Raptor won't turn over with plug in. Just clickcs

[250X_project]

I have a 2002 Yamaha Raptor 660. It is said to have a 720 kit with a hot cam. Also, It does have a Supertrapp exhaust and K&N filter. It will not turn over unless the spark plug is out. Then it turns over with out any problem. Otherwise it will just click. The batt is BN yet sinks down to under 9V when you crank it(yet holds 12). This must mean it is already junk?? Do I need a starter with more power or just need to replace my week old battery?? I am absolutely terrible at electrical, and the people in the craptor forum once again, won't reply. Please help!

[Aceman]

There is a good chance the battery is crap. Once, I had bought a brand new battery for my Mustang and it wouldn't crank the motor without a jump, come to find out it had sat on the shelf too long.

First thing to try, I'd tear your starter apart and sand the armature with emery cloth till it's a nice shiny copper color as well as inspect/replace the brushes. When starters wear out they pull more amps and have a harder time cranking the engine over, especially higher compression big bore kits.

[f4istunna]

clicking could be the selenoid. Id bet w/ all the compression you have now, a high compression starter and bigger selenoid and wires would solve your problem

[Aceman]

A solenoid is just a heavy duty switch that can handle the high amp draw a starter has. It doesn't care how much compression the engine makes, it only opens/closes the circuit that controls the starter.

Forgot to mention, make sure all your connections are clean, the grounds as well.

[250X_project]

Thanks guys! I already cleaned the connections. It would click a bit then crank it over. It got worse and worse until the clicking was all the remained. Then I put the batt in and it started right up. 4 times. then I'm back where I was. If I jump start it it makes no diff. it just clicks.

So, maybe the starter?

[f4istunna]

If it were me id change the starter to a high torq starter and bigger wires from starter to new solenoid.


I have had that problem a few times. Actually just bought a 440 and it needs starter 440 kit has been in for few months. Stock starters dont have the torque to turn over high compression motors.

I Ran a streetbike battery in my yfz and it helped give more cranking time and spun the stock starter a little faster but in time the stock starter will still give out

[250X_project]

Yeah there was a high torque starter on eBay, but now it's gone. I'm hoping it comes back on. Is there a way I can test the starter before I spend money on a new one? Thanks!

[zeus54]

try listening to tunna. the cliking is the starter solenoid not the starter. you can test it for a voltage draw the same way you did the battery or try taking a pair of pliers with insulated handles and touch the two posts of the solenoid with the pliers with the key on and in neutral all this does is bypass the solenoid switch , or run direct power to the starter motor with a jumper wire from the battery (positive). honestly i would put my money on the solenoid needing to be replaced especially listen for where the "cliking" is coming from. also putting larger wires on is not going to help, you will lose amp draw through the cables you need some resistance for the current to pass through efficiently enough, also clean the posts and terminal connectors

[speedjunkie13]

250X_project, the first thing you need to do is verify that the battery is good, you said this is a new battery right, did you buy it as a cry cell? did you charge it up properly after filling it like the instructions call for? if so, take it to a parts store and have it load tested. I know these sound like basic things, but you need to make sure that battery is good before you go buying a new starter.


Originally posted by zeus54
also putting larger wires on is not going to help, you will lose amp draw through the cables you need some resistance for the current to pass through efficiently enough

Also, this is not a correct statement. I'm not saying that installing larger gauge wires would solve his problem, but, any time you are trying to pass more current (amperage) the larger the wire the better. when it comes to electrical circuits resistance is never good.

[f4istunna]

ya definately load test the battery i was just assuming battery was good.

And ya the smaller oem wiring will get real warm quick especially w/ the high torq starter, if it doesnt start right away. . Better safe than sorry id say

Let us know how it goes

[250exkid]

i had the exact same problom with my old 250sx threewheeler i replaced the selenoid and that still wasnt the problom. i took the battery in and they said it was fine so i put it on a charger all day and put it on and it didnt click any more it started right up but the battery soon lost charg with in a month so my guess is your starter is drawing way to much juice and killing ur battery....

[250X_project]

If I try to jump the battery, or bypass the solenoid it does no better. This leads me to think it is a weak starter. Correct? Thanks guys!

[f4istunna]

ya that was my first assumption, when you build high compression engines, stock starters sometimes have trouble turning them.

Id put my money on the starter but if you can afford it run some thicker leads(4 or 6ga. maybe) and look into a bigger selonoid

good luck

[250X_project]

I found an aftermarket starter I want, but it is advertised for a 400ex. Would it work on a Raptor?

[f4istunna]

thats what im getting for the 440ex i have, im not sure if they are compatible for the rap or not. If not im sure theres some out there, theres alot of big bore bikes other than just 400's lol.

Ill look around and if i come across anything or any info ill let you know.