Share Your Secrets! -- Share Your Knowege!

[Brauap]

I know everyone have a little secret to make your bike go faster, run better, or make things last longer, where do buy things for a good deal, and how to get the most out of your machine!

This thread is here for you to share you sucsess with us. To share your knowege. Make us smarter. Help us with our problems. Help us understand. Help us come up with new ideas. Help us make the most power as possible. Help us get the most out of out machines. Help us, make our quads more relible, sturdy, stronger, cooler, faster, and make them "custom"!

So share your knowege, and trust me, it will be appreciated!

[procircuit406ex]

I put black electricial tape on my axle, aarms, levers, and grabbar. It covers up the scratches and stuff on them, and my gloves grip my levers better.

[trx400EXtreme]

wont make you faster... but it will really mess with the people behind you. put some tape on your rear axle so that when you go it spirals.:devil:

take the choke plate out that will make you faster.

[Brauap]

Originally posted by FoxHondaRider
take the choke plate out that will make you faster.

I like the tape ones! I am going to to the axel 1. And with this one.. How do you remove it? I won't be able to choke it anymore, right? How does it go faster?

Thanks, and keep the info comming!

you just need to install a bigger pilot jet and if you need to start it where you would normally use the choke you just pump the throttle a few times and start it right up. Heres the link to the step by step instructions. Mine had it done when I bought it and I had no clue I figured the yellow lever must have broken off or something. Then when I would drag other 400exs we would wonder how it kept up so well with piped 400's. We figured it must have had engine work done but nope just the choke removed. I got a pretty nice gain from it. Its not like a difference like a new airfilter or pipe but there is a small gain thats worth it.


http://www.atvriders.com/articles/choke400ex.html

[underpowered]

all kinds of little tricks on teh good ol 4 hunny.

remove the choke
take off the air box lid and the snorkle, replace snorkle with a paint can lid

don't run a base gasket and only run 1 layer of a 3 layer metal head gasket for a little higher compression ratio.

CRF cam chain

i have more, but i prefer to keep them to myself. can't be givin away all my secrets now can i.

and for parts, i always beleive in supporting the local guy. sure, you can get a better deal on line, but you gotta keep the local guy in business also. i do 99% of my parts buying at a small, non dealer shop.

Holeshot motorsports is where i get all my parts, great guys to deal with and it is a personaly interaction. not some e-mail over teh web to buy parts.

i know a secret in NASCAR racing on how to add a quick 10HP. Its illegal but almost every race team does it but this is off topic. I say just remove the choke and i would be a little weary on running 1 base gasket.

[nick249420]

lose weight :eek2: :D

[416exfreak]

Take your airbox off, and disconnect the carb from the black plastic intake boot thats on the head.

Take that little boot off and port it out some. Just be sure that when you put it back on, you have EVERYTHING out of it. Not even one little speck of dust.

Cut your front fenders and cut some of your rear fenders.

Install a pink and black powerband. Those things are NASTY!:devil: :blah:

[michaelj]

get a stroker crank

Originally posted by 416exfreak
Take your airbox off, and disconnect the carb from the black plastic intake boot thats on the head.

Take that little boot off and port it out some. Just be sure that when you put it back on, you have EVERYTHING out of it. Not even one little speck of dust.

Cut your front fenders and cut some of your rear fenders.

Install a pink and black powerband. Those things are NASTY!:devil: :blah:

wouldnt that require you to rejet the carb because of the little extra air flow from removing some of the material on black piece going to your motor

[jesseweaver]

Originally posted by trx400EXtreme
wont make you faster... but it will really mess with the people behind you. put some tape on your rear axle so that when you go it spirals.:devil:

ha great idea. im gonna go do it right now.

[416exfreak]

Originally posted by FoxHondaRider
wouldnt that require you to rejet the carb because of the little extra air flow from removing some of the material on black piece going to your motor

Not necesarilly. Its not actually putting more air in the carb, it's just allowing it to enter faster.

You may have to richen it up just a hair. I dont see it being a huge change.

