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mbx5
12-28-2007, 06:46 PM
Sorry for this up-coming stupid question - I am a noob... I am rebuilding my 400ex that I purchased as a complete basket case... I just got some Works triple-rate shocks w/ res... I installed them and noticed it has a lot of "squat" in the front end... Is this the way they are supposed to be and is this a good thing, or should I adjust them so that the springs are pre-loaded more to lift up the front end?

Also - and dont flame me on this one - do I need to grease the upper and lower eyelet bushings on the shocks?


Here is a pic of the "squat" - a-arms are almost straight across with just the weight of the bike on them - it sags about 2" or so...


http://www.industrialrobotix.com/DSC04476.jpg

Brauap
12-28-2007, 06:52 PM
When you bought them, are they ment your your A-Arm length? Your weight? I also don't understand what you mean by squat. Could you explain this to me please?

PS I am a noob too..:ermm:

mbx5
12-28-2007, 06:53 PM
when the weight of the bike is on them, no rider, it sags down to the level shown in the pic...with stock shocks it sat about 2" higher....the works shocks I put on are the same length as stock - just over 16".

12-28-2007, 06:55 PM
thats like TT racing shock setup. Either that or you have long travel a-arms and standard travel shocks

F-16Guy
12-28-2007, 07:31 PM
It looks like the preload is all the way soft. Depending on the style of shock body (I can't tell by the photo), you'll either need to turn the adjustment nut at the top if it's threaded, or you'll need to compress the top fitting and move the wire clip down a few grooves if the bodies have grooves instead of threads. When you ride it you should be able to tell if the spring rate and valving are close. If the ride is overly bouncy, the damping may be too soft. Once the preload is set correctly, if the shocks really squat when you sit on it, or if it bottoms really easily, the springs may be too soft. Either way, you can send them in with your weight, riding style, and brand and width of a-arms and they will revalve and/or respring them so that they work well. If you end up having to go that route, I would send them to Derisi Racing to get their Millenium revalve for Works shocks. It converts them to deflective shim valving with new, high flow pistons. It is supposed to make a world of difference versus the stock Works piston.

mbx5
12-28-2007, 07:38 PM
Awesome - thanks for the info. I got them on ebay....the description said they were revalved by Derisi...however I am not sure what the spring rate is... Hopefully I can just make them work by adjusting them w/ the clips...

Thanks again!!

F-16Guy
12-28-2007, 07:43 PM
Sounds like a score!!

Barrymaxx
12-28-2007, 08:06 PM
yeah, it looks like your preload is all the way down.
adjust it and you will be good to go.

Honda#4
12-29-2007, 08:20 AM
IDK if its the pic but them shocks look pretty small for that front end, I thought Roll arms need 19.25" shocks cuz there long travel.Looks like you have 17" shocks.

BigFish
12-29-2007, 08:57 AM
Those are long travel a-arms:ermm:

F-16Guy
12-29-2007, 10:22 AM
I'm pretty sure some of their older arms were available in standard travel. Are those +1 or +2?

TheNewn
12-29-2007, 12:23 PM
yeah, without being there and just eyeballing the picture, it looks like those Roll Design arms are long travel, 19" shocks are probably needed.

And standard travel is 17" approx. Did you buy long travel works? Did you know there's a difference between long travel and standard travel when you bought them?

As for the bushings on the top/bottom of the shock. Yeah put a thin layer of grease around them when you put them in, why wouldn't you?

mbx5
12-29-2007, 01:42 PM
when i bought the arms, they are +1 +1... i dont know any more than that about them....

sounds like i screwed up, eh?

TheNewn
12-29-2007, 01:57 PM
Oh nevermind, if they're only +1's on the width they are almost for sure not long travel. Like others have said, adjust the preload.

priebo15
12-29-2007, 06:34 PM
Originally posted by BigFish
Those are long travel a-arms:ermm:

400exMO
12-30-2007, 05:10 PM
Originally posted by TheNewn
Oh nevermind, if they're only +1's on the width they are almost for sure not long travel. Like others have said, adjust the preload.
the width has nothing to do with them being long travel or standard.
I believe you bought a shock thats incorrect for those aarms. You need a longer shock.

flauge
12-30-2007, 07:27 PM
You should definitly try adjusting your preload, it wont take but a minute.. It looks like the clips are at the very top notch on the shock body in the picture..
I think I remember those shocks on ebay, I was thinking about buying them before I got my 450r fronts. :cool:

mbx5
12-30-2007, 09:58 PM
thanks for all the suggestions....i finally have some time to mess with it tomorrow and will adjust the preload - any suggestions on how the heck to compress the springs and move the clip at the same time? a buddy of mine says stand on the front end while someone zip-ties the springs in place (heavy duty kind w/ metal inserts) then when you take your weight off the springs stay compressed...dunno - never tried it..

i did talk to the guy who sold me the a-arms - says they are not long travel so i am betting the preload fix might work..

thanks again for the help and advice - and for not flaming some dumb questions from this noob...:D

F-16Guy
12-30-2007, 10:31 PM
The zip tie thing is a good idea. maybe even a couple of cycle straps if the ties won't hold. Get the preload set and you should have a nice front end.

TheNewn
12-31-2007, 01:28 AM
Originally posted by 400exMO
the width has nothing to do with them being long travel or standard.
I believe you bought a shock thats incorrect for those aarms. You need a longer shock.

When is the last time you saw a pair of A-arms that were +1 and long travel? I've personally never run across a pair. The overlapping between long and standard doesn't happen till +2 from what i've seen. That is why i said they are almost for sure not long travel. Which they weren't.

And that zip tie thing is a good idea, ill try it myself...

12-31-2007, 11:37 AM
Originally posted by TheNewn
When is the last time you saw a pair of A-arms that were +1 and long travel? I've personally never run across a pair. The overlapping between long and standard doesn't happen till +2 from what i've seen. That is why i said they are almost for sure not long travel. Which they weren't.

And that zip tie thing is a good idea, ill try it myself...
Right here are +1 long travel

http://www.houser-racing.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=4560000-1108502996

TheNewn
12-31-2007, 12:27 PM
Thanks for showing me, i might actually consider those.

flauge
12-31-2007, 08:23 PM
Originally posted by mbx5
thanks for all the suggestions....i finally have some time to mess with it tomorrow and will adjust the preload - any suggestions on how the heck to compress the springs and move the clip at the same time? a buddy of mine says stand on the front end while someone zip-ties the springs in place (heavy duty kind w/ metal inserts) then when you take your weight off the springs stay compressed...dunno - never tried it..

i did talk to the guy who sold me the a-arms - says they are not long travel so i am betting the preload fix might work..

thanks again for the help and advice - and for not flaming some dumb questions from this noob...:D
If they're anything like mine you wont need to compress them b/c with the clip being that high there wont even be any pressure on em. Try lifting up the front so you could let the shocks extend a bit and see what happens.

wifehatesit
01-01-2008, 07:11 AM
those arent long travel aarms. u can tell by the angle of the shock. regular length aarms have the shocks more upright, like yours. long travels are more at 45 degrees, and the shocks bolt on much much closer to the ball joint (outside part of the a arm)
if u have 17" shocks on there u are ok. u just need to adjust preload.