oil questions

[oleboy87]

ok well i have two questions:

1. i want to switch from regular honda oil to synthetic.. so what prcoess should i use to do this? and what brand should i go with, i know everyone has there own opinion..

2. and someone told me the other day that when you change your oil to flush everything with diesel before you change the filter...... has anyone ever heard of this? is it effective?

[Helix]

Well, theres not to much to it. Basically its just like a regular oil change. Drain the oil then add the correct amount of the new oil you want to go with. DO NOT flush anything with diesel fuel! I really like the HP 4 honda oil. I've used it for years. Just one thing though. Once you go with full synthetic oil you can't go back to regular oil. You have to keep using synthetic. Not sure why.

[oleboy87]

yeeaa they say that the synthetic helps keep the heat down in the engine... i keep hearing also that everything last longer... so its not a good idea to flush with diesel? it didnt sound to good... leave the filter in and put diesel in there and run for a min and then drain and change filter then put oil in... idk i would be kinda skeptical...

[XXXRACER165]

One thing you gotta watch though is with synthetic oil, it's so slippery your clutch might slip. Keep that in mind.

[JOEX]

Originally posted by XXXRACER165
One thing you gotta watch though is with synthetic oil, it's so slippery your clutch might slip. Keep that in mind.
This is how I understand it...

Many or most automotive synthetics have friction modifiers that may cause the clutch to slip.

There are synthetic oils made specifically for wet clutch set ups.

[oleboy87]

are the ones that are made for a wet clutch system supposed to keep it from slipping? i never thought about that...

[XXXRACER165]

Originally posted by JOEX
This is how I understand it...

Many or most automotive synthetics have friction modifiers that may cause the clutch to slip.

There are synthetic oils made specifically for wet clutch set ups.

Like AMSOIL?

[Hondamaster5505]

actually, theres this one oil, i forget what its called.
Car drag racers and diesel owners use it, and its a type of 10w-40 i think.
They only sell it as for "diesel trucks only" because they need it. But it turns out that racers use it because its the BEST oil for protection. It has all this stuff in it that the EPA hates, and thats why they only advertise for diesel engines because they use em.
My dads friend is an engineer and actually told us this. Its the best oil for even gas motors because it has all the good stuff that the EPA dont like cuz of the emissions. Its real expensive though. Im gonna start running it and when i found out the name, ill tell you.

[svahle]

I personally run the synthetic Silkolene. The nice thing about synthetic is that is does not break down like traditional oils. So it continues to provide protection even after traditional oils break down and protection becomes compromised. However, synthetic will still get dirty and that dirt is abbrasive. So, even with synthetic routine oils changes are necessary. Unless the manufacturer calls for it (like my CDale) I think synthetic is probably overkill.

If you want a cheap synthetic that is safe for a wet clutch get Shell Rotella at Wal-mart. It is also marketed as a diesel oil, but I have used it in the past in a 416ex with good results and no damage to the clutch plates.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Helix
Once you go with full synthetic oil you can't go back to regular oil. You have to keep using synthetic. Not sure why.

This is a myth. You can go back and forth all you want but is pretty pointless to do so anyways. It won't hurt anything.

oleboy87, you can switch right over to full synthetic provided your motor is fully broken in. Synthetics are a big no no on a fresh motor ( too slippery, don't allow proper "wear in").

Flushing the motor with diesel is completely unnecessary. When choosing a synthetic, you must make sure that it is safe for wet clutch setups. If you do a little research you can find out which of the automotive synthetics are and which aren't. If it is made for motorcycles you can bet it's safe.

Personally I run Shell Rotella-T 5w40 (dark blue jug). It is a quality full-syn that is available at Walmart for about $12-13 a GALLON. I can't believe I used to pay $8 a QUART at the Honda dealer for HP4 gold semi-syn. It was originally formulated for heavy duty use in diesels so it contains anti-soot additives which keep your motor super clean. I run it in my quad, truck, and pitbike...talk about universal stuff :p

If money is no object, Amsoil is great stuff as well ;) There's many good choices out there, just make sure the one you choose is safe for wet clutches with the proper viscosity and you can't go wrong.

[Helix]

Is Shell Rotella a synthetic oil?

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Helix
Is Shell Rotella a synthetic oil?

The 5w40 dark blue bottle is full synthetic. There's also a 15w40 in a white bottle but it's a conventional multigrade.

http://www.shell.com/static/rotella-en/images/products/rosn-1gal-5w40-z7.jpg

i use 10w-40 synthetic. Someone was saying once you go to synthetic or once you go to a thicker/thinner oil you cant go back to regular. How could that be true if you drain the oil?

[bens250ex]

hope thats not true cause i ran honda synthetic and noticed my clutch was slippin and its just to exspensive so i switched back.

[Brandutchboy]

I gots a 02 400 ex. I put in 40 w oil. Basically all u do is just drain it like u would for a regular oil change and then refill it.that simple.:)

[Brandutchboy]

Lolz i dont think it be a too good of an idea to flush it out with dieseal. That may just scru it up a bit. and i cant say i eva heard of doin that way.

