So it started... for about 15 seconds (tips?)

[beobe99]

So i was having some issues getting my 7 month project to get spark. Thanks to 312r1 for the coil, and CDI Im now getting spark. And thanks to aceman for the wiring help.

I put the tank back on, rolled it out of the garage, and was ready to hear this be-och start up. I kicked kicked kicked and nothing. double check everything and had the coil off the plug :mad:
Kick it several more times with nothing..

Guy accross the street comes over to see. He then went to his truck and grabbed some starter fluid.. sprayed the remains of an empty can into filter and BOOM! the sh** started up for about 15 seconds and cut off. I then had perma smile that I couldnt shake. BUT then tried again and NOTHING.

My first guess is fuel or air. I doubled checked choke, air screw (set to the manual), I have a fuel filter so can see plenty of fuels at least getting to that point, and now im stumped once again. About 3 months ago I had the carb apart and cleaned it (hasnt had gas in it till about a month ago if gas is in there at all)

Tommorow Im going to buy some starter fluid and spray and spray in hopes that the fuel will grab and run the right way.

-Would this be the wrong way to go about it?
-Any tips?
-What are you guys setting your air screws at?
-What position should I have my IDLE screw at?


current mod list just in case

-36mm Mikuni Carb
-K&N Filter / outer wear / no air box lid
-ESR TRX6 Pipe / Silencer
-Reed spacer
-boyseen TQ. reeds

[my88r]

I'm guessing you just put the reeds in. so those are fine. what pilot do you have. idle screw is usually 1 1/2 turns..... i believe

[312R1]

Hey bro...You have any plans this weekend..Your more then welcome to bring it to my house and I will get it running for ya.


Let me know,
Steve

[regg187]

Do you think you were running just on ether when it started or do you think that it ran on gas for a bit? Do you see fuel flowing through the filter when you open up the pet cock? It's possible that your float has stuck shut being dry for so long. Once you had it started even if your jetting was off by a fair amount it wouldn't just die and not restart. next time you try to start it instead of the the Ether try putting a few drops down the spark hole then try to fire it. ether will always start it. but you'll know if it is running on gas too if it starts with a few drops in the plug hole

[wilkin250r]

You shouldn't need a whole lot of starter fluid, like a 1sec burst into your intake.

I find that if a bike sits for a while, and is very difficult to start, I fire it up on starter fluid 3 or 4 times. Each time, it runs for a few seconds, then dies. But the 3rd or 4th time, it stays running on it's own.

Don't worry about destroying your motor, you won't be running on the ether long enough to build any heat in the bearings.

[JohnBeton]

Starter fluid is not that good for your engine, i'd keep my hands of it. If the setup is right it should start without.

I'd try tapping the carburator with a plastic screw diver to make sure the floater isn't stuck.

I'd also take the sparkplug out, kick it about 20 to 30 times to clean the engine and then put the sparkplug back in and try firing it up. Maybe you can put a new spark plug in to try.

[86 Quad R]

loosen the drain for the carb to make sure that its filling with fuel. if not then find out why. afterwards, with the choke on and the swith off, do a few dry kicks and then turn the switch on. then try starting it.

remember that the R engine needs to turn atleast 6-700 revs to spark.

[beobe99]

So went out and got some starter fluid, and electrical cleaner.

cleaned all connections, double checked them (thinking maybe im getting an inconsistant/weak spark) I then put everything back together, fuel on, choke up, a 1 second spray of starter fluid, and kicked it over.... nothing... repeated and nothing..

(at this point the local kids are getting off the bus so I now have spectators

:mad: I tell them its not going to start after being asked "why isnt it starting" 300 times.)

-Taped the carb with the screw driver, tried again. nothing.
-took off drain plug and there was plenty of fuel in there (I left the gas on like an idiot but quickly turned it off)
-Pulled the bowl off to take a look at the float and its moving very freely.

-I took the plug out and it had like a white'ish clear film on it. Im guessing from the ether / starter fluid?

