Removing Powder Coating?

[Bart]

Is it safe to remove powder coating from a frame by sand blasting? Or is it better to use other methods (chemical dips, etc...)?

Thanks.

[pro-rider46]

pappy said he sends the frames with powder coating already on it to a burn off facility the it gets media blasted.

[Colby@C&DRacing]

I tried the sandblasting method once took FOREVER!!!! that is some tough stuff

[gbcap]

some powder needs to be burnt off then blasted. makes it much easier. some will come right off the first try.

[chronicsmoke]

I know this is an old thread guys, but I have THE solution!

**Gasket Remover**

Spray it on, wait 5-10 mins, and the PC just PEELS off!

I tried it after blasting for like 2-3 hours on my beadlock rings, the Gasket Cleaner go it down to bare metal in 20 mins!

SOOO much easier.

I did my rear rings last night, when I do my fronts I'll take some pics to show you what I mean. Takes hours worth of work away from re powdering parts!

[chronicsmoke]

Use this stuff;

[chronicsmoke]

It bubbles like this 5 minutes after you spray it.

Just scrape it off, it peels off like latex

[Scro]

Aircraft remover will do the same thing. I've done it several times on local PC, and that did the same as yours. Wrinkled up, and peeled right off. Now Pappy's PC, that's a different story. I went through 3 coats of the remover, and it was still tough to scrap off...tough stuff.:macho

[chronicsmoke]

Originally posted by Scro
Aircraft remover will do the same thing. I've done it several times on local PC, and that did the same as yours. Wrinkled up, and peeled right off. Now Pappy's PC, that's a different story. I went through 3 coats of the remover, and it was still tough to scrap off...tough stuff.:macho

really eh?

This was the original PC from ITP, I've never used on my local guy's stuff yet.. It'll be interesting I'm sure!

[dheemstra]

I use a bead blaster for everything I do. Just toss the part in wait 3-4 minutes and your good to go. Plus my powder-coater said its the best surface he ever sprays on.

[Pappy]

Alot depends on the type of powder, the thickness it was applied and the surface of the part....as well as the cure procedure used. (alot of large companies rush the parts through as its a profit over quality issue)

Beadblasting is highly not recommended due to closing the surface substructure of the metal...makes for a smooth surface but the industry advertises too many failures to recommend it. I like a good tooth myself. Parts sent in here that are beadblasted get re-blasted with an 80 grit media after a run at full cure temp to open the pores.

99.9% of what I strip is burnt off. It does add to the cost but when you factor in the cost of standing there blasting, the cost of nasty chemicals, and the damage done to the surface of the part its all about equal. The company I use media blasts most metals with a steel shot/slag product that literally gives me a bare metal finish.

Brian (Columbia Coatings) offers some chemicals but for a small job here or there, the mentioned Aircraft stripper has proven to work the best for most folks in moderate temps.

[chronicsmoke]

Good info, Thanks Pappy