[Brandutchboy]

yes i get my 10w 40 from a local woods riders or when i take my 400 down to this 1 shop in hanover. i use 10w 40 and it works really great for me. i havent had the clutch slip out on me once yet. so yea i'd say it a good idea to use 10w 40.

[Brandutchboy]

Originally posted by bens250ex
hope thats not true cause i ran honda synthetic and noticed my clutch was slippin and its just to exspensive so i switched back.

alot of synthetic oils do make the clutch slip. but 10w 40 wont. idk wat the reason this is but all i know is 10w 40 is really great. like i said i aint once had the clutch slip out on meh.

[Helix]

Originally posted by NacsMXer
The 5w40 dark blue bottle is full synthetic. There's also a 15w40 in a white bottle but it's a conventional multigrade.

http://www.shell.com/static/rotella-en/images/products/rosn-1gal-5w40-z7.jpg

Do you think 5w40 is to thin of an oil? Reason I ask because Honda says 10w40. I know the 5w40 would be alright during the winter time. But what about summer? do they make a full synthetic 10w40? I've always known of Rotella, but never knew it was that good to where you could run it in a non-diesel motor. Thats sweet! :D

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Helix
Do you think 5w40 is to thin of an oil? Reason I ask because Honda says 10w40. I know the 5w40 would be alright during the winter time. But what about summer? do they make a full synthetic 10w40? I've always known of Rotella, but never knew it was that good to where you could run it in a non-diesel motor. Thats sweet! :D

You can run it year round no problem. Remember, the first number (5w) indicates the oil's viscosity at cold startup. The second number (40) tells you what the oil's viscosity is at operating temperature once it heats up. The 10w40 would be thicker upon initial cold start, but once up to operating temp it would be just as thick as the 5w40.

The 5w40 is the only full synthetic Rotella.

[Helix]

Nice, thanks man. I'm going to buy some Rotella T tomorrow. I wanted to run it in my truck. But after what you said I think it would be to thick. My truck calls for 5w20. Thin stuff.

later

[Luke24]

I run Mobil 1 racing 4T 10W-40 in my 400ex it's 8.19 a quart at
Autozone and I had no problems at all..

[stic]

thats good info.
what procedure do you guys use when changing the oil?
is it necessary to undo the bottom drain bolt(left side of engine?).
i know theres a bolt on the bottom right that is below the 2 oil lines.is this necessary as well?
also,theres a screen inside the case on the clutch side.does this ever need to be cleaned?

[JOEX]

Originally posted by stic
thats good info.
what procedure do you guys use when changing the oil?
is it necessary to undo the bottom drain bolt(left side of engine?).
i know theres a bolt on the bottom right that is below the 2 oil lines.is this necessary as well?
also,theres a screen inside the case on the clutch side.does this ever need to be cleaned?
When I change the oil I always remove the bolt on the left side near the shift lever to drain the case. The bolt on the right side below the two oil lines is just an access hole to check the lubrication system.

As for the screen inside near the clutch assembly I don't know if there's a spec for it but after a rebuild it may be a good idea to clean that side of the case.

[Brandutchboy]

Originally posted by JOEX
When I change the oil I always remove the bolt on the left side near the shift lever to drain the case. The bolt on the right side below the two oil lines is just an access hole to check the lubrication system.

As for the screen inside near the clutch assembly I don't know if there's a spec for it but after a rebuild it may be a good idea to clean that side of the case.

Yea thats how i do it, but when u completly drain or change your oil it be a good idea to also change your oil filter as well.

[flauge]

To yall with the slipping clutches, make sure that whatever syn. you use that it does'nt have Moly in it or any other friction modifier.
Right now Im using Klotz Mx4 with good results and no slipping,next oil change tho I'll be switching over to Amsoil since Im getting a lil support from them next season.

[bansheemorphine]

all this info is great i didn't known half of this thanks alot guys, one thing i have to add just latly i flipped my bike at a local mx track and right where i dismounted there just happened to be a pond and my quad went tips up into it with just the 4 tires sticking up.

I took it home pulled the oil plug on the bottom of the motor and the one on the tank and got most of the water out.

but i knew there was still water in side the motor so i took my spark plug out and popped the oil line off that takes the oil out of the motor.

i whirled it over a few times and a ton of water came out of the oil line hole then a ton of milky oil started coming out.

i took the cover off the head that you use to adjust the valves i dumbed almost a full quart of oil into there and whirled it over untill i had clean oil coming out of the line hole.

i put all the covers and plugs back in filled it up and started it up let it run for a while checked the oil level and the oil looked like brand new still like i had just rebuilt my motor and put oil in it for the first time.

i'm not sure if this hurts anything i couldn't see how but it could really help to get all that old black oil out. if anyone has a reason to not do this please let me know because i'll be doing this everytime i change my oil from now on.