-Cleaned the plug, tried again, nothing..

My next step is to pull carb off completely and go threw it.

My88r -the reeds I have are used and came with the engine I bought. I did check them before re-installing. they seemed to be seating nicly with no cracks or anything like that. I will double check.

Steve (312r1) -I would love to bring the bike to you but I dont have a truck. If it comes down to it I'll find one or rent one. I REALLY appreciate the offer man!!!

A couple more Qs.

-Could there be anything stopping this from starting within the engine itself? if so what?

-Can someone describe what there spark looks like (i have plug out holding it to head or head stud and getting thin lighting bolt looking sparks maybe 2 hairs thick.) The manual says a fat blue spark?

Thanks again guys. I appreciate the hell out of everyones help!!

Bob

[JohnBeton]

can you take a picture of your spark plug ?
If it's got spark it should start. Maybe your mixture is to lean, i don't know.

PS: can you try pullstarting it ?

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by JohnBeton
PS: can you try pullstarting it ?

DEFFINATELY dont do that. :ermm: i've had several bikes in my shop from guys doing this.


did ya try several dead(switch off) kicks with the choke on(throttle closed and dont crack it) before you turned the ignition on? if it still doesnt start i would check the pilot jet for clogging. if all else fells you may wanna do an ohm check on the stator, coil and pickup. make sure that the fly wheel and stator is dirt/rust free.

timeing $13.00 stater pin thats why it started an shut off that happin to me

pull starting things is a good way to make somthing never run rihgt again

[beobe99]

Wheres the pull starter located? KIDDING!!.. Id rather not pop start the new engine I just built to get it started.. Ive thought about it though trust me. Back in the day My friends and me would spend hours trying to pop start a bike to go for a ride hehe! when alls beat arse bike needed was a rebuild.

250rASM - I dont know what/where the stator pin is.. could you explain further what and where it is?


86quadr - I'll try the dead kicks and check the pilot tomorow when i pull the carb. My buddy has a ohm tester and was over about 2 weeks ago which lead to me replacing the coil, and CDI. I was getting power from the stator but did'nt think to ask him how much power (he's not into the quad thing at all.. hes all cars)

Any descriptions on what the spark should look like? I know its hard to discribe a spark without just saying its sparky looking haha! Im getting a fairly thin spark which only raised concern with me from reading the manual that says "fat blue spark"

Thanks again guys, and like i mentioned I really appreciate the help and tips!!!!!

[regg187]

Well fat blue is a good description , but it can be hard to see some times.

If you can pull the plug ,recruit an extra body. shut off the lights in the garage at night have the other person kick it over while you hold the plug to the head. so you have a good view of the electrodes. Fat blue=good, thin yellow=bad nothing=very bad.

it can be a pain holding the plug to the head and kicking and trying to see the spark. You can buy a cheap spark tester they are very easy to see in the day time in the shade. good luck.

but you said clear fiilm on plug, doubt its ether, that stuff evaps so fast, and really no way to get liqiud ether into the cylinder by spraying the filter

possibly water and there'n might be your problem

good luck

[norcalduner]

I think what 250r asm means is that you might have a broken flywheel woodruff key causing your ignition timing to be off.

[norcalduner]

Originally posted by 86 Quad R
DEFFINATELY dont do that. :ermm: i've had several bikes in my shop from guys doing this.

How can this procedure damge your engine ? Please explain :confused:

[JohnBeton]

Actually, I was wondering to ...

[86 Quad R]

simple really........... in the event that he's not getting any fuel to the engine. pull starting will only cause premature wear/damage to the cylinder ect ect. and thats not i risk/gamble worth taking. if it were a 4 poke, it would be different.

IMO the sensable thing to do at this point is to pinpoint "why" its not starting rather than just "pull" starting it and hoping it will fire off. ;)

[JohnBeton]

ok, I understand, but it's not different from constantly kicking the bike over ;).

I'm with you if you say the problem needs to be solved, pull starting is not a permanent option.

