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Tastykake Kid
07-19-2007, 12:34 PM
I'm in the process of installing my DG Carb kit I just got for my LT80. My question is, it says to remove the stock carb AND plastic spacer. Then it says to install the new carb using the old bolts. My question is, there's no gasket between the carb & the cylinder. In the stock set-up it has that plastic spacer which I ASSumed works as the gasket but with this new deal it says not to use the spacer. So, do I make a gasket out of some gasket maker? What have others done when installing an aftermarket carb? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
And FYI - it's not for my kids. I started racing this LT80 in the Big O Lap Dogs class. It's adults on little quads. I've been racing (big) quads professionally since '86 and this HAS to be the most fun! Even though my father in law races his Xtreme Typhoon 125 and whoops us all. Still, I think I'll be a little closer now that I added an LRD pipe, 105 big bore & this carb. Next on the list is clutch mods. After all that is done, if I still can't keep up I'm afraid I'm going to have to sell the LT80 off and go that dang Typhoon route. I would include pic's but it looks like every other stock LT80 you've seen.

LT80
07-20-2007, 09:12 AM
The reed cage has a built in o-ring. That 20 mm thang bolts up to that.

Now to piss ya off.. :D
A 105 kit is 96cc's with a stock stroke. I bet they didn't tell you that all you have to do is bore the stock cylinder instead of using their sleeve.:( The big bore kit deos little for power and less for speed...sorry..
The LRD pipe is OK.

One of my motors on stock bore and stock carb will eat that slow typhoon up!

Clutch mods don't work till you have a motor to turn em.
Clutchs are tuned to the motor in other words. If yours is taking off well, clutch mods are not needed. There is no extra speed to be gained in the clutchs as far as top end goes.

Speed is increased by increasing rpm's ie: I raise rpm's from 6500 to 12k.
That is achieved thru porting.

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=282055
Read all of that thread.

Sorry you wasted a ton of money. :( It happens.

Tastykake Kid
07-20-2007, 09:22 PM
Originally posted by LT80
The reed cage has a built in o-ring. That 20 mm thang bolts up to that.

Now to piss ya off.. :D
A 105 kit is 96cc's with a stock stroke. I bet they didn't tell you that all you have to do is bore the stock cylinder instead of using their sleeve.:( The big bore kit deos little for power and less for speed...sorry..
The LRD pipe is OK.

One of my motors on stock bore and stock carb will eat that slow typhoon up!
Clutch mods don't work till you have a motor to turn em.
Clutchs are tuned to the motor in other words. If yours is taking off well, clutch mods are not needed. There is no extra speed to be gained in the clutchs as far as top end goes.
Speed is increased by increasing rpm's ie: I raise rpm's from 6500 to 12k.
That is achieved thru porting.
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=282055
Read all of that thread.
Sorry you wasted a ton of money. :( It happens.

Thanks for the info. I'll go put the carb on tonight.
As for pissing me off. It's no biggie. I don't get pissed about what people say on boards. I still appreciate you taking the time to write your opinions. I did pay retail for the pipe and I see I said it was an LRD. I'm wrong. It's an ATV Racing pipe. I originally WANTED an LRD but couldn't find one used so I went to ATV Racing since I live in Phx and got that. The carb I also paid retail because I couldn't find a used one. Got it from Golden West Cycle for $189.00. It kills me to put money into this thing instead of my other bikes but they're so much fun to race now. I would be interested in knowing if you feel the ATV Racing pipe is just "ok" also. I won't get offended. I promise. It seems everyone just gives your name (LT80) when someone has questions so I do appreciate you taking the time to help me out. A friend owed me some favors and this 80 felt tired (the other one was stuck) so he had my cylinder bored out (to what he said was) to the max. He said there's some companies that have a sleeve but you didn't have to do it. I got these 2 LT80's just to play with so I wasn't really worried if the sleeve route would've lasted longer. He also put some new reeds in. The head hasn't been touched, the cylinder has not been ported and no clutch mods have been made yet. It takes off "ok" but a TOTALLY stock Viper 90 will get me out of the hole. Plus, coming out of a tight hairpin turn it's SO SLOW. Once the RPM's get up it's fine but around those slow turns where the R's are low it takes a while before it has any acceleration. So far I'm at $918.00 total investment. . .
So do you think Cylinder porting, Head Mods or clutch mods are needed? Or all the above? Remember, we're all big guys racing these things. Reading that your 80 was THAT much faster than the Typhoon makes me happy 'cuz at least there's potential for my low dollar racer.
Also, keep in mind we're all fat-arses. Typhoon rider is 170, I'm 200, the Viper rider is 140 (ok, he's a skinny ***), the guy on the Sin-Rapt or something like that is 260!

etondaddy
07-21-2007, 06:33 AM
Here's what we did to my sons KFX. We don't race it we race the E-Ton
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=301689

LT80
07-22-2007, 07:55 PM
LOL :D
I'm 250 and I can see me kicking their butts with a LT80. :D :D

I'm glad you found out about the sleeve deal. That's saves a bunch of $.
The ATV Racing pipe is fine. It is a lil tougher to get out of the hole, but with a lil this and that, it'll come around just fine. It will produce more rpm's than most.
I use the Trinity pipe because it gives just that lil extra out of the hole. Again, the ATV Racing pipe will work fine.
How is Neal? I try to stop in and see him when I'm in Phoenix.

Removing a cpl rollers from the front clutch will help out of the hole. Look at etondaddy's thread. That's the beginner stuff if I remember correct.

The turning bog can be 2 things
1) the one side of the carb is not vented and can do this
2) the rear clutch torque spring is pancaked and not pushing the clutch back together. Try hard braking (skidding the tires in the hairpin) and see if that helps.
Prolly some of both.

What you need? Yes everything. Whether it's me or another builder, get one that builds the motor and clutchs. They need to work together.
ie: Mikes clutchs don't work with Joe's motor. It's a guaranteed headache. LOL

FYI: Watch that 20mm. The JB weld or whatever DG uses to put the carb in the mount sometimes don't work and the carb will break loose.
:)