExcel.com

www.mxstates.com

I thought I would tell you all, Chris Adams is the web master and photographer for mxstates.com and he's adding new states every year; I think there are over 10 states now represented on his site ! He takes photos of everyone, not just the pros and his site has become very popular because of it !

[Taco]

Originally posted by Mxbubs
Oh, this one is even better.


http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~hasl/oildealers.htm

All of us motorcycle specific oil manufacturers have always stated not to use automotive oil in motorcycles. As of late everyone is now saying that too including: magazine editors, automotive oil manufacturers and OEMs. It all started with the introduction of API SJ rated motor oils. The Energy Conserving specs do not allow the use of certain anti-wear materials like zinc for instance. So to make up for those missing anti-wear ingredients they add Friction Modifiers and these are known to make wet clutches slip.
API SJ is fairly new and already JASO has stepped in with their MA and MB certifications because of the large problems that the API SJ ratings have caused in regards to wet clutch slippage. Castrol and Mobil are huge automotive oil manufacturers as you know and they have recently entered the US market with their motorcycle specific motor oils. They also recommend to use motorcycle specific motor oils and not auto oil for motorcycles. If you compare the price of MOBIL 1 for autos to their comprable full synthetic oil for motorcycles you will see a huge price difference. Rightly so because it is not the same oil in a different bottle, it is a special formula designed for motorcycles and it goes way beyond the clutch issue. You'll find the same true with Castrol. The OEMs like your friends at Kawasaki have already got on the JASO MA band wagon and are recommending it for motor oils with the API SJ approval. Unfortunately the JASO spec only relates to clutch slippage but what about the other issues like the high anti-wear properties of motorcycle oils or the high flash points because they must work in air-cooled, oil-cooled and water-cooled engines. High flash points mean no oil volatility. What about the polymers used that can withstand the shredding effects of transmission gears so you will hold your viscosity rating. I could go on and on.

The fact is most people that own street bikes at least in the US use Castrol GTX auto oil found at just about any grocery store, Wal-Mart etc, and its very inexpensive. Will your bike blow-up and the clutch smoke, etc.? Probably not, but you may or may not experience clutch problems, many have.

The average guy doesn't care and doesn't ride that much. We manufacture high performance specialty lubricants for motorcycles, the average guy is not our customer. Our customer logs many miles or in your case kilometers and wants the best for his bike in performance and protection.
last time i checked 15w50 didnt have API certification.

[86atc250r]

Articles? What articles are you talking about?

I've provided several in direct response to your claims, and mine actually included scientific data. If you've chose not to read them that's not my fault.


You mean this one?

Q: What about using Synthetic Oils in my clutch?
A: Synthetic oils, by their very nature of better heat resistance and improved lubricating properties, would seem to have an advantage. This is an advantage when it comes to lubricating an engine or transmission, but turns into a disadvantage when used in a clutch. This increase in lubricating properties (they are slippery) can cause an old, worn out clutch to fail. The purpose of the oil in a wet clutch is to cool, not to lubricate. The more 'slippery' an oil is, the more likely a clutch is to slip, resulting in increased heat and creating excessive wear.
While most high performance clutches are designed to work with synthetic oils, it is not recommended that they be used by most clutch manufacturers. Synthetic blends are usually considered acceptable.

That's not an article.... That's a general opinion/answer to a general question on a Harley Davidson FAQ...

While it may sound good, the real issue (and you've said this yourself) is not synthetic vs conventional if you're talking clutch slip... It's friction modifiers.

If you're going to post info, it would probably make you a little more credible to read it well enough that it doesn't counter any points you've attempted to make in the past.

Also, it suggests that "more slippery" oil has a tendency to make old, worn out clutchs slip (doesn't an old & worn out clutch slip regardless?) and doesn't cause problems with a properly maintained clutch. Does this make any suggestions about the level at which you maintain your machine? If it does, should we be taking advise from you?


Also note that many Harley owners use Mobil1 15w50. Some have went as far as to do a spectral analysis on Mobil1 15w50 vs HarleyDavidson HD 360 oil and have found that the Mobil1 has higher levels of zinc and phosphorous than even Harley's own oil :eek:




All of us motorcycle specific oil manufacturers have always stated not to use automotive oil in motorcycles.

Wow, there's a shocker!

I wonder why? Could it be because if truth be known that their oil is typically no better than the "non motorcycle specific oils" and no one bought their oil, they'd be out of business?

I suppose if a used car dealer told you that Corvette you're checking into was driven only by a little old lady on Sundays you'd take his word and buy it site unseen?



API SJ rated motor oils. The Energy Conserving specs do not allow the use of certain anti-wear materials like zinc for instance.

Direct misinformation (or ignorance - this is from a "Motorcycle oil manufacturer" - makes a person wonder what this guy's motives are or what his knowledge level really is). Zinc and phosphorous are still allowed in the SJ designation. The SJ designation simply puts limits on the amount of zinc and phosphorous allowed, which sounds bad at first, however....

When you look a little deeper you'll find that these limits are still far above what even many "motorcycle" oils contain - so the argument is a moot point only to be used as "scare tactics".

