New System in the Works

[elite ATV1]

1 Q-Logic - 12" Dual-Chamber Sealed/Vented Sub Enclosure QLH-1.2512-$174.99

1 Dual - MOSFET 60W x 4 CD/DVD/MP3 Deck w/Fully Motorized 7" Widescreen Touch-Screen LCD XDVD8180-$379.99

1 Rockford Fosgate - Punch 1200W Class AB Bridgeable 2-Channel Amplifier P400-2-$354.99

2 Rockford Fosgate - Punch 12" Dual-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer P2D412-$369.98

Product Total: $1,279.95

this will all come around november/decemberish. how do ya'll think it will sound in my 1989 Beretta GTU?

[czrider263]

Good? lol :devil:

[87250rxrider]

will sound like too much money spent. jk. lol.

should sound real nice with the rockford fosgates.

you should definitely have this stuff insured, b/c there are plenty of people who would rip it right out of your car.

[JOEX]

Originally posted by elite ATV1
how do ya'll think it will sound in my 1989 Beretta GTU?
Depends on what you're listening to:p

[elite ATV1]

bass testing CD's:devil:

[mineralgrey01gt]

decent choice in subs, should sound good. I say go with some Alpine Type R 12's. Sound much cleaner than the rockfords and will give off more pressure inside the car.

[elite ATV1]

Originally posted by mineralgrey01gt
decent choice in subs, should sound good. I say go with some Alpine Type R 12's. Sound much cleaner than the rockfords and will give off more pressure inside the car.

ok ill check em out when i go to the store this weekend.:macho

[whiteboycustom]

ditch the box and have one made to ur car/truck and they can put the correct air space in the box instead of prefabbed box's, if u do get the box before u intall the subs i would get some liquid nails and put it on the seams inside the box just to insure a proper seal

and the amp is a class ab??? not familiar with that, a class d is the amp u need to rock those subs, make sure the amp is one ohm stable just incase u want to bridge the subs the amp wont fry

and DYNOMAT is a good investment and dont forget to upgrade the high end speakers and put a nice 4 channel amp on those to get a nice crisp sound, and dont forget the amp wiring kit, i would suggest a 2gauge wire kit so u dont have power issues and the amp gets enough juice

[72 chevelle ss]

Never had good luck with the Dual Hus myself. Get some MDF and make a box for your subs, prefabbeds aren't worth it.

[elite ATV1]

dose anyone here know how to make boxes??

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by whiteboycustom

and the amp is a class ab??? not familiar with that, a class d is the amp u need to rock those subs, make sure the amp is one ohm stable just incase u want to bridge the subs the amp wont fry

Class AB and Class D have to do with the specific way the transistors are configured to amplify the signal.

Class D is more efficient, but class AB generally produces a better signal. Do you really care about efficiency? The amp is rated at 1200W output, who cares if it pulls in 1500W or 2000W from your car's electrical system.

[HondaEXrider22]

Sounds good.



Now I have a question. FOr a whole new system entirely, is this all all you need? I am in need of a full, front to back, everything system. Can somebody walk me through, coming from not knowing anything about systems?

Head unit - amp - subs - door speakers - wiring

Done?

[elite ATV1]

amp-doors-deck-cd/mp3 player-subs- sub box-amp-wireing kit-crossover. and your all set.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by HondaEXrider22
Now I have a question. FOr a whole new system entirely, is this all all you need? I am in need of a full, front to back, everything system. Can somebody walk me through, coming from not knowing anything about systems?

Head unit - amp - subs - door speakers - wiring

Done?

You may want to add some filtering. You want to send your mids and highs to your door speakers, and your lows to your subwoofer.

Your amp will have a filter on it, so that will send lows only to your subs.

For your mids and highs, you'll either need some sort of high-pass filter, or another amp (with a built-in filter) to power your door speakers. A full crossover is best, but it's also the most expensive. You can get some inline "bass-blockers" for fairly cheap.

Also, you'll want to look into some sort of damping material (like Dynomat) to keep vibration down in your metal panels and doors. Believe me, that stuff makes a big difference.