[XXXRACER165]

These have helped me a few times. They don't make you go faster but they save you in a pinch. Always carry some different size Tie wraps to secure things if they break. A few little and medium size ones & at least 6 large ones to support big things. Also a great add-on to your quad is a in line fuel filter. I put some old aviation fuel in my tank one time and the carb plugged up after 1 ride, there was dirt in the carb and we had to tow the machine back to the truck. Ended my day of riding. Just a few tips I thought would help.

[tanner 222]

make a crf 450 hybrid or just buy a whole bunch of aftermarket things for your motor to make er faster. thats the simplest and easiest secret i use :o.

[j450rking]

ok you can do the choke thing

get a uni air filter.

and cut some holes in your airbox lid.

get a used slip on off ebay or off here.

and some air scoops will help keep your ex cool and look great!

and with the air filter choke mod and slip on you will have to jump to up to a larger main and pilot. i would say a 40 pilot and start with a 160 main and see were it is. here is a how to jetting thing. and eather get your jets from a local shop,a dealer or jetsrus.com.

PLUG CHECK & READING SPARK PLUGS
The first step is to replace the old spark plug with a new one. Make sure it is the proper plug for your machine, and that it is gapped properly. An improper plug gap will throw off the readings. If the gap is too small, it will not burn properly. If it is too large, it will cause added stress on other ignition components, causing premature failure. You should have fresh fuel at the proper octane level. Most small engines run best with 92-94 octane fuels. It is also important that you have a clean air and fuel filters for the tests.
Plug testing is the easiest way to help you dial in the jetting of the carburetor after adding performance parts and for different altitude or weather changes. The color of the spark plugs is used as an indicator and lets you know what way to start re-jetting the carburetor.
There are three basic ranges that a plug test can be used to check.
3/4-Full throttle, which is controlled primarily by the main jet
1/2 throttle, which is dominated by the taper angle of the needle and the clip position.
1/4 throttle, which is mainly, controlled by the strait diameter of the needle but also the slow circuit.
Testing the Main Jet
Once you have a new plug installed and gapped properly, start the machine and let it warm up. Take the machine for a VERY short ride to bring it up to normal operating temperature. Find an open spot of road and get it up to top gear. Roll on the throttle and hold
it wide open; 2 strokes for 3-5 seconds. 4 strokes 10 - 15 seconds. While you are still wide open you must stop/kill the engine using the kill switch while pulling in the clutch at the same time, all the while still holding the throttle wide open. Let the bike coast to a stop with the clutch still pulled in .Do not let the clutch out until you come to a complete stop.
**** It is very important that you do not let the engine slow down or idle at all. You must do it this way for every test!****
Now you need to remove the spark plug and check its condition. You want to look and take note at the white insulator part of the plug only, not the metal tip or electrode.
The insulator of the spark plug must be a light grayish-tan to light brown color. If the insulator is white, it is too lean, meaning the main jet is too small. If the insulator is black or wet, it is too rich, meaning the main jet is too big.
The steps for checking the other ranges are basically the same. If you want to check the 1/2 throttle range you want to hold it steady at 1/2 throttle in top gear for about 20-30 seconds. The same for 1/4 throttle testing, hold it steady at 1/4 throttle. Pull in the clutch and shut if off at the same time while holding the throttle at a steady speed.

BASIC CARBURETION
To be able to properly jet or re-jet a carburetor you must first know how they work. Most ATV and off-road motorcycle carburetors work basically the same way. The two most popular models are the Keihin and Mikuni.