Spectral analysis has shown the SH and SJ rated Mobil1 15w50 levels of zinc and phosphorous are almost identical.


So to make up for those missing anti-wear ingredients they add Friction Modifiers and these are known to make wet clutches slip.

Direct misinformation again.... Zinc and Phosphorous are not used to directly modify friction - for instance, Zinc is in there to protect when metal to metal contact occurs.

Metal to metal contact should not be happening unless your oil breaks down too easily (which is one of the good properties synthetic has).

Friction modifiers on the other hand are used in lighter weight oils (Mobil1 15w50 does not use friction modifier) to help with fuel economy in particular. You should not use these lighter weight oils in the conventional variety or synthetic variety for a number of reasons, this being one.


Castrol and Mobil are huge automotive oil manufacturers as you know and they have recently entered the US market with their motorcycle specific motor oils.

Could that be because it's a lucritive market? I would do the same if I owned Mobil.... Also take into consideration that Castrol is not an oil manufactuer or refiner. They are an oil marketing company that doesn't "make" oil, they buy it from the lowest bidder.

Let's see... If I were Mobil, I could make a couple small formulation changes (so if someone does a spectral analysis, it won't be exactly the same), put a motorcycle on the label, and charge double.

It's been shown time and time again that people will pay these prices with no real data (other than the marketing speak on the back of the bottle) that the oil is indeed any better..... Sounds like an excellent idea from a marketing standpoint.



what about the other issues like the high anti-wear properties of motorcycle oils or the high flash points because they must work in air-cooled, oil-cooled and water-cooled engines. High flash points mean no oil volatility. What about the polymers used that can withstand the shredding effects of transmission gears so you will hold your viscosity rating. I could go on and on.

All excellent reasons to use a quality FULLY SYNTHETIC oil like Mobil1 15w50. Heck, if "Motorcycle" oils are so much better than the automotive variety at anti-wear, shearing, flash point, and viscosity retention, why aren't they used in automotive racing or by automotive enthusiasts?


The average guy doesn't care and doesn't ride that much. We manufacture high performance specialty lubricants for motorcycles, the average guy is not our customer.

I think the fact that we're all here shows that we are not your "average riders". An average rider typically isn't enough of an enthusiast to bother with sites like these.

Take myself for instance.... My quad basically only gets raced flat track, MX, and cross country. We race in one form or another year round. It's engine has been modified to the point it develops a little over 40% more power than stock... It gets ridden hard enough that it burns out the packing in the Curtis Sparks silencer after every couple flat track races. It endures 2 1/2 hours of cross country abuse per race in the expert classes at the state level. And lastly was purchased in Aug of 99 and has enough hours that it needed a timing chain replacement in just over a year.

This is not the use of an "average user". I've replaced one clutch in this time and that was only after I went to taller gearing for XC to tone down my bottom end power - even then only minor slippage was apparent when shifting. I went to an 8 plate setup using OEM parts and OEM springs with no trouble what-so-ever.... If Mobil1 15w50 can hold up to these abuses and still protect the engine well enough that it can go over a full season between even being re-ring'd, I venture to guess that it's just fine.

Your clutch problems were likely reltated to fatigue related stress fractures. The 400EX clutch basket is known for fatiguing and developing stress cracks around the springs in the back which will eventually lead to failure if not replaced every so often. This is not oil related any more than it is fuel related.

I'll say it once again..... If you want to argue oils, you need to educate yourself more.

[yellowex01]

Phewww...

[Mxbubs]

Ill stick with my non auto oil, you can put whatever you like in your moto scooter.:D

[eldoexrider01]

im stayin wit honda oil, i know the mobil 1 is suposed to be good stuff but i know 100% the honda oil will not mess up my motor, unless i put my oil filter in backwards!!! :D

[Texan32]

hey 86...its only 9:30 in the morning right now. But after reading your last post....i think i need a beer:eek: :D

[tbutler6]

:huh why dont you guys use honda HP4 10w-40(or whatever for your areas) No one has any complaints with problems with HP4, it may be 7 dollars a quart but look at how much you invest in your quads do you really want to gamble with motor or clutch problems by using an oil not meant for a wet clutch. Also think about the **** we put our quads through when we ride. It just doesnt make sense to me because word is going round with mobile one problems.

[yellowex01]

And what kinda of word would that be?

[tbutler6]

cr*p

[Glamis400ex]

Just as a side note...since I'm the one who started this mess:D
Went to Glamis for 5 days and rode the snot outta my 400ex. No problems shifting or slipping what-so-ever. It ran alot cooler also.

You milage may vary....but, it works for me.

Glamis

[DESDAK4]

Alright guys I have no problem believing that Mobil 1 is the stuff to use however, I am confused as to which one to buy. I went to Wally World today to get some because my baby has sat for three months and I need to change the oil. Anyway the bottle over there looked a bit diff. it had the red lid but the red label was smaller and said anti-wear technology on the label is this still the right stuff because I saw a picture of it in another thread.

Texan you should be able to help here since we shop at the same Wal-Mart.