[kiesta00]

Well if you're pulling the bike at 10mph in 1st gear thats spinning the motor waay faster and longer than you could ever kick that thing over, and if you're not getting any fuel/oil in the crankcase, you're not lubricating the piston and cylinder, which is bad for a 2 stroke.


Try checking your electrical connections; make sure your kill switch isn't faulty, check the connection with a multimeter. It should have OverLimit (infinite resistance) when the switch is open, and 0 ohms when you press the killswitch. Try tapping your coil, my buddy's banshee wouldn't start b/c his coil was faulty, we knocked it with a hammer a couple of times and it fired right up.

You can also put some gas on a rag and cover the intake with it, it should pop right off, it sounds like an ignition problem to me if the ether doesn't start it at all.

[beobe99]

still nothing.. im getting spark (maybe not when the plugs in cylinder considering its a bit harder to kick over). And Fuel is getting into the cylinder.

Maybe im not getting enough air? how can I check?

Also besides that pin that was mentioned is there a way to check my timing? when I assembled the engine itself is there a way that I could of put something in wrong?

Remember this thing did start (for about 15 seconds) and now nothing..

:tired:

[kiesta00]

might sound stupid but have you tried a new plug??

[wilkin250r]

Very very odd. I would start checking the really odd things.

Pull the flywheel off, make sure the woodruff-key is in place. This sets your ignition timing.

Try a new plug.

Pull the filter completely off.


If it has spark (at the correct time), and compression, the starting fluid should have fired it!

[beobe99]

Dont worry nothing sounds stupid to try at this point. I actually did try a new plug because when I was checking spark again today I wasnt getting any.. put the new plug in and was getting it again. Some way some how it seems the first plug fouled out (although it looks clean as new but was wet with fuel.)

which brings up another qs. that I think I allready know the answer to. I figure to much fuel would drowned out the spark if there wasnt enough air?

reguardless I'll be taking apart the carb to check everything over anyway once again.


and also thanks for taking on these qs. guys. Im sure it can be annoying with me asking over and over.

Thanks

[beobe99]

Originally posted by wilkin250r
Very very odd. I would start checking the really odd things.

Pull the flywheel off, make sure the woodruff-key is in place. This sets your ignition timing.

Try a new plug.

Pull the filter completely off.


If it has spark (at the correct time), and compression, the starting fluid should have fired it!

good stuff. Ill be doing that tomorow..

Thanks

[chris46250r]

Heres a few more ideas. Unscrew the sparkplug boot from the wire and clip off about a 1/4 inch and screw the boot back on. May be getting a bad connection there. And not many people will admit doing this but I have, is there still a rag stuffed down in the boot between the carb and air filter? I have done this more than once.:D Everybody has listed some good ideas so maybe start checking the stupid stuff. Was the gas fresh, loosen the gas cap to make sure its venting, check or unhook the kill switch or hell even try the coil and CDI that you thought was bad. Good luck and when you do figure it out it will be something you've checked 10 times or something so stupid you'll want to start riding the short bus to town.

[EXtreme-]

Where did your "perma smile" go? :( Back to the drawing board....

15 seconds is a loooong time if you think about it. Even though it was shot with ether, you had good timing, spark and some type of fuel supply in order to make it run...whether ether, gas or a combo of each, at the time. There HAD to be air also.

Fire consists of three (3) basic components. Any one of which, when removed, will end the fire’s activity. This fire triangle consists of: Oxygen – Fuel – Heat. (air, gas and spark) Sounds like you have the spark but do you really have the correct air/fuel supply???

After reading this thread twice, I see you're using a Mikuni carb. This is pretty odd compared to the popularity of the keihen's that 99% of everyone uses, even with various millimeter sizes. Your motor may NOT like that carb at all??? Only mikuni users will be able to help you with jetting specs. Keihen users like myself couldn't begin to help you with jetting...we're flying blind. The jets are apples to oranges.