These carbs have two primary fuel circuits; the slow/pilot circuit and the main circuit, which have several parts or components that will effect the mixture at different throttle positions. There are 4 throttle positions that are used to determine what component is effecting the mixture. They are idle/off idle, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle and 3/4 to full throttle.
It is important that you remember that the main fuel circuit is only part of the entire fuel delivery and any changes you make to the slow circuit will affect the main circuit as well, because the slow/pilot circuit is delivering fuel from idle to full throttle. So you must start with the slow circuit and work your way up to the main circuit.
The Pilot/Slow Circuit
The pilot/slow circuit has two major components that affect the mixture. They are the the pilot/slow jet and the air mixture screw. The pilot/slow jet has a fixed diameter hole that controls the amount of fuel being delivered through the slow circuit. The mixture screw is an adjustment screw to control the amount of air being mixed with the fuel from the slow jet.
The Main Circuit
This circuit has 4 components that effect the mixture from about 1/4 throttle to wide open/full throttle. These parts are the throttle slide cut-away, jet needle or needle, the needle jet and the main jet. The throttle cut-away effects the amount of air but can be left alone. The needle primarily controls the mixture from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle. The needle moves up and down inside the needle jet as you open and close the throttle. The diameter of the needle is what affects the mixture at 1/4 throttle. The taper of the needle and the clip position effect the mixture at 1/2 throttle up to 3/4 throttle. At 3/4 to full throttle, the mixture is controlled mostly by the main jet.
Starting From The Bottom
The first throttle range to dial in is the idle/off idle range. Any time there is a weather change or you are riding in a different area you may need to adjust the mixture screw for a clean and crisp engine response. The two main settings are the air mixture screw and the pilot/slow jet. The correct setting is the one that allows a crisp engine response with the air screw about 1 3/4 turns out. If you need to turn the air screw out more than 2 1/2 turns, then it is too rich and you need a smaller pilot jet. If you need only to turn the mixture screw out 1 turn, then it is too lean and you need a larger pilot jet.
1/4 Throttle
The mixture in this range is mostly controlled by the diameter of the needle. A lean mixture will cause the engine to hesitate and a rich mixture will cause it to sputter while keeping it at a steady speed. If there is hesitation, then a smaller needle is needed. If it is rich a larger one will need to be installed.
1/2 Throttle
This range is controlled by the clip position and taper angle of the needle. The correct clip position is often all you need to dial in this range. The correct position is the one that will allow the engine to rev cleanly from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle without hesitation or sputtering. Raising the needle clip will lean the mixture and lowering the clip will richen the mixture. If you find that you are all the
way to the top or all the way to the bottom positions and the jetting is still off, you may need a different needle jet (if available) or a needle with different dimensions.
3/4 to Full Throttle
This range is controlled mostly by the main jet. A correct main jet will allow the engine to rev cleanly all the way until it drops off the power band with out sputtering or hesitation. A lean mixture will have power in the lower RPM's but will get sluggish and/or hesitate in the higher RPM's. A rich mixture will rev ok but sputter in the higher RPM ranges

you think a 160 keihin main for the choke removed, K&N with the air box lid removed and a HMF slip on?

[jesseweaver]

lots and lots of stickers:D

doesnt really make it faster but always bring everything you need when you go riding, at the track or on trails. it sucks if you just get a little cut in the tire and not have any plugs or anything. always bring an extra spark plug to. bring just about everything you can think of--always be prepared.

[tanner 222]

or just put a hitch on your garage and carry it around like a trailer then your guaranteed to have everything :D

[j450rking]

not always! lol

[tanner 222]

haha true dat

[Brauap]

bump!

[Ruby Soho]

- keep an eye on the pivot bolt

- gusset the frame on the 2 rails that connect at the shock mount and up by the bumper

- relocate the battery into the airbox, it will keep it cleaner and nicer for a longer time.

- get a foam filter

- slip-on pipes are good:p

- get better front shocks

- adjust your rear shock for your own weight etc.. it helps alot

- 14t front sprocket

[F-16Guy]

Remove the headpipe and grind the welds on the inside of the mounting flanges so they're even with the inner diameter of the pipe.

[Brauap]

Originally posted by Ruby Soho
- keep an eye on the pivot bolt

- gusset the frame on the 2 rails that connect at the shock mount and up by the bumper

- relocate the battery into the airbox, it will keep it cleaner and nicer for a longer time.

- get a foam filter

- slip-on pipes are good:p

- get better front shocks

- adjust your rear shock for your own weight etc.. it helps alot

- 14t front sprocket

I have a K&N.. why get a nother foam, if stocks foam? I know "it flows better" but not as good as a K&N.. right?

[fullysic 400]

13tooth front sprocket = 100kph tops,gets there real quick

Originally posted by Brauap
I have a K&N.. why get a nother foam, if stocks foam? I know "it flows better" but not as good as a K&N.. right?

yeah why get a foam filter K&N flow so much better and are easier to maintain. A K&N with an Outerwears flows better and protects against more than just a foam filter.