Jay
USAF

[DESDAK4]

Alright guys I have no problem believing that Mobil 1 is the stuff to use however, I am confused as to which one to buy. I went to Wally World today to get some because my baby has sat for three months and I need to change the oil. Anyway the bottle over there looked a bit diff. it had the red lid but the red label was smaller and said anti-wear technology on the label is this still the right stuff because I saw a picture of it in another thread. Also are you guys using the Honda oil filter or another brand.

Texan, you should be able to help here since we shop at the same Wal-Mart.

Jay
USAF

bottles are different all over. on long island alone i have seen 3 different bottles. All that matters is it is red cap mobil 1 15w50 and the back does not say energy conserving on the back.

[99'300EX]

i use gn4 10w 40...i use it all year round...whats the point of switching oils??

[ridefastrgetoff]

Couldn't remember if I had shared this article with you all:

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/amsoil_vs_mobil1.htm


www.mxstates.com

[RideSportrax]

Hey Guys,
Haven't posted here in a while, but I thought I'd add my 2 cents. I have done TONS of research on oils and such, and have found from my findings and personal use that Mobil 1 15w-50 is indeed the oil to use. I have done engine and clutch teardowns and have found out that there is noticible less wear and cooler running temps than Mobil Drive Clean 10w-40 (non-synthetic). About the friction and anti wear modifiers, I run Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 in the winter, and this oil DOES contain friction modifiers. I STILL did not have ANY clutch slippage (and my plates are 1 year old). Overall, I think Mobil 1 makes excellent oils and I will continue to buy and fully support Mobil products.
Happy Riding!

[JabberJaw]

Originally posted by 86atc250r


In my opinion you are basically paying double for the pic of the motorcycle.

Yeah, but is it a really nice motorcycle?

[bandit390]

I got the mobil 1 15/50 with anti wear. Does that matter or not?

[RideSportrax]

Thats the one.

[BKVIEW4U]

heres my experiences so far :

in my 400ex i ran the gn4 honda stuff. after break in i kept a real close eye on the oil . in my opinion there is nothing worse than the gn4 stuff. after abou 18 hours of riding it was like water and it was done.. i do not ride mx or anything just rec riding. but i dont putt around either.

so i was told gn4 was trash . and i was tired of changin my oil every other ride.

so i switched to motul synthetic blend . WOW!!!! this stuff rocks. i have about 35 hours on it and then i change it just because i want to . the oil is still in great shape. and it runs so much cooler than gn4

so my words to everyone. switch to motul 3000 or 5000 .take ur leftover gn4 to the recycler and pour it out .

i am going to try mobil 1 15-50 because its about $1 cheeper a quart than the motul. if it works im stickin with mobil 1 .

but the motul 3000 is not even comparable to gn4 . gn4 is only good for a few hours and its done working.

[Newbie400ex]

Mobil 1 it is.

[TRX_Thumper]

i went to auto zone today to pick up some mobil 1like you guys recomend...and the one that glamis is running says Try synthetic...i could only find full synthetic 15w 50...what difference will this make??

[250rtone]

HOLY ***** !!! All this talk about which oil is best for the 400ex makes me want to keep my R :rolleyes: :o (BY THE WAY, IT'S STILL FOR SALE:D )

Originally posted by TRX_Thumper
i went to auto zone today to pick up some mobil 1like you guys recomend...and the one that glamis is running says Try synthetic...i could only find full synthetic 15w 50...what difference will this make??

They all say different things. The one by me says supersynth in other places it says tri synthetic, othe places says somethin else. Its all the same

[WalshKFX]

is it ok to run regular hona 10w40 for a 300ex or is there a better oil that i could use that would be better for the quad?:confused:

[TRX_Thumper]

lol didnt u read the thread man...thats what theyve been discussin

Originally posted by Crazy300EXMan97
is it ok to run regular hona 10w40 for a 300ex or is there a better oil that i could use that would be better for the quad?:confused:

only 15w50 is ok in wet clutch applications. its the only one withno friction modifiers

[yellowrider]

i have a question...

when i first purchased my 400ex i used the honda gold bottle with red cap without molly in the 400 and then.... after a couple of months i went to buy more oil for my 4 wheeler and they hired new help and he told me that i should be running the black bottle red top and the gold bottle is only for honda motorcycles or something for the gold wing i believe....

but anyhow when i switched over i noticed i been adding a whole lot of oil to my 4 wheeler than normal and tehre is no leak and theere is no oil in my airbox...

do u think i got screwed when i changed oils and it started using oil.... ????

and if i switched to mobile one would it hurt anything ???? make it use more oil? void my warranty ? just wondering ... thanks for the help

[yellowrider]

i have a question...

when i first purchased my 400ex i used the honda gold bottle with red cap without molly in the 400 and then.... after a couple of months i went to buy more oil for my 4 wheeler and they hired new help and he told me that i should be running the black bottle red top and the gold bottle is only for honda motorcycles or something for the gold wing i believe....

but anyhow when i switched over i noticed i been adding a whole lot of oil to my 4 wheeler than normal and tehre is no leak and theere is no oil in my airbox...

do u think i got screwed when i changed oils and it started using oil.... ????

and if i switched to mobile one would it hurt anything ???? make it use more oil? void my warranty ? just wondering ... thanks for the help