Spark: These older ignitions often desire a plug gap of .018 I've learned this trick here, by some smart mechanics....and it works. Try it....you have nothing to loose at this point. Are you using a BR8ES or BR9ES? (doens't matter which at this point, as long as its one of these)

How about the slide inside the carb....could it have been put in backwards with the cut-away facing the motor instead of the intake? (saw this on a banshee with mikuni's)

I know some of these ideas aren't profound, but we're back to the dumb stuff.

Do you have a stock carb to try? I just don't have any faith in the mikuni, due to ignorance. On the other hand, you'd think it would at least fire up and run like crap. I guess my point is...if you had a history proven carb with proven jetting, it would eliminate the air/fuel doubts.

[beobe99]

well yesterday and today wern't the best days to try and figure this out so it will be tomorow (supposed to be like 56 degrees) today rain and 40 so you know. Im in a garage but if it starts I need to push it out.

believe it or not I love the "check the dumb things" ideas because they usualy work.

I did check the vent hose. I blew into it and was getting nothing out there other side (its a vent hose with a filter) So I pulled that off.. I learned all about that working at a dealer (I was in Sales but only got along with the techs) regaurdless I am getting fuel into the carb.

The .018 gap will def. be tried tomorow. I did a search for the woodruff key and seen that idea requested many times.

there SHOULDNT be a rag in the carb still although at this point I wouldnt be surprized if half my tools are sitting in it.

When I have the carb apart Ill check the slides positioning. Im pretty sure theres a slot that makes it fail safe though. I only went with the 36mm mikuni from seeing ESR uses them with the trx6 pipe (figured Id follow there footsteps) (I bought the carb used) and yes its a real pain in the a** that the jetting is labeled differently But I did get some good advise on jetting from ESR and others on this forum. If I had stock carb it would deff be on at this point!

When I bought another coil and tested for spark I wasnt getting any still. I got the CDI and still nothing. So i did unscrew the boot from the coil, cut it, and put it back on and now had spark. This is def good advise although my prob digs deeper. 2 days ago when playing with it though I noticed if I bend the coil in certian directions the spark would go away. So Ill be triple checking that.


I once again appreciate ALL the advise, tips, and help. once this thing starts you will all know what it was or what the combo was to fix it (even if it takes months hehe!) which it shouldnt.. Im feeling good about this weekend. I think it will start with what I have to go by now.

Or you guys will have the chance to buy this wonderfull thing haha!

[312R1]

If you can't get it going this weekend try to find away up here and I will help you fix it...Hell if we have to, I could take a few parts from my R to see what the issue is. Mine fires on the first kick every time.

BTW..Have you gone through the wires in the harness itself..maybe there is a wire the in broken or shorting out.

-Steve

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by beobe99
and yes its a real pain in the a** that the jetting is labeled differently But I did get some good advise on jetting from ESR and others on this forum.

Regardless of the jetting, it should fire on the starting fluid. If it doesn't, you have a compression, spark, or timing issue.

Once we get it to fire and run, then we can fix jetting issues.



Have you done a leak-down test on this motor?

[regg187]

When I bought another coil and tested for spark I wasnt getting any still. I got the CDI and still nothing. So i did unscrew the boot from the coil, cut it, and put it back on and now had spark. This is def good advise although my prob digs deeper. 2 days ago when playing with it though I noticed if I bend the coil in certian directions the spark would go away. So Ill be triple checking that.:) :) :) :) :)


If you have spark and then bend the coil l(lead I'll assume for this tip) and it goes away.
The lead could be broken inside and bending moves it apart more, or the leads that power the coil could be worn through somewhere and ground out when you move the coil. Just out of curiosity have you ohmed all the Ign parts against the spec.

One more thing if its just a weak IGN, try a ngk iridium plug=Irx= and gap it at about .016-.017 and see if that helps, I know the plug is expensive but it requires a lot less voltage to spark and that might just "cure ' your problem.

[novaracr70]

ok well i have read this whole thread . make sure your coil is grounded to the frame well and make sure your motor is grounded to frame allso. you might have spark . but under compreshion none. gap at 18, allso pull the carb clean the pilot and main make sure you can c threw them. allso do a copreshion check.