[tar]

Originally posted by FoxHondaRider
yeah why get a foam filter K&N flow so much better and are easier to maintain. A K&N with an Outerwears flows better and protects against more than just a foam filter.

I don't think so! My K&N isn't worth the extra 0.23345 hp increase. The up keep on them is a pain in the ***! Plus they are 3x the price of a UNI.

i think the K&N is much easier to clean than the foam and much easier to oil.

[j450rking]

i had a k&n and with the outerwear and oiling it right i still had some small grity dust in my air boot and when o took my carb apart there would be alot in there. so i switched to a uni without an outerwear i didn't have anything pass through. but if you don't have anything in the air boot then you can keep it but if you have anything in there then i would chang it b/c thet crap thats getting in your engine could wear out your engine faster and gum up your carb and thats no good.

Alright performance wise so far I think we have:

-Remove the choke plate
-Bore the insulator (black piece that connects from carb to head)
-Run 1 base gasket


anything else?

[trx400EXtreme]

Originally posted by F-16Guy
Remove the headpipe and grind the welds on the inside of the mounting flanges so they're even with the inner diameter of the pipe. what does this do?

Originally posted by trx400EXtreme
what does this do?

absolutely nohing but clean up the pipe to make it look "aftermarket" because it wont have the exhaust shield

[trx400EXtreme]

o lol i see.:D

i'm pretty sur ei misread that sorry i though it as syaing to cut the brackets off where the exhaust guard is. sorry

[trx400EXtreme]

Originally posted by FoxHondaRider
i'm pretty sur ei misread that sorry i though it as syaing to cut the brackets off where the exhaust guard is. sorry thats what i thought too.

i got another 1, do your own port cleanup but be carefull of what your doing. I did a practice on a head that was useless from another 400ex motor but i'm not sure if i trust myself enough to do my own port and polish.

[quadgod440ex]

Take your k&n's off and put them uptowards a light. look through them see if u can see light , if u can see light then dirt is getting through. put a uni filter up to a light i guarantee you that you dont see any light. which is keeping alot more dirt out of ur engine.

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by trx400EXtreme
what does this do?
The machined flanges where the headpipe bolts to the cylinder head are welded to the tubing from the inside. By grinding the beads of weld flush with the tubing, you can probably gain a couple millimeters of inside diameter. In theory, it should flow better. I don't know how much HP you'd gain, but its free, so why not?

Originally posted by F-16Guy
The machined flanges where the headpipe bolts to the cylinder head are welded to the tubing from the inside. By grinding the beads of weld flush with the tubing, you can probably gain a couple millimeters of inside diameter. In theory, it should flow better. I don't know how much HP you'd gain, but its free, so why not?

if i understand this correctly you grind the inside of the exhaust where it gets wider where it connects to the head correct?

[JOEX]

Originally posted by FoxHondaRider
if i understand this correctly you grind the inside of the exhaust where it gets wider where it connects to the head correct?
Pretty close...

There's a weld bead about an inch from the opening, very noticable once it's off and you stick your finger in there. the idea is to grind that weld bead flush to the rest of the pipe.

If you're really good you'll want to 'port match' it. Making the header opening and exhaust port flush to each other. Not sure how to deal with the gasket though. I think when that gets squished into place part of it will be pushed into the opening and making the port matching useless...

Originally posted by JOEX
Pretty close...

There's a weld bead about an inch from the opening, very noticable once it's off and you stick your finger in there. the idea is to grind that weld bead flush to the rest of the pipe.

If you're really good you'll want to 'port match' it. Making the header opening and exhaust port flush to each other. Not sure how to deal with the gasket though. I think when that gets squished into place part of it will be pushed into the opening and making the port matching useless...

thats the exact thing i was thinking with the port to match exhaust. do they make a crush gasket thats the same diameter outside but bigger inside? so its just thinner? port clean ups are ver easy to do and if you have the time a port and polish isnt extremely hard. sure the proffessionals could do much better with a flow bench and stuff but it you just lean up the ports or just take a bit off your fine. I wouldnt mess with the intake side only because theres a special way to do it so you keep a A/F ratio and the gas particles are mixed with the air. If you make the intake port smooth your not obtaining the correct mixture and a wrong port and ploish could hurt performance. As for exhaust as long as its not ovaled or something your fine