start racing gncc

[kawi_rider_97]

Hey, im gettin ready to start racin gncc and i don't know what i should do to my quad to get it ready. it already has a 440 kit, pro-circuit exhaust, UNI filter, pro armor nerfs, pro armor grab bar, works shocks, kill switch, and tag t2 bars. i have a picture of it also if that will help, any info would be appreciated, thanks.

[JOEX]

Hand guards
Front bumper
Rear tires...

[CDCHONDAS]

if there is one thing I would do is get either reinforced bead rims or beadlocks, flats suck. Other than that I think you have enough to start.

[MO-EX-RIDER]

gncc=skid plates, steering stabilizer, beadlocks, suspension, a good bumper, tireballs, and flexx bars wont hurt:D


GRAB SOME CARDIO STACK AND HAVE FUN

[CDCHONDAS]

oh and tearoffs for you

[spanky101]

all depends how serius you want to get and how much money you have to spend. imo if i was you id invest in some full fenders, hand gaurds, a steering stabilizer, beadlocks and quality tires

[kawi_rider_97]

I've got acerbis rally2 handgaurds, and im lookin at some holeshot gncc tires. as for the steering stabilizer, are you talkin bout a stabilizer or the expensive dampeners? and does anyone know where i can get some beadlocks for cheap?

[kawi_rider_97]

i was also wanting to know if there is anything i can do to make it have a little more power without spending allot of money.

[JOEX]

Originally posted by kawi_rider_97
i was also wanting to know if there is anything i can do to make it have a little more power without spending allot of money.
If you're a beginner racer I wouldn't worry about more power yet. Focus on DFN proofing yourself and the quad and learning to read the course.

[coryatver]

first thing on your list should be some front fenders. Then get rid of the nerf bars unless you like getting hung up on everything. Then swingarm skid plate, chassis skid plate, hand guards, some new tires that are 6 ply. then race a few times all that before you even think about more power

[kawi_rider_97]

i've been riding for a long time and im pretty good, not trying to brag, but more performance, is one of my main concerns, i planned on entering either c or b class.

[coryatver]

If you can win with a modified kfx in c or b class you will win with a pretty much stock powered one. you need to spend money on a lot of other stuff first unless you got a lot of money.

Also get yourself in shape don't just worry about the quad. Just trying to help you out but if you don't want to listen learn the hard way if you want.

[honda8&3]

SKID PLATES #1, then a tether kill switch. Pro design makes a good one. Then if you don't like the works, get some TCS with remote rezzies!:cool:

[ZeroLogic]

Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. Skid plates. :o

[kawi_rider_97]

whats the best skid plates? and does anyone know where i can get some bead locks for cheap? and thanks everyone your info is definitely, helpin me out.

[416exfreak]

Check the for sale section of this site. They have great deals in there.

All skid plates are good. Make sure they are made of metal and are .190" thick.;)

[JOEX]

Originally posted by 416exfreak
Check the for sale section of this site. They have great deals in there.

All skid plates are good. Make sure they are made of metal and are .190" thick.;)
.25" may be better;)

[416exfreak]

Originally posted by JOEX
.25" may be better;)

I didnt know they made them that thick:D

[kawi_rider_97]

how do i tell how thick it is before i buy it?

[03warriorrider]

i dont race but ride some pretty rocky trails and for skid plates id suggest looking at prm skid plates. i had one on my warrior (the .290 thickness one) and i ended up snapping one of the steel skid mounts on the swingarm and didnt even bend the skidplate. i have a dg on my 450r and after a few rides with it the thing is twisted to s**t

[03warriorrider]

Originally posted by kawi_rider_97
how do i tell how thick it is before i buy it?

it should say a thickness somewhere. if your buying it online it should say in the description or specs.

[honda8&3]

.25" Swingarm skid and the rest .190"! I love PRM's but Pro Armor and Armadillo are great too. :cool:

[honda8&3]

Originally posted by kawi_rider_97
how do i tell how thick it is before i buy it?

PRM says how thick it is, but Pro Armor's are .25 swinger skid and .190 for the rest! Get PRM IMO:cool:

[JOEX]

Originally posted by 416exfreak
I didnt know they made them that thick:D
Belly skids are usually .190" but swing arm skids can be .25":)

[416exfreak]

Originally posted by JOEX
Belly skids are usually .190" but swing arm skids can be .25":)

Gotcha!:D

[Sjorge450R]

who ever said the thing about the nerf bars making you get caught up on stuff doesnt know anything. If you are fast enough and know how to ride, you should never hit your nerfs. I know my nerfs dont look bad at all on the bottom. Just a few times i stopped looking where i was going or from when i was messing around doing stupid stuff. Keep the nerfs if you wanna keep your ankles/feet intact.

[honda8&3]

Originally posted by Sjorge300EX
who ever said the thing about the nerf bars making you get caught up on stuff doesnt know anything. If you are fast enough and know how to ride, you should never hit your nerfs. I know my nerfs dont look bad at all on the bottom. Just a few times i stopped looking where i was going or from when i was messing around doing stupid stuff. Keep the nerfs if you wanna keep your ankles/feet intact.

I agree 100% Steve ;)

[trx400EXtreme]

Originally posted by 416exfreak
I didnt know they made them that thick:D thats what she said.:devil: sorry it had to be said.

[flauge]

Originally posted by Sjorge300EX
who ever said the thing about the nerf bars making you get caught up on stuff doesnt know anything. If you are fast enough and know how to ride, you should never hit your nerfs. I know my nerfs dont look bad at all on the bottom. Just a few times i stopped looking where i was going or from when i was messing around doing stupid stuff. Keep the nerfs if you wanna keep your ankles/feet intact. I'll tell you the truth,I beleive my nerfs have actually helped me out. Theres a few times that I thought my back tire was going to hit a tree in the real tight stuff but instead they hit the bar and I whipped on around it. I dont think id race w/o them.:cool:

[ex kid]

I would deffinatly not race the B class at a GNCC if you have NEVER raced before. you really don't know what your getting yourself into.

[Sjorge450R]

best class to run will prob be C 16-19. Trust me, I race A class in locals and i raced that class just for the hell of it back in march and i actually had to TRY to keep up with everyone. Trust me, they are no slow pokes.

[Jake250ex]

Originally posted by kawi_rider_97
i've been riding for a long time and im pretty good, not trying to brag, but more performance, is one of my main concerns, i planned on entering either c or b class.

I thought the same thing before my first race. Not nocking you, you probably are fast but its more about keeping your bike together and being in shape to finish at the top.

Heres how my first race was : 16 years old, mostly stock perdator, local B class.

lead the first lap, got stuck about 10 times the 2nd lap, crashed, overheated/torn up quad, couldnt lift my arms... DNF

[416exfreak]

Originally posted by Jake250ex
I thought the same thing before my first race. Not nocking you, you probably are fast but its more about keeping your bike together and being in shape to finish at the top.

Heres how my first race was : 16 years old, mostly stock perdator, local B class.

lead the first lap, got stuck about 10 times the 2nd lap, crashed, overheated/torn up quad, couldnt lift my arms... DNF

Ouch...Id start from behind and work my way forward. Thats what I do in my XC foot races. I start dead last and by the time the race is over (3.1 miles later) im usually between 4th and 15th.:devil:

(out of 2**)