[beobe99]

Originally posted by 250r asm
timeing $13.00 stater pin thats why it started an shut off that happin to me

OK, so went out today like I said and first things first I checked the spark again. My one plug is dead (im guessing the ether?) I tried the other and it has spark. I then gapped it to the .018 like mentioned, installed it, and kicked.. nothing!

Onto the next step and why im quoting the above. I took off the stator cover to check things out. The flywheel bolt was complete LOOSE. I unscrewed it with my fingers, took it off, and pulled off the flywheel. Now Im looking for a key. I have no idea what the little fker looks like so I grab the manual.

(((I did the bottom end myself but had an issue with the kicker shaft twitching when I did rotations with the flywheel to check piston clearance. so I gave the rest to my buddy who completed it. He installed the flywheel so Im not taking blame for the loose nut hehe!.. But I will take blame for not checking it!)))

I check the manual resorting to actualy having to read. I see the woodruff key mentioned and go the the picture mentioned. (the "key" is allready installed in the pic so to me it just looks like a notch on the output shaft)

I check the output shaft and see that that part is flush. I then look at the flywheel and realize that the key has broken in half with part of it in the flywheel groove, and the other in the output shaft groove.

So there haha! Im hoping this is the issue. Now for acouple more Qs.

1. Anyone have an extra woodruff key? how much shipped to 19020.

2. I bought electrical parts cleaner. is it cool to spray down the stator? (there was some dust / dirt on it) (all the stators wires are solid and good!)

THANK YOU VERY MUCH guys. Im hoping this turns out to be what the issue was!!

[312R1]

Glad to hear it...I put money on it thats the issue. You might be able to find the key at a hardware store..or just go to your dealer and buy one, there really cheap.



-Steve

[beobe99]

Called the dealer (thank god my buddy was working because from working at a dealer what happens alot is you ask for a part, they think standing there and say nahh we dont have that)

I took the part # to him and made him look it up... they had 2. (freebee!!).. my buddy you know hehe! So now im going out there and installing this ish. I'll keep yous posted..

Bob

Thanks steve.

[EXtreme-]

We have a WINNER!!!

Excellent thread to learn something. Sure beats "who's quad is faster" Funnny how that rotor made any spark at all. Hmmmmmm.

[312R1]

Originally posted by beobe99
Called the dealer (thank god my buddy was working because from working at a dealer what happens alot is you ask for a part, they think standing there and say nahh we dont have that)

I took the part # to him and made him look it up... they had 2. (freebee!!).. my buddy you know hehe! So now im going out there and installing this ish. I'll keep yous posted..

Bob

Thanks steve.


Thats awesome bro..Yeah alot of times the dealer have these little parts in stock..;)

[beobe99]

It started RIGHT UP!!!

:D

Went out there and sprayed the flywheel down to get rid of any dirt or remains of the old broken woodruff key. Did the same with the output shaft (crank arm that the stator / flywheel goes on)(did this with electrical cleaner.)

With the choke on when it started it was idling at a very nice rpm (usualy its a higher rev from my past bikes). I messed with the idle and it stayed the same no matter what so Ill be looking into that. It was cutting off after a bit with choke on so I put the choke down and started it that way and it was fine.

I started it and shut it off about 4-5 times by now.

-I DID get a kick back twice when kicking it over? is this anything? I know it happens and actualy have a friend that threw his knee out because of it hehe! (not funny, but it is)

-A fair amount of smoke from all seams on the pipe. I even had smoke coming from the rivits ha!. Anyone have some exhuast springs? mine are stretched out. I'll be checking the antifreeze levels tonight for safty in reference to the smoke. there was like I mentioned a fair amount of smoke but yeah its 2-stroke, new build, and used pipe so we'll see. Maybe I'll re-pack the pipe. Its rivited but I got a rivit gun I've been trying to make an excuse to use.

