Rebuild Suggestions Wanted

[Bigdaddy52302]

It has been determined that my rings are bad and I need to rebuild the top end. I think I want to stay stock bore assuming the head is in good shape, any Ideas on what piston and gasket kit to buy. I want to go forged and high compresion but not lose the reliablity. Also have to keep in mind I am a husband and father so my income is limited. All ideas welcome and appreciated.

[f150mann]

high compression = more money for fuel, hd head studs, etc.

go std bore 11:1 piston you will enjoy that

[Bigdaddy52302]

11:1 that is high comp. is it not?

[honda8&3]

Yes get an 11:1 piston with a stage 1 hotcam:cool:

[f150mann]

well yes, it is.. just to me i consider a high comp piston like 13:1, but to most, yep 11:1 is

[JOEX]

The condition of the head has nothing to with the condition of the bore. Make sure your cylinder is still in good shape before puchasing a new piston.

my brother had the wiesco 10:1 piston and you could feel the difference just because it was lighter and made it rev quicker. whats the stock compression ratio?

[drew416ex]

The good thing about 11:1 is you can still run pump gas. :p

[F-16Guy]

I would go with an 11:1 Wiseco piston, Hotcams stage 2 cam, Cometic Flexsteel gasket set, and have GT Thunder install a set of heavy duty head studs. Some people will disagree about the head studs, but mine pulled out with an 11:1 416cc bore, and the same has happened to many others. If you want reliability, I would highly suggest the head studs. I know you're on a budget, but how much more would it cost to pull your engine apart a second time to get it done right?
While we're on the subject of money, I would also highly suggest, if you can afford it, to have it bored to the next oversize (86mm/406cc). It's always better, in my opinion, to start with a bore that you know is fresh and straight. Realistically, the piston kits are the same price between standard and oversize, so it's only going to cost another $50-$70. If you get the head studs done, GT Thunder can do the bore, too, and you'll know everything is perfect. All told, it would only add about another $150 to the build, and you'd have the piece of mind knowing that your engine will last a very long time.
About the cam: I say stage 2 cam because you want to run on pump fuel, so the extra duration will lower the dynamic compression ratio, which will decrease the likelyhood of detonation. You may still have to run a mix at the dunes if its hot and you're near sea level. Losing bottom end due to the lower cylinder pressure is not really an issue with the 400ex because it has so much torque in the first place. Any loss from the cam is more than made up for by the piston, so no worries there.
Good luck with the build!!!