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BlasterEaten250
11-28-2007, 02:10 PM
I just recieved a used e series and when i go to put it on, the mounting bracket does not line up at all when I slip it onto the headpipe. Was I supposed to get some special mounting hardware or something? It seems like the stock headpipe doesn't curve up enough at the end. Am I just doing something wrong?

Honda#4
11-28-2007, 02:17 PM
Is it the S-bend slip on E-series or the Pro Meg E-series cuz if its the Pro Meg you need the Header for it to work right. Get some pics up then we can tell whats goin on.

exrider12
11-28-2007, 02:17 PM
my friend has one il see if u need something special

XXXRACER165
11-28-2007, 02:27 PM
You also need a 2&1/2 long aluminum spacer for the top mounting bracket. Are you missing that?

11-28-2007, 02:32 PM
you can run it without the spacer, I did but its better to have it

BlasterEaten250
11-28-2007, 02:37 PM
ahh shoot, i really hope its not the pro meg:ermm: I dont have that spacer, it could be that, I'm REALLY hoping its as simple as that:( Also, is it more or less disks in that makes it quieter?

wykyd450R
11-28-2007, 03:58 PM
Its not the pro-meg. You can use a bunch of washers to make the spacer if needed.

jesseweaver
11-28-2007, 04:57 PM
more disks+remove spark arrestor=LOUDER=FASTER=:D

BlasterEaten250
11-28-2007, 06:50 PM
I got it to work without the spacer, but I will eventually go to the hardware store and get some sort of spacer and longer bolt.

I'm going to keep it on the quiet side, it definately needs new packing.

here's a picture of it

oleboy87
11-28-2007, 07:09 PM
looking good! i bet you got a good deal on that thing huh.... lol i was talking to ya brother when you was installing it and he said you was having trouble with it...

AtvMxRider
11-28-2007, 07:17 PM
Originally posted by BlasterEaten250
I got it to work without the spacer, but I will eventually go to the hardware store and get some sort of spacer and longer bolt.

I'm going to keep it on the quiet side, it definately needs new packing.

here's a picture of it


If you don't put the spacer on it you will break it.

oleboy87
11-28-2007, 07:19 PM
you have a pic of where the spacers go? i dont quite know what you talking about... the way i shipped it to you is the way it came off the bike

AtvMxRider
11-28-2007, 07:20 PM
The spacer goes behind the top bracket on the pipe.

oleboy87
11-28-2007, 07:22 PM
yea i see what you mean now but mine had a lil play in it and allowed it to just bolt up

zdowell
11-28-2007, 07:29 PM
You could get a longer bolt and a bunch of washers, it would do the same, just look at little ghetto. If you could find something cylinder in shape and cut it to like 2 to 2 1/2 inches it would look just like the spacer its suppose to look like.

oleboy87
11-28-2007, 07:35 PM
yeaaa maybe a piece or small pipe.. sounds like ya bro is ready to check it out

glamiskid395
11-28-2007, 10:36 PM
you shouldnt need to repack the e-series but i could be wrong, does anybody know if you have to repack.
mines 4 years old and i havent repacked.

oleboy87
11-29-2007, 05:59 AM
ohhh yea that one needs to be repacked... no doubt

Pipeless416
11-29-2007, 09:54 AM
i'll help you when im home if you want to wait brandon. for a fee. :devil:

oleboy87
11-29-2007, 02:42 PM
i tryed to repack it but i couldnt get the can to come off... thats why there is all kinds of marks on it...

glamiskid395
11-29-2007, 06:38 PM
Originally posted by glamiskid395
you shouldnt need to repack the e-series but i could be wrong, does anybody know if you have to repack.
mines 4 years old and i havent repacked.

how do i go about doing that?

is there an article on how to repack a e-series pipe or any pipe similar?

what will i gain from repacking?

Pipeless416
11-29-2007, 06:52 PM
Originally posted by glamiskid395
how do i go about doing that?

is there an article on how to repack a e-series pipe or any pipe similar?

what will i gain from repacking?

repacking is fairly straight forward. drill the rivets out, or if you're lucky, take the bolts out. some may not require the midpipe end rivets to be removed, so i would try just the outlet side first. this will allow you to pull the end cap, and the core out of the canister. not all are the same, for example- on an HMF the core is welded to the midpipe end, so drilling out all of the rivets and taking the canister off is necessary. once you have the core out, remove the old packing, and wrap the new stuff around it. rubberband the new packing so it stays, and cut it to length. with this, reassemble the pipe with the new packing still rubberbanded around the core. install new rivets or to make it more repacking friendly, tap threads into the rivet holes and use bolts instead. repacking is just regular maintenance, and it is not meant to enhance performance. however, blown out packing can cause a loss in low end power and it will cause your pipe to be louder than it should be.

oleboy87
11-29-2007, 06:54 PM
with the new packing its not giong to sound hollow anymore... but its only going to help the power

glamiskid395
11-29-2007, 06:59 PM
my pipe doesnt have the hollow sound as bad as my buddys 400 who has only had the pipe for 2 years.

if i get the time ill repack it before new years trip to glamis.

thanks, didnt mean to steel the thread.