-The Plug. I pushed the bike back into the garage and smiled. I figured Id pull the plug and take a look see. It was clean.. really clean. But it did have like a drip of fuel on it? I figure maybe its running really rich down low hence the smoke but because I wasnt reving on it big time (just little taps of the gas) it didnt build up a color?

I REALLY wanted to thank everyone for there help and advice. And also want to thank everyone for there future advice. When I first posted this thread I was figuring Id get a bunch of sh**'s posting "do a search, or look at the manual" But I actualy got REAL help..

Thanks again guys!!

[beobe99]

O yeah any advice on how to double check or how to get this flywheel bolt TIGHT without the flywheel tool?

Or does anyone have a flywheel tool for sale?

Thanks

[my88r]

Originally posted by beobe99
It started RIGHT UP!!!



GLAD TO HEAR IT!!! always a good feeling when the bikes are running good.:macho

[norcalduner]

Originally posted by beobe99
O yeah any advice on how to double check or how to get this flywheel bolt TIGHT without the flywheel tool?

Glad to hear its fixed:macho You can try using the penny between the counterbalancer gear and countershaft gear as explained in the manual using a torque wrench.

[Aceman]

Originally posted by beobe99
O yeah any advice on how to double check or how to get this flywheel bolt TIGHT without the flywheel tool?

Impact wrench, just be careful you don't over do it. Also works great for the clutch.

Now that you finally got this thing running, are you still selling it?:devil:

[beobe99]

well its still not 100% done. My plan tonight was (yeah sat. night hehe!) to go fully mount the tank, bleed the brakes, lock tight mostly everything, get the plastics on, and look at it for about an hour. Also was going to take pics and make a thread on the whole process.

tanks on, lock tighting is done, but had issues with the brake bleeding. The rears done but the front's didnt want to take. I pump them 100 times, hold lever in, un-screw bleeder, wait for money shot, shut bleeder, fill if needed, and repeat but still was ending up with a loose lever. any advise? the one bleeder wasnt opening so I just used the one side (they are connected).

The smoke I was getting is also spattering a bit of oil out which is buggin me. I def. need some new exhuast springs.

I REALLY dont want to sell it. If I do youll be seeing my new build soon after. Im in sales so money is up and down. Im good for now though and also feel I NEED to have a project at all times

:devil:

Once agian thanks guy for getting me this far. Anyone have any advise or coments on the small issues im having that I posted in my "it started" responce?

Thanks.. Pics will be up soon in another thread.

[regg187]

good going there. Definetly use the impact wrench.:) :) :) :)

[Jer250R]

glad it started, i've been watching this thread for a while since you were having similar problems to what i was having before. the people on here are really helpful especially compared to some other forums i go to for other vehicles.

as for the brake bleeding, yeah it is all connected, but you will have more luck if you can open up the other bleeder. also you may want to check if there are any cracks or leaks in the system. if all else fails go back at it tomorrow and try again, waiting a while will let the air form into bubbles if it looks foamy when coming out. just to double check you are 1)open bleeder 2)pull lever 3) close bleeder 4) release lever ?

i just bled my buddies 400ex tonight and it went from the lever pulling all the way to the grip to 1 finger lock-up.

[beobe99]

when bleeding the line do you guys leave the res. cap off but of course make sure it alwasy stays full?

Jer250r - I was pulling lever (to build pressure), holding the lever in I would release bleeder, close bleeder, and repeat (makeing sure the res stayed full.

what other forums you check out by the way? for what vehicals?

I put the R fully together tonight (besides front wheels for bleeding purpose) and im not diggin the plastics I have.. so Ill be looking to trade or sell them if anyones interested. Heres a pic before the engine went back in.

[my88r]

take the res cap off tonight and let it sit till morning.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by beobe99
O yeah any advice on how to double check or how to get this flywheel bolt TIGHT without the flywheel tool?
Here's a tip I used to use on flywheels and such when you don't have a proper holder.

Go buy a 1/4 inch cotton rope. It has to be brand new, and it has to be 100% cotton.

Take off the sparkplug, and feed several feet of the cotton rope through into the cylinder. Turn the crank until the piston stops against the rope, it won't allow it to turn over completely. This will allow you to tighten the flywheel nut.

You want the rope to be brand new, so it's clean. And you want it to be 100% cotton, because it's organic and will burn off if you get small shavings inside. Nylon can melt, and even a small bit can gum things up if it's burnt to your cylinder wall.

Make sure the piston is covering the ports when you feed the rope in, you don't want to pinch it in one of the ports, it might cut it off. Then you have a huge chunk of rope in your cylinder, not good.

When you're done, just pull the rope back out.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by beobe99
when bleeding the line do you guys leave the res. cap off but of course make sure it alwasy stays full?

Jer250r - I was pulling lever (to build pressure), holding the lever in I would release bleeder, close bleeder, and repeat (makeing sure the res stayed full.

what other forums you check out by the way? for what vehicals?

I put the R fully together tonight (besides front wheels for bleeding purpose) and im not diggin the plastics I have.. so Ill be looking to trade or sell them if anyones interested. Heres a pic before the engine went back in.

Yes, when bleeding brakes....keep the reservoir full with fluid, think it's dot 4. They also sell those vacuum brake bleeders that make it a breeze. ;)

IMO those plastics and graphics would look nice if the frame was red. Just my opinion. I do not know if you had it coated or bought it like that.

I agree...good info on this thread.

[CorvetteZ06]

great to hear its running great!!

[86 Quad R]

i know how frustrating it can be when faced with such dilemma's but ya never gave up lol glad you got ur done.

as for the brake bleeding..... i use a "reverse" method. it involves using a nipple and hose placed on the bottle of brake fluid.

the process takes 10 minutes. with both bleeders open, place the hose on one and turn the bottle up side down, squeezing it until fluid expels from the other and then close it off. then open the line at the master cylinder and repeat the process until fluid is present there. close off the banjo and close off the bleeder that has the hose attached.

bleed the system as normal, if necessary.

[danhung11]

Originally posted by 86 Quad R
i know how frustrating it can be when faced with such dilemma's but ya never gave up lol glad you got ur done.

as for the brake bleeding..... i use a "reverse" method. it involves using a nipple and hose placed on the bottle of brake fluid.

the process takes 10 minutes. with both bleeders open, place the hose on one and turn the bottle up side down, squeezing it until fluid expels from the other and then close it off. then open the line at the master cylinder and repeat the process until fluid is present there. close off the banjo and close off the bleeder that has the hose attached.

bleed the system as normal, if necessary.

Good info... so do you remove the bleeder valve completely and stick the nipple into the caliper itself?:ermm:

thanks...
dan

[Jer250R]

Originally posted by beobe99
Jer250r - I was pulling lever (to build pressure), holding the lever in I would release bleeder, close bleeder, and repeat (makeing sure the res stayed full.

actually you should open the bleeder first then pull the lever, then close, then release the lever.

but as mentioned, let it sit for a couple days and try it again. i'm not sure i'd leave the master cylinder cover off as moisture will get into the system and deteriorate the fluid, whixh is why you always should use fluid from a new bottle.

i'm on forums for many toys :) 66 lincoln, 49 ford pickup, '03 infiniti g35, 01 audi a6, and this one

[beobe99]

Nice I always like to see that R's or quads in genral arnt the only toys messed with on here.. I think i actualy remember commenting on your G35 in another thread.


Aceman - very creative idea with the bleeding. I didnt get to it today but should be able tomorow.

Thanks

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by danhung11
Good info... so do you remove the bleeder valve completely and stick the nipple into the caliper itself?:ermm:

thanks...
dan

actually no. what ya do is place the hose on the nipple, then the bleeder and crack the bleeder/s. ya turn the bottle of brake fluid upside down and squeeze. this will force fluid from one side to the next.

ideally, this works best if ya have two people but, can easily be done with one. just takes a more coordinated effort lmao