Tie ROD adjustment

[beerock]

ive had my +2 +1 a-arms on my quad for a while.

but I never got the tie rods right.

anyone have a good way to adjust the tie rods?

should I have a little toe in or toe out? or 0 toe in-toe out?

llets see the suggestions!!!

I have mine set with a little toe in,,,this way it tracks better and the quad doesn't wander side to side when riding hard. And for measuring it i use a tape measure and measure the center to center of tread in the front and do the same for the rear,,or you could eye ball it by standing behind the quad and sitting on it,,,

[beerock]

hee I tried eye ballin it when i first put them on and it pulled to the right(or left)- I cant remember.

Ill try that.

what I was doing was driving up and down the block with the right size wrench in my hand and i kept adjusting it.-it was turning better on one side than the other.

[Lasher]

I posted my method with the string a while back on two different forums. Here is my method.

Here is how to give your quad a true alignment very easily...

I have to do this all the time to my quad. Usually a racing buddy gives me a love tap, which knocks out the toe.

You will need some medium weight string, a tape measure and 4 jack stands or anything that is about the height of the middle of the tire.

First place the quad on level smooth ground (garage floor) and make sure you tire pressures are correct. The two fronts should be the same, then the two rears should be the same.

Push the front and rear of the quad down a few times to properly set the suspension. If you want to be really exact, then have some one of the same weight as you sitting on the quad. They can also keep the bars straight at all times. If you are doing this solo, you can use tie down straps to hold the handlebars straight. From each grip run a tie down to the footpegs or some other fixed point on the quad. Once you have it perfectly straight tighten down the straps. This should hold the handlebars in place during the alignment.

Now loosen the tie rod adjustment nuts. It is easier to get at them before you set up the string lines. Place one jack stand behind each rear and front wheel slightly to the outside. Now tie the string to the front jack stand and to the rear. The string should pass along side the tires right through the center. Complete this for each side.

The easiest way I have found is to measure exactly one inch from each side of the rear wheels. If you rims are straight, then use the outer edge of the rim, and as a last resort use the sidewall of the tire. The string should be positioned exactly one inch from the front of the rear wheel to the back of the rear wheel. You will have to move both stands some to get it perfect. If you are off in any amount on this process, you will not have a true parallel line down the side of your quad on the same plane as the rear end. Complete this for each side.

Now what you have is a line parallel to each side of the quad perpendicular to the rear axles or plane. In other words the line is exactly the same path that the rear wheels will travel when moving.

Now instead of trying to get the front toe on the first shot, get the front wheels to a zero toe. In other words in the same direction as the rear. Do this by measuring the front wheels (preferable by the rims) exactly the same from the string. Since most quads are not exactly the same width for the front and rear, one inch will not be the desired measurement of the front. But to get a zero toe, make sure the measurement from the front of the rim matches the rear of the rim. Once you have all four tires pointed in the same path (parallel ) you can now set your toe.

Not sure on the exact specs for your quad, but take half of the spec and put each front tire in (or out) for that amount. In other words… if you want 1/8 toe in for you alignment, which I run for racing, then you would make the front part of each front wheel point in 1/16 of an inch. With each side 1/16 the total toe would be 1/8.

A few side notes….
1) Everytime you turn the tire rods, check the handle bars. They will move slightly when you adjust the rods.
2) You can never check the rear wheels (inch from string) too much. Never assume that it is still the same as you once set it.
3) You will kick the string or jack stand running around the quad. Say a few swears and just measure it all over again.
4) The first time you do this process it will take a while. Once you do it the first time, it will take nothing at all.
5) Grab a riding buddy. The process is a little easier with two people. Once the string is tied to the stands, you can do the second quad fairly easier.

You would be surprised how much better your quad handles with the proper toe.

Lasher,,, do you have arm pump now from that small article???:D

[Lasher]

I work on a computer all day so I can type as fast as I write. But actually I cut and pasted that from another forum where I posted it.

[beerock]

thanks lasher that sounds like a good way to do it!!!

[QuadMatt]

Here is my little technique:

Flip the quad up on its back tires on level ground. (or not level, it doesnt matter). I zip tie a small level, 6", to the cross bar on my handle bars and level the handlebars to the ground. Then, with another level, i adjust the front hubs to be perpendicular to the ground. From there, simply adjust any toe in/out you want.

This gives you a good starting point at least.

[Scott]

I'm with quadmatt, I zip tie a level to the cross bar, flip the quad up on the rear wheels and then adjust the run in/out. A level on the outside of the tires will tell you when they're close to straight. Measuring the center to center on the tread, first on the front bumper side of the tire and then on the footpeg side will tell you if they are truly straight. It should be the same distance. Then I'll adjust the toe in so that the distance on the footpeg side is between 1/2" and 3/4" more than the distance on the bumper side.

No eye-balling, and you know exactly where they're set.

[Lasher]

One thing you guys are forgetting is that the front wheels need to be parrellel to the rear wheels before you adjust toe.

Ever see an old POS car driving down the road where the back end is slightly to the side of the front. That is what happens when you do not have all four wheels parrallel.

I used the string method the other day before the race. It only took about 20 minutes to complete with most of the time getting the strings parrellel to the back wheels.

You should also adjust your toe with weight on the tires. If you cannot find some one about your weight to sit on the quad, at least have the weight of the quad itself on the tires.

[Scott]

If your rear axle is straight, then the rear tires are perpendicular to the floor. When you flip the quad up on the rear end, check the front tires with a level along the rim and you'll be able to tell if they are in line with the rears or not.

As for having weight on the suspension, maybe, maybe not, I don't know. But mine has been working fine so far...

[QuadMatt]

Lasher,

I know what you mean when cars are "crabbed", meaning the rear axle is not square to the body, but thgis has nothing to do with front alignment.

SO, I'm a bit confused as to what you mean by aligning the front to the rear.

[Scott]

He's meaning make sure that the fronts are tracking parallel to the rears to start with, or zero toe in/out.

[QuadMatt]

OK,

Then having the handle bars parallel to the ground and the fonts perp would be the same thing. (Assuming your rear axle is squared)

[Scott]

Yep.

[Red Rooster]

This would go well in the FAQ. Very good info guys. :cool: