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Choppers
12-18-2007, 07:49 PM
What all is invlolved in the installation? I took the cover off and it looks like some gears and other stuff have to come off. Does anything have to be realigned like gears and what not for it to be perfrect?

drew416ex
12-18-2007, 08:23 PM
You do have to take the nut off that holds on two gears. THen the gears slide off the shaft and you can put on the new chain. You dont have to do anything to realigne the gears.

drew416ex
12-18-2007, 08:24 PM
oh yeah, dont forget to take off the cam chain tensioner.

JOEX
12-18-2007, 08:27 PM
The clutch assembly will need to be removed. Maybe the oil pump, I don't remember.

It's not real difficult for someone mechanically inclined.

Choppers
12-18-2007, 08:40 PM
yea i took the cam chain tensioner off already. Just wanted to make sure the gears didn't have to be lined up with anything and the guy doing it said maybe the oil pump. He just wanted to make sure nothing had to be lined up before he started doing it.

drew416ex
12-18-2007, 08:49 PM
Yeah forgot about that. The clutch has to be removed. The clutch nut has a spot on it that has to be ground down to get the nut off. It is a one time use only nut so you will have to get another but they are cheap. The outside gear does have a notch in it, basically where a spline should be, it has to line up on the shaft and "OUT" is stamped on one side. It has to face toward the outside of the engine. If you need some torque specs let me know.

Choppers
12-18-2007, 11:18 PM
yea give me the torque specs please

drew416ex
12-19-2007, 02:54 PM
Clutch cover: 9 Nm or 80 in-lb.
Clutch lock nut: 108 Nm or 80 ft-lb.
oil pump: 13 Nm or 115 in-lb.
Primary drive nut: 88 Nm or 65 ft-lb.

I think this is all you need. If you need any others let me know.

416exfreak
12-19-2007, 04:13 PM
Make sure than when you put it back together, you get the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the COMPRESSION stroke (piston going up...it should be hard to turn the crank when you see the "T" mark) when you put it all back together.

The "T" mark is actually a sideways T with a line on one side of it. The line is also verticle, I'll try to find my manual and put what it says on here for you.

If I can find my honda sevice manual Ill put the written text in, but I cant put the pictures in. And since my engine is halfway to DRI, I cant take the plug out and take a picture of the mark it has to be on either.:ermm:

I would advise buying a Factory Honda service manual. I dont think they cost a lot. I want to think I gave $25 for mine, but I could be wrong. Anyways, it has been worth every single penny I paid for it. I highly recommend it. Good, high quality photos, and its the same manual that your mechanics at the local Honda shop are working from.

STAY AWAY FROM CLYMER! They dont have nearly as good of pictures and some of thier specs are incorrect. I used to have a Clymer manual. I broke quite a few bolts from overtightening acording to thier specs.

Good luck!;)

drew416ex
12-19-2007, 04:19 PM
The timing mark he is refering to has a "T" next to it.

416exfreak
12-19-2007, 07:25 PM
Thats exactly it.

Thanks for making that clearer...I cant find my damn manual. Im going to look tomorro when I get home from school. It'll be good stress releif. Tomorrow ends our mid-term exams.

I though they were hard last year....I have 3 AP exams and 4 Honors exams....omg....the study guides were like 50 pages long.
Last test is tomorrow....supposedly the hard one....

I think ima take some extra ADHD meds in the morning so I can be sure Ill stay calm. I have hyperactivity problems anyways....:D

JOEX
12-19-2007, 08:34 PM
Originally posted by 416exfreak

I would advise buying a Factory Honda service manual. I dont think they cost a lot. I want to think I gave $25 for mine, but I could be wrong. Anyways, it has been worth every single penny I paid for it. I highly recommend it. Good, high quality photos, and its the same manual that your mechanics at the local Honda shop are working from.
I'm pretty sure the factory Honda manual is closer to $50.

Originally posted by 416exfreak

STAY AWAY FROM CLYMER! They dont have nearly as good of pictures and some of thier specs are incorrect. I used to have a Clymer manual. I broke quite a few bolts from overtightening acording to thier specs.

Good luck!;)
What specs are wrong? I've had my motor apart a few times, even split the case to replace the shift shaft using a Clymer manual.

drew416ex
12-19-2007, 08:52 PM
STAY AWAY FROM CLYMER! They dont have nearly as good of pictures and some of thier specs are incorrect. I used to have a Clymer manual. I broke quite a few bolts from overtightening acording to thier specs.

Good luck!;) [/B][/QUOTE]

I have a clymer and havnt had a problem. Ive torqed every bolt to their specs and havnt had a problem.

416exfreak
12-20-2007, 11:29 AM
Well, I could be wrong. Maybe those particular bolts were just weak and about to break anyways.

I do know for a fact that Clymers pictures arent as good as the ones in the Factory manual. Ive compared them before.:)

Choppers
12-20-2007, 11:32 AM
i got the specs off of the front page i believe. everything is going smooth. have everything installed now. all i have left is to put the valve cover back on and adjust the valves. and put the side cover back on. thanks for